Jump to content
SAU Community

I'm Abit Of A Tight Ass, Can I Borrow A 90degree Drill?


Recommended Posts

well i have snapped of an exhaust (turbo-dump pipe) bolt on my r33 gtst while changeing my exhaust from a cat back to a turbo back...... while calling a few of those mobile thread and bolt repairers this seems to be a common problem on r33's and even worse on r32's. Because of my tight assness i didnt go and buy wd40 ($4) and i left my RP7 at ABO BOB's place last saturday. Ive been Quoted $140 from one guy to take out the broken bolt and he should be able to do it without taking the turbo out of the car. Another guy quoted me $180 to take it out and also replace the other bolts with new stronger bolts but i have to take the turbo out of the car for him to do it.

what i want to do is try to dril the bugger out myself without takeing the turbo out (which can be done because luckily its the top bolt that broke) and not paying for someone elses time.

Failing that i'll have to get the $140 guy to do it

so does anybody want to lend me this drill, better if it can drill in reverse???? and i'll throw in the reverse drill bits that i use because i shouldnt need them again.... hopefully

and has anyone done this before????

13mm is pretty strange to use fullstop on a car or a motorcycle..... i have never come across a 13mm head on any of the cars ive fiddled around with and never ever used one on a motorcycle, and i used to work at a motorcycle shop.....

oh well atleast my dads 13mm sockets and spanners are in new condition lol

it should be all good though, i tried to get it out today with different methods (none involving a drill coz i dont have the drill) and the bastard wont budge.... i have bitten the bullet and am getting an overpriced pro to do it for me..... also i'll get an oil change at the local mechanics and while hes got it jacked up or on a hoist i'll bolt up the exhaust at the same time.....

For intrests sake the boys at MIDAS in castle hill industrial were very helpful, gave me a few tips and even gave me high tensile replacement bolts with springs and washers (which i recon should have been on the car anyway from nissan) for free which was good of them... alternative was wait for nissan to send up 4 bolts from victoria....

this could cost you a total of $20 if your car is driveable, it will still probably be driveable without the exhaust - only very loud and you risk getting reamed by a copper who knows his emissions laws.

take it to an exhaust place and get them to WELD on a nut to the broken bolt. when thats done, drench it in WD40 and use a normal socket set to unbolt it.

easy done, its a very common problem especially on the exhaust manifold studs on the head. this is what we do to get them out.

thanks mitch

its a 13mm head not sure bout thread though

sorry Tom totally slipped my mind.

this could cost you a total of $20 if your car is driveable, it will still probably be driveable without the exhaust - only very loud and you risk getting reamed by a copper who knows his emissions laws.

take it to an exhaust place and get them to WELD on a nut to the broken bolt. when thats done, drench it in WD40 and use a normal socket set to unbolt it.

easy done, its a very common problem especially on the exhaust manifold studs on the head. this is what we do to get them out.

should have told you this as well this is what we did to get one of the studs out. if the thread is fine and you can get 2 nuts on it then you can do the above no need to weld.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I have offset Nismo brackets so the fact the gktechs can pivot is less important to me. I have 170mm JIC arms with bushings - but they provide no adjustment and I'm not sure whiteline eccentric bushings will fit them (I don't want to ruin the bushings currently in them to find out). Ideally I want something with bushings + adjustment; hence why I'd like to find a pair of these. Unfortunately they aren't easy to find.
    • @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
    • You miss spelled bearings...
    • Just putting it out there, that's a decent list. You would be better off *not* doing *any* of that and buying someone else's modded car. Like mine. Or anybody else's. Yes it's lotto dependent and all this and that but that 70K (remember, double your guesses) could go elsewhere. Keep it stock, save your money, go lowball @Dose Pipe Sutututu :p
    • Does not mean what you think it means. The continual rising coefficient is the coefficient of friction that continues to rise with increasing temperature. Not "rising during a single stop", except inasmuch as the brakes should get hotter during a single stop. The RR would not be the best choice for a streeter. Yeah....no it's not. JAX would rummage around in the "shit pads we use for all shitboxen that come in here" and install those.
×
×
  • Create New...