Jump to content
SAU Community

I'm Abit Of A Tight Ass, Can I Borrow A 90degree Drill?


Recommended Posts

well i have snapped of an exhaust (turbo-dump pipe) bolt on my r33 gtst while changeing my exhaust from a cat back to a turbo back...... while calling a few of those mobile thread and bolt repairers this seems to be a common problem on r33's and even worse on r32's. Because of my tight assness i didnt go and buy wd40 ($4) and i left my RP7 at ABO BOB's place last saturday. Ive been Quoted $140 from one guy to take out the broken bolt and he should be able to do it without taking the turbo out of the car. Another guy quoted me $180 to take it out and also replace the other bolts with new stronger bolts but i have to take the turbo out of the car for him to do it.

what i want to do is try to dril the bugger out myself without takeing the turbo out (which can be done because luckily its the top bolt that broke) and not paying for someone elses time.

Failing that i'll have to get the $140 guy to do it

so does anybody want to lend me this drill, better if it can drill in reverse???? and i'll throw in the reverse drill bits that i use because i shouldnt need them again.... hopefully

and has anyone done this before????

13mm is pretty strange to use fullstop on a car or a motorcycle..... i have never come across a 13mm head on any of the cars ive fiddled around with and never ever used one on a motorcycle, and i used to work at a motorcycle shop.....

oh well atleast my dads 13mm sockets and spanners are in new condition lol

it should be all good though, i tried to get it out today with different methods (none involving a drill coz i dont have the drill) and the bastard wont budge.... i have bitten the bullet and am getting an overpriced pro to do it for me..... also i'll get an oil change at the local mechanics and while hes got it jacked up or on a hoist i'll bolt up the exhaust at the same time.....

For intrests sake the boys at MIDAS in castle hill industrial were very helpful, gave me a few tips and even gave me high tensile replacement bolts with springs and washers (which i recon should have been on the car anyway from nissan) for free which was good of them... alternative was wait for nissan to send up 4 bolts from victoria....

this could cost you a total of $20 if your car is driveable, it will still probably be driveable without the exhaust - only very loud and you risk getting reamed by a copper who knows his emissions laws.

take it to an exhaust place and get them to WELD on a nut to the broken bolt. when thats done, drench it in WD40 and use a normal socket set to unbolt it.

easy done, its a very common problem especially on the exhaust manifold studs on the head. this is what we do to get them out.

thanks mitch

its a 13mm head not sure bout thread though

sorry Tom totally slipped my mind.

this could cost you a total of $20 if your car is driveable, it will still probably be driveable without the exhaust - only very loud and you risk getting reamed by a copper who knows his emissions laws.

take it to an exhaust place and get them to WELD on a nut to the broken bolt. when thats done, drench it in WD40 and use a normal socket set to unbolt it.

easy done, its a very common problem especially on the exhaust manifold studs on the head. this is what we do to get them out.

should have told you this as well this is what we did to get one of the studs out. if the thread is fine and you can get 2 nuts on it then you can do the above no need to weld.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
×
×
  • Create New...