Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Keep us updated with your thoughts as they wear in.

I bought a set of brand new Bridgestone Adrenalin RE001s for my R33 GT-R in 255/45 ZR17. That's one at each corner on standard R33 GT-R wheels, with TEIN coilovers.

That was a good few months ago. These tyres replaced Dunlop Direzzas which were on the wheels prior (which were basically bald). Clearly I lost a fair bit of outright grip going to the Adrenalins and certainly a lot of steering response (with the Direzzas nearly bald, steering was on the verge of darty, particularly over bumps and ridges when the car would tramline terribly).

So at first the Adrenalins made me think they were a bit soft and squidgy, despite running around 37-38 psi cold pressure as I usually do. After a little bit of 'spirited driving' here and there I think they've worn in nicely now (either that or the psychological 'novelty' of the tyres has worn off and I've adapted my driving style) and they seem pretty well keyed into the road. In the wet they also seem competent. I have probably driven the car about 6-7 tenths since getting these tyres in the dry, and maybe only 3/10ths in the wet (haven't driven the car much lately) but in those conditions I'm quite happy with them.

I'll soon be getting some 18"x 10" GT-Cs delivered, which I'll need new rubber for, and I'd be happy to go Adrenalin's on those too, but I'll be reading up some more on these and other forums to see what alternatives out there.

Matt

I noticed you said 255/45ZR17. I tried to get these but they don't make them....well they weren't in the catalogue or listed on the website and the dealer said he couldn't get them either. I had to go 255/40ZR17.

I have Adrenalins on my car now.

255/40/17 rear

235/45/17 front

250rwkw, they are better in grip than the 3000A's i had when they were new (XR6 tyre, old gen). And i must admit the 3000A's were amazing considering in 16's they cost me $150ea new in what, '03 :D

The RE001's hold perfectly almost everytime in the dry with full throttle. Wet is surprisingly decent as well, can still get a fair amount of power down before its arguing. I haven't dont any big launches yet to see how they perform off the mark, however rolling starts from 20km/h and WOT are no problem.

Been on several hard twisty runs now also, although im not pushing them as hard as i could as my brakes aren't upto the task yet (warped rotors i need to fix)

So in saying that... They respond really well for a dedicated street tyre... cant ask for much more than that considering the price i paid.

FYI - im also running extra camber and nothing stock suspension wise and so on also which aids for the hill runs and i dont really notice much understeer. So overall very very happy

I'm happy to take your word for it ;)

Good to hear good experiences with these tyres :)

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I noticed you said 255/45ZR17. I tried to get these but they don't make them....well they weren't in the catalogue or listed on the website and the dealer said he couldn't get them either. I had to go 255/40ZR17.

Good to hear good experiences with these tyres :laugh:

Sorry about that, they must be 40 aspect and not 45. I was also looking at the brochure yesterday and it didn't havt 45 listed. So mine would be exactly the same as yours then...

Might be a problem for me as the only ones in the dimensions close to what I want are 265/35 18 (for my new rims) which means the tyre sidewall will be 92.75mm. The standard tyre for the R33 GT-R on stock 17"s is 245/45 17, or 110.25mm sidewall height. Currently I'm at 255/40 17 or 102mm, so going for 265/35 is going to make the rolling diameter somewhat lower; nearly 20mm less which to me seems signficant. I suppose that as long as all four wheels are the same dimension for the ATTESA-ETS she'll be right.... :merli:

  • 2 months later...

Sorry to dig up an old thread but I just got rid of my jap tyres for some Adrenalins on the GTR. I replaced 2 front Bridgestone Playz 245/45/17 and 2 rear Bridgestone Potenza GIII (bald) 245/45/17. I got the adrenalins in 235/45/17 as they are not that much narrower than the 245 in width and they were about $200 cheaper per tyre. Do you guys know we get 2 types of Adrenalin in AUS... we get the Oz made ones and the slightly more expensive Jap made ones. I ended up with the Jap ones for $230 each and gotta say I am more then happy with them. ON MY Mazda Familia I have driven on Kuhmo ecsta 711 (shite), Falken 752 (not bad), Good year Eagle GSD3 (excellent), Yokohama S-Drive (excellent) and I can say that the adrenalins are much better tyres than all of them except the s-drive which they are about on a par with.

