Jump to content
SAU Community

Gt2530 Oil/water Lines

Rekin

By Rekin,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Rekin Grand Master

Rekin

Posted
Posted

Hey,

Ill be installing a GT2530 soon into my r32 but the turbo doesnt come with any water/oil lines or drain pipe.

Is it possible to use the stock lines/drain pipe etc from the standard rb20 turbo?

Is this advised, or should I get some new lines made up by Pirtek/Enzed?

If its better to get new lines, how exactly do i order a set for my car and the turbo?

Would they happen to have any information on the r32, and all i would need to bring is the 2530 for them to measure up the banjo bolts etc?

I have no clue on how to do this, any help would be awesome :O

Thanks

Patrick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236172-gt2530-oilwater-lines/
Share on other sites
Rekin Grand Master

Rekin

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The 2530 should go straight onto the stock stuff without a problem

Stock lines are the best thing for the job, strong and last the distance.

^^ eat that patrick!

haha awesome, thanks for clarifying that Ash :O

Next time i should learn to trust you more Abu, but then again you do own a r33 <3

Rekin Grand Master

Rekin

Posted
  • Author
Posted
lol i take it this carried over from the wasteland? :yes:

hehe over msn, but i prefer to have it in writing on sau as its easier to point the finger if it doesnt fit :O

Although being admin/mod you can always delete your response ;)

abu Grand Master

abu

Posted
Posted

Blame Ash if it doesn't fit, I just agreed with him :O

I can't be liable for MSN conversations!!

but seriously it should all bolt up fine, if your using the stock oil drain from you turbo you won't even need a new return hose but maybe change it anyways as they crack sometimes when removing

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Not fail and fail at all.

They are strong, and durable. As long as you dont go bending them (why on earth you'd bend metal piping like that logically is beyond me)

After market ones are a waste of money. Ive had them before but only because i had too. If there was a way to use stock metal lines, i'd have done that no question

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

Are you people sure that the std R32 oil and water lines are straight fit for a Garrett ball bearing turbo ?

All Garrett GT25 based ball bearing turbos (GT2554R - GT3582R) use GT25 sized unions from memory , I thought the Hitachi's used on RB20 and RB25's were different - larger water fittings like T3 water cooled eg VLT T3 .

The thing is that these GT25 based BB cartridges are more compact in the bearing housing than Hitachi's so as you would expect they tend to use smaller unions .

You may want to search for pics of plumbing bits HKS supplied if you bought their GT2530 turbo as a bolt on "kit" .

A bit of homework here saves frustration later , cheers A .

Rekin Grand Master

Rekin

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hmmm well this has turned around quickly.

Good thing the turbo is still on its way from japan :banana:

So if i need new water/oil lines, would a kit like this suit the car+turbo?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=150296969010

6af6_1.JPG

  • 2 weeks later...
Dongaz Rookie

Dongaz

Posted
Posted (edited)

I had a rb20 turbo and have now got a hks gt2540 and they are different fittings all round. The oil drain has smaller bolt flange, the water lines are the same size on each side for the inlet and outlet. The oil feed is like a 14mm. They are BSP fittings so getting them from enzed and the like are good but they won't have anything for the oil drain.

A kit like you have shown would be good but if you are using a "GT25,28" turbo then you want that kind of kit. Not the T3 T4 turbo fitting kit. Not sure if they are the same or not but I would probably say no.

Looking at the kit that same group from ebay have for the T25 t28 turbo they dont have a oil drain flange for the turbo so i dont know how they expect you to fit that.

Just remember Garrett turbos have different fittings.

Just look around. I spent prob $150 on all my lines and fittings. I didnt go the whole bling bling factor of the braided line as its not really that good. I got Blue R9 High Temp Hose. A bit cheaper than braided but entirely up to the person.

Good luck

Edited by Dongaz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wazmond
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Wazmond · Posted

      Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • Wazmond
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Wazmond · Posted

      So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • tsuokun
      Lets play a game - What is causing my oil consumption?

      By tsuokun · Posted

      Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...