Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, just after some info on short shift kits for the R33....

Just seeing what brands you guys are using your experience with them, Im thinking about getting a C's short shift from Atomicbomberman (30% shorter) over the 10% shorter nismo item... Comments appreciated,

Lepperfish... :burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23596-short-shift-kits/
Share on other sites

i've got one... not sure what brand but if i have a 25 box, it's VERY short and it's harder on the box i reckon.

You have to be precise with your shifts or they can crunch on not go into gear...

maybe redline oil might fix mine?

but ATM it's rough, but i'm used to it now. Plus my box is well used, that probably doesn't help.

PM dj_lethal... he just got one in his 33. Was around the same tightness as my box, but i think mine it a big tighter

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23596-short-shift-kits/#findComment-505509
Share on other sites

i got a short shifter with the car - never compared it to a non-short shifted one.

I think the throw is not all THAT short actually. I think mine might be a Nismo one if it is only 10% shorter

What other brands of short shifters are available in Japan (so I can narrow down the brands)? The only ones i hear thrown up around here are the C's and the Nismo ones.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23596-short-shift-kits/#findComment-505596
Share on other sites

I've a C's one in for a long time now....wouldn't be without it .By comparrison the normal shift feels really long and sloppy. Ihave heard that you need to check if you'r getting Nismo.... there is a 10% and a 30%.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23596-short-shift-kits/#findComment-505989
Share on other sites

i got one with my car and its ALOT shorter than all the other skyline box's ive had a go on so it must be the 30% one. its alot nicer to drive and gives the car a much nicer feel as the gearing is precise and there is no play/sloppyness.

also makes it easier to slam through the gears quickly.

Shaun

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23596-short-shift-kits/#findComment-507465
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is lower price now given apparently nobody wants these or needs them. It's 550 but if someone sees it on SAU and wants to make an offer, please do so.
    • LS is a good motor, but it hurts my soul when I see it in a RB. Guess it fixes the oiling issues lol.
    • I'm confused. Does this qualify as "Gregging" or are you somehow avoiding the Gregging?
    • More assembly going on, with all sorts of "bolt right on bro" scenarios going on here. Smartly, PTV clearance was checked. And I say smartly because it turns out that the intake was 0.009" from piston meeting valve. This is 0.23mm. This is very not okay. A fast meeting was facilitated between engine builder in Australia and engine builder in the USA which was actually incredibly helpful and constructive actually, various ideas thrown around to get around this issue including: 1) Retard the cam timing which would have brought the exhaust valve closer to meeting piston (it was 0.065") which was uncomfortably close to begin with, and change the cam profile making it 'laggier' 2) Much larger head gaskets which would reduce compression, but half the point of this was to increase compression. 3) New set of pistons ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$) 4) All of the above 5) Get ghetto The concept is you get sticky sandpaper and stick it back to a valve, slightly larger than the valve you/I'm using, like say from a LS3/rectangle port head. You now have a very super advanced flycutting tool to modify your pistons in your block. Then you install it in your head, and attach the other end of the head to a drill. Then you just replicate your valve smashing into a piston with your spinning drill.   This is the result. Repeat many times. It is strongly recommended you have some kind of fixed stop when doing this for extremely obvious reasons because if you press too hard then you're well into apocalyptic repercussion land. The minimum clearance on the intake valve is now 0.075" this is still in the "Too close to be really comfortable" and into "It should be fine" land. Supposedly in the real world the clearances will be slightly bigger. Guess this is what happens when people push envelopes for N/A engines instead of adding boost! Time to move onto the new, upgraded, higher ratio roller rockers from Yellaterra, all tapped and threaded with a stronger bolt for better stability. Very nice. Lets see how they fit. For f**ks sake. Time to bring the grinder out for these aftermarket, machined and CNC'd heads. Looks like the new, beefier rocker from YellaTerra has gone from Bolt on part to "Bolt on part". Well, lets see how this bolt on crank scraper and windage tray goes then, shall we? There actually is more clearance than they specify for this thing, but seeing it all move as you check it is terrifying when you see it all so very very very very nearly hit things. But after all, this is what the item is designed to do after all and actually did bolt on perfectly and have enough clearance to everything and some very clear and direct instructions. So +1 to Improved Racing I suppose. As above with the windage tray on. Photo of breaker bar wonkiness for added lols. Next up: Oil pump/front cover/water pump/sump and then it's time to actually install the heads, pushrods, head bolts, valve cover gaskets and such is all there and ready to go. (except the oil pump bolts which were previously longer for more clearance with the previously perfectly installed double row timing chain). There's definitely a sense that someone other than us has been here before and done everything perfectly, or at least considered it and came up with working solutions. Perhaps the previous cam was 6deg advanced to avoid PTV issues with the milled stock heads? In any case when I attempt to sell this stuff the buyers are going to be very directly informed.
    • my catch can is pretty easy to empty but it overflows due to the blowby/crank case pressure etc. max I have drained is ~600ml even with a ~2.3L capacity. So it is not just about having to drain it out its the mess it makes down the firewall and under the car and rear passenger tyre from the overflow oil being blasted by screamer + air in general. Ending up on the ground cleaning the oil up and having oil on your arms when everyone else can chill and watch the other sessions gets old fast
×
×
  • Create New...