Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey this might seem like a stupid question but I wanna do it right so thats why im asking opinions.

I just bought a new pulse battery...Its pretty decent and has brass terminals that screw up and down.

Should I cut off my metal connectors on my positive and negative wires and wrap the wires under and around the brass terminals or should I just put the connectors straight over the brass terminals. Not sure about the 2nd option as my connectors are too big for the brass terminals. Any suggestions please??????

Thanks in advance

Edited by FSTR32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236069-battery-terminal-dilema/
Share on other sites

put the proper connectors on, if you try and do it the dodgy way then it will cause you grief in the long run, with your connectors being too big, how much bigger are they? if its only a little bit then it'll be ok, if its loads bigger then read first part of message :)

you should be able to put the stock ones on...just stretch them open abit till they fit. worked for me.
He said the the clamps are too big for the battery. So no need to stretch them!

FSTR32 - you should just get a battery with the correct sized posts - problem solved!

Problem solved. Bought some smaller battery connectors from autobarn, removed old connectors, stripped back wire and welded wire to new connectors. Probably should have done that first before I posted but I had a mental blank as to how to approach it. cheers for advice

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, just take the other one off too 
    • Oh yeah forgot to also mention need to also unplug the IACV as well. Thanks for the reminder @MBS206 Unplugging the TPS takes it out of closed loop so you're able to screw down the IACV without the ECU trying to add/subtract timing to maintain the idle (not sure PowerFC can even do this, but Nistune and the OEM definitely does)
    • For sale is my 1999 Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T, tuned to 234 kW / 313 hp. I've had the car for a few years as my daily driver. The car is original (as far as Skylines go), with only a few minor upgrades to enhance performance and driving experience, as typical for such a car of its age. Overall, it is in great condition with no body rust, thanks to its earlier import date. It features a top-notch security system (not literally, but it's great!) with remote start and still functional 4-wheel steering via HICAS. It comes with several performance and handling upgrades, including:     Hypergear 450HP Turbocharger running 17 PSI boost, installed mid-2021 by Jaustech     550cc injectors     Nistune ECU     Front-Mount Return-Flow Intercooler     X-Force Stainless Steel Exhaust     Upgraded engine mounts     Bottom end bearings replaced     BC Coilovers     Lenso DR1 rims     Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE003 TL 245/40R18 97W tires, fitted early 2023 The interior is mostly stock, with a few additions:     Viper Satellite Tracking System with remote start     Bluetooth Double-Din Touchscreen Head Unit     Steering wheel cover Cons:     A few paint imperfections here and there     Driver’s seat shows more wear than the others. It's not torn at all, but I've added a seat cover to protect its condition. I also have a CarVX Vehicle History report available for serious buyers, so you don’t need to purchase it yourself. Price: $26,000 ONO.
    • I've had two suzukis in the past have an extremely hard time turning over and not starting after sitting for a few weeks. Ended up the alternator would seize up causing the starter to force. Same issue both times.  Maybe they're sourcing their alternators from the same place...
×
×
  • Create New...