Jump to content
SAU Community

Help Needed

jangles

By jangles,
in Tasmania

 Share

Recommended Posts

jangles Veteran

jangles

Posted
Posted

Hi,

ive just recently replaced my RB20DET,i bought a long engine

since putting it in the front 3 cylinders wont fire, the coils etc. worked fine on the last engine.

ive replaced coilpacks, plugs, and the coil loom

but there doesnt seem to be anything getting to the front 3,

i have also swapped a front plug to a back coilpack to make sure,

and it proved that there isnt anything to the front 3 plugs....

any ideas on what it could be?

thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235691-help-needed/
Share on other sites
DJRIFT Veteran

DJRIFT

Posted
Posted

seems you have checked over the spark side of things. now try the fuel?

chesk or swap over the injectors. check all the wiring surounding the injectors for broken or dirty plugs and wires.

are you using the old origional loom?

just a few starters.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235691-help-needed/#findComment-4127638
Share on other sites
jangles Veteran

jangles

Posted
  • Author
Posted
seems you have checked over the spark side of things. now try the fuel?

chesk or swap over the injectors. check all the wiring surounding the injectors for broken or dirty plugs and wires.

are you using the old origional loom?

just a few starters.

i was using the original coil pack loom, have replaced it now. am still using original main loom.

i havent swapped the injectors over but there is fuel on the plugs when i check them

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235691-help-needed/#findComment-4128727
Share on other sites
jangles Veteran

jangles

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Have you checked the earths for the coils???

Also check continuity within the loom as i've had that trouble before.

yeh, checked the continuity today, also just brought my meter home from work and tested

the plugs running and there is voltage to the plug....

its really confusing me

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235691-help-needed/#findComment-4129010
Share on other sites
DJRIFT Veteran

DJRIFT

Posted
Posted

if you have checked every coil out and you have put a new loom and plugs in than im pretty sure spark is covered. id still be looking for injection pulse to all the injectors or even be swapping the injectors as they may be shagged.

the reason i mentioned them as the front 3 and back 3 injectors are wired kind of seperate so it stands out to me if you are having trouble with 3 of them. they all share a common ignition feed which is 12v on a white with black trace wire. the loom has this main wire comming through to the front 3 injectors where it splices off into 4. 3 wires to the front injectors and 1 wire to a plug at the front of the engine that then turns pack on its self and splices into 3 agin to the rear 3 injectors. all the injectors are then earthed through the ecu individualy and are white wires with coloured traces.

also have you tried a different ignition modual as i have have them fail on 3 cylenders only before. so maybe the front 3 coil packs arent even being swithched.

to check that they are all being switched. Use a test light not a multimetre. Unplug all the coils. check they all have ignition power to them. Put one end of test light on battery earth and the other in the coil pack plug. (should be the red wire that you have ignition on)

check they all have an earth. Put one end of the test light to battery positive and probe each coil plug. (should be the black wire)

then leaving the test light on battery positive and put the other end in the pin in the coil pack plug left. (should be white wire) now get a friend to crank over the car and the test light should flicker on and off. do it to each coil pack plug and you will then know that all the right spark stuff is happening.

then look at the fuel.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235691-help-needed/#findComment-4129354
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
jangles Veteran

jangles

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Got the 32 running today,

after the loom was fixed i

got it hooked up to diagnostics and everything is working fine, except the O2 sensor is stuffed.

replaced the plugs because of them fouling from running like crap but still has a slight niggle.

i dont believe the o2 sensor i the issue,

any recommendations now?

Edited by jangles
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235691-help-needed/#findComment-4156335
Share on other sites
DJRIFT Veteran

DJRIFT

Posted
Posted
Got the 32 running today,

after the loom was fixed i

got it hooked up to diagnostics and everything is working fine, except the O2 sensor is stuffed.

replaced the plugs because of them fouling from running like crap but still has a slight niggle.

i dont believe the o2 sensor i the issue,

any recommendations now?

so your fault was in the wiring? had it been pinched during engine swaps?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235691-help-needed/#findComment-4156956
Share on other sites
jangles Veteran

jangles

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
only the coil loom, one of the wires had an itermittent fault, only firing some times.

reconnected the problem wire and it all worked fine.

by worked fine, i mean everything is getting told to do the right thing

Edited by jangles
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235691-help-needed/#findComment-4158482
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Yep I will use a guide coat after putting filler, I will do it on the whole panel as I'm a beginner so chances I've made quite a few errors. In that photo, I think that was a low spot, I just for example said to pretend it's flat but I will put filler + guide coat after to assess where I'm at. Yep with that picture, the panel is wet as it rained when I took the photo. But all those scratches are completely smooth, I went over it with 240 grit and can't feel it, even with my nail digging into it. I was legit thinking to buy a 2k can and spray primer to see how it turns out but then thought to myself it's going to be a mess doing it haha. Good mention there. Thanks for all that info I think I know what to do next.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Prior to laying down the primer, you need to make sure the surface is completely level. For example, based on this picture, I strongly suspect that the areas marked in blue are higher then the area marked in green.  If you spray primer over this entire area, then paint and clear it, the finished result will 100% show the low area. It will stick out like dogs balls. Unfortunately the paint won't magically level out the low areas as you lay it down.  Without seeing it in person, I expect that the green area will need to be filled, then use a guide coat and check that the entire repair area is level with a large sanding block.  With this picture, are you saying that even though you can see the scratches, the panel is in fact completely smooth and flat? If this is the case sure you could prep and paint it as it is.     The picture with the paint you described as blistering, it's hard for me to comment on from the photo alone. It looks like the panel is wet? Dunno, looks strange. Does the panel feel as smooth as glass when you run your hand over it? **** Going back to your question again, generally you would only sand the primer if you made a mistake while laying down the primer.  If the panel is prepped properly and you lay the primer down properly, you should not need to sand the primer.  This wouldn't work - Don't prep the panel. Spray primer and see how it turns out. Sand the areas where the issues appear. Spray more primer and see how it turns out. Sand the areas....... Yeah you'd go round and round in circles getting no where. 
    • MR51MN
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By MR51MN · Posted

      That's sick, thanks for that, mine has much the same mods on a 400R. I just don't have the heat exchanger yet.   Might be worth a trip down the M1 to Syndey for a tune.
    • Pac
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By Pac · Posted

      Mate , this is the current mods list Current Mods list (Installed) RV37 Skyline 400R (SKYLINE) | FUJITSUBO  - Cat Back  RV37 Skyline 400R (SKYLINE) | FUJITSUBO  - Front Pipe AMS  - INFINITI Q50/Q60 RED ALPHA COLD AIR INTAKE KIT AMS  - Performance Heat Exchanger Intercooler AMS Alpha Performance Full Race Down Pipes ECUTEK tune form TuneHouse in Sydney .(Just over 2k) The car came with HKS - Power Editor but I had it removed for the full tune. I would say if you are using the car for street diving a proper tune would be better.    
    • MR51MN
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By MR51MN · Posted

      Interested to see any videos of this or on the dyno. Mine currently has HKS secondary cats i am undecided if I want to remove them. What did it set you back to get the tube done? And what mods have you got to get that power? I was looking at a racebox flash tune but maybe a proper tune would be better if these guys are good.
×
×
  • Create New...