Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After reading few more posts regarding this problem. Ive decided to turf out my $30 pod, possibily a oiled one and going back to the stock air box. Im certain that by going back to the stock air box our problem will disapear due to the air resude on the afm clogging our boost levels, maybe. Anyone given it a go please post results.

If not i need to take it to someone for a timing adjustment as ive heard advance it to 15+ and it should disappear.

otherwise coils packs next week, damn.

will post results.

cheers

ak

  • Replies 72
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Max GT its your computer (ECU) Auto skylines have a different and more conservative program and a link to the auto trans computer that will retard ignition timing sooner than a manual and perform a fuel cut sooner at higher boost levels. This has been a big problem for me for 12 months! Anyway I bit the bullet and tried a modified manual computer.... and YEAH BABY YEAH!! now i'm running 1 bar boost and have to be careful changing to second because there is no rev cut now so savage gear changes are all the go. Also if your going to try this, then make sure to get a dyno tune afterwards to be sure.

Strich9ine i don't know if this helps buddy but if your car is a manual and a series 2 and you want some split fire coil packs then drop J-SPEC a line. [email protected] They have a new set collecting dust in the office! it also wouldn't hurt to try a mates ECU. the ecu in mine caused all sorts of problems in the previous car and we tried every thing to no avail just to find that it was the ECU. Hope this helps guys. Have a nice day. :(

well im not sure about that website above but im gona buy some injector cleaner whatever is expensive and see what happens maybe a clogged injector could be the cause but most likely its the coils.

does anyone know where the vvt thing is?

cheers

ak

ive got a gts pillarless r31, runin the niccs rb20det and im havin the same prob! as son as i put the new 3 inche exhaust form turbo , i was get missfires at about 4-6 grand, very anoying at times! ill try cleaning injectors, getin a full tune up, and adjustment of the afm, hopefuly i fix the prob =/

sky^rkt

Chances are that your ECU is responsible for the missfire, when you fitted the exhaust you removed a restriction from your engine allowing it to boost more, the factory ECU could be retarding your timing and or cutting your fuel, you may also find the problem to be more pronounced when the air is cold in the morning or at night. Are you still running stock boost?

Well, after your tune you'll have more of an idea of what it isn't. these things are usually not fixed easily, the more information you can give about the conditions when the missfire happens the better. Also, nissans run different parameters when the engine is cold, this is to protect the engine. you should avoid caning until the temp gauge reaches normal operating temperature. I found i had less missfiring problems when the engine was cold but when the engine warmed up and the air was cold outside misfiring was more pronounced. Good luck

yeh, i was told just to try it when it was cold to see if it wuld happen and it didnt, i always let the car warm up to opertating temp, probably in the next week or so ill get a full service of everythign and see what hapens form there, i appreciate the help guys thanx heaps!

My nics has a simular problem it tends to misfire & be laggy while cruising when cold, as soon as the motor warms up and the temp needle hits the fist line on the gauge it takes off and is fine. I have, changed ECU temp censor, O2 Sensor, just had the AFM Calibrated wich fixed my over fueling problem as some one had dicked with it and was way out. I have just replaced my ECU and it seems to not be laggy when cold but splutters a bit more when cold but can put that down to still learning. this has been a quest over the last 12 months and will not be happy until it purs.

Well guys told you i would keep you posted on the remedy for our poping in RB25s. Ive been told possible problems coils, ignitor module, pod etc. Well i went to autobarn in my area(sunshine), ask the guy if he had a really good injector cleaner thinking i might have an injector problem. Well he said try Pro Strength Octane Booster (NULON) for $20. The reason he told me was it cleans the bad deposits on the injectors, increases performances and horsepower. Well once the octane boost kicked in any car on the road will have no chance. It holds boost and keeps on boosting.

Hope it fixes your guys problem, fixed mine; touch wood.

Cheers

AK

Another interesting point is that japanese fuel is better octane than any aussie fuel, so an octane booster may fix the problem but if it comes back next tank of fuel then altering the timing, as has been suggested, would be a better long term solution.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...