Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well, I blew the rear wheel on my turbo over the weekend.

I have a replacement coming to get the car running again, but now I'm considering upgrading it.

Atm I'm thinking HKS GT-RS.

Just wondering what you guys think??

I have all the supporting mods, bar Z32 and injectors (they will be on the list if I go down this path)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236098-considerations/
Share on other sites

Hey Man, so sorry to see that happen!

Was waiting for this post though :lol:

I think you should go for it, but it isn't coming out of my pocket.

It is such a clean car man and if the flutter comming off has been your biggest problem, you are doing pretty well! :)

P.S. I just put a stock ECU in (was mines) and it is a completly different car... I am loving it! Can't wait for more than 350kms from a tank! :down:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236098-considerations/#findComment-4136633
Share on other sites

Yeah I was pretty cut lol, not in the fact that I didnt think it could happen, was just really looking forward to the drive home!!

What do you reckon 555cc or 740cc??

Thats awesome about the improvement of the ecu change over!! Do you reckon it was tuned for a bigger turbo??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236098-considerations/#findComment-4137120
Share on other sites

that phat man is almost right... i think it was more so confused, pinging it's head off, tuned for higher octane fuel etc!

glad that is gone and I have been driving it like a softy in that time since it was running so poorly!

can't really help you on the injector size, Sam will be able to assist there... have you decided what you are going to do?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236098-considerations/#findComment-4141576
Share on other sites

well what about looking into a hks 2530 or even 2535 they good turbo fast spool up on the rb25 they are an old style type of turbo but it depends what are you are gaining for in power out put, as for injector upgraid i would think to be on the safe side go for 720cc sards for that matter but do also if you have not allready done so upgrade the fuel pump and maybe also power fc never go a stray something to also think about

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236098-considerations/#findComment-4142414
Share on other sites

Thanks for the input Mich, know where you can get one of those kits?? and costs?

As part of the normal mod's before looking at the turbo upgrade I have fuel pump and powerfc. Was trying to get as much as I could out of the standard turbo, but since having lost the rear wheel out the exhaust, I have lost faith in their ability LOL

Sam's said the 555's will be more than enough for the power.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236098-considerations/#findComment-4142474
Share on other sites

thought i mite give u my 2c on injector size, I have a standard RB25det, Z32 afm, pwr fc, Vg30 hi flo 040 fuel pump, and went for the 555cc injectors, runs 15lbs all day every day, has 250rwkw, this is not pushing the limits, 555cc handle the job nicely with more room to move if need be. was going to go bigger but not needed, what are u looking at kicking out power wise?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236098-considerations/#findComment-4145394
Share on other sites

Well I have looked at the 2835 ProS Woolls, but I cant justify the extra cost for it, when I should be able to get that sort of power fron the GT-RS. Even if its a little less power I'm not going to be worried.

I dont intend to open the engine up and rebuild it, so I'm not going to get the most out of the 2835 (but I wasnt intending to upgrade the turbo either :D lol)

Im hoping that I can get some where around 250kw, but I really after a solid, responsive setup. We'll see what happens!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236098-considerations/#findComment-4147243
Share on other sites

hey stryder, for what its worth imo for 250kws going all out on gt-rs would be delightful, if you have deep pockets :cool:

i however don't so a cheaper but still far capable option would be T517z's with 8cm rear housing to suit your quick spooling lust. also available in the 10cm rear too which is not a "laggy" turbo by any means.

if you were going to go nismo 555 you may find the price between them and sard 720 perilously close..just another something for you to consider i guess.

what is your car doing at the moment fuel pump wise.?

best of luck anyway dude :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236098-considerations/#findComment-4161784
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...