The tyres that were removed from the front (Playz) are very similar in tread design to the RE001 and they were an awesome tyre, not once did I get any slip from them, where ever I pointed the car it went there. The tyres are about 1000kms old now so will give an update as they wear in a bit more which won't take too long seeing as I do 500km a week just driving to and from work!

On a side note... One thing I will never compromise on is tyres. They are what holds you on the road, although I went the cheaper size I only did this because the difference in width was marginal so not really a compromise IMO plus I saved myself an extra $800!

  • 3 weeks later...

I found it strange my tyres let go on a good downpouring of rain. The road was the rough bituman, and going around a moderately long U bend on a range road. Slipped out quite easily, and I wasn't exactly going fast. Probably a faster than i should've been going, but not fast in my books.

I was doubting the wet performance a bit myself, they feel very confident on the freeway but easy to slip at other times. Interesting that others have found the same thing maybe it's not just me.

Overall a bloody good tyre for the price. And they're still very safe in the wet I just would have liked a bit more grip :P

  • 3 weeks later...

I've got T1R's all round (18's) and need to replace the rears. If the RE001's are cheaper I'll probably give them a go and also post my thoughts here. I've been very happy with the T1Rs, but wouldn't mind something with more bang for buck.

I've got T1R's all round (18's) and need to replace the rears. If the RE001's are cheaper I'll probably give them a go and also post my thoughts here. I've been very happy with the T1Rs, but wouldn't mind something with more bang for buck.

It will be interesting to see what you think of them. Just remember when you compare them that your going from a worn set to a new set so it might feel better off the bat (bar the new tyre squishy feeling). So let them break in for a bit then you'll see their true light.

Let us know how you go :laugh:

  • 2 months later...

Not to bring up a old thread but Im getting some new tyres Friday

I will be replacing the fronts with the Toyo T1R which were originally Bridgestone RE001. So I will see how these go on the fronts to compare the two tires.

I will be putting my 60% RE001s on the rear and wearing them out over the next 5 - 10 000km then putting some T1Rs on the rear also and will compare the two tires. (although the RE001s are only at 60% im pretty sure Ill get a fair evaluations of what they are like as a rear tyre.)

we are still getting tearing from the adrenalins on cars over 270rwkw.... they are great but are separating at the joins. 6 or 7 sets now.... :D

is that with off road driving (drifting, time attack) or with heavy street use? Im guessing track work?

I will be replacing the fronts with the Toyo T1R which were originally Bridgestone RE001. So I will see how these go on the fronts to compare the two tires.

The worst part about changing tyres I have found is tyres that feel great when they're new and aftera couple of heat cycles harden up and feel like your old tyres despite being more expensive and having more tread.

Still finding the RE001's will be very slippery on some road surfaces but it also has to do with tyre temperature, once warmed up they seem to grip better but I will have to undertake more... er.... qualitative studies :D

The worst part about changing tyres I have found is tyres that feel great when they're new and aftera couple of heat cycles harden up and feel like your old tyres despite being more expensive and having more tread.

Still finding the RE001's will be very slippery on some road surfaces but it also has to do with tyre temperature, once warmed up they seem to grip better but I will have to undertake more... er.... qualitative studies >_<

yeah, I must say my initial impressions of the T1R are good, they are impressive thats for sure and I would say their performance is right up there with the Adrenalins.

I haven't had the time on the road that I have had with the bridgestones but i would say their performance from what ive experienced to be much of a muchness. For a street car I don't think you will be disapointed with either tyre.

While i will post up more when i get some more time with the toyos for now Id advise you take the cheapest one. Ring around and see who can get your the RE001s or the T1Rs the cheapest and take those ones.

  • 2 weeks later...
we are still getting tearing from the adrenalins on cars over 270rwkw.... they are great but are separating at the joins. 6 or 7 sets now.... :(

Are they the Jap made ones or the slightly cheaper Aussie made ones??

  • 2 years later...

I have RE001's on my GTS-R, 280rwkw RWD - you can read my post on page 1 for more details.

One of the best tyre for the dollar in the wet that's ever been on it. I've never done burnouts on them etc. I've found in the past doing burnouts on street tyres can make them go "off" and be uttery useless.

If you don't have traction I'd look @ other things like suspenion, diff etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...