Definitive Guide To Building 300-330awkw Gt-r

[No Crust Racing]

I know that this topic has been partial covered on many occasions across a myriad of posts, believe me I've searched and done plenty of reading.

My goal will be 300-330awkw's (figure is due to seeming expectancy of RB26 bottom end) in a late model R33 or R34 GT-R(that will depend on market price at the time and inherent strength of the platforms - no I do not have the car just yet but I've owned a GT-R before and have clear intentions of going back when my financial focus can be shifted from housing and building capital).

The car will be street registered but will not be daily driven. It will occassionally see the track but be more likely to see cruises and GT-R car club type events. Response is an important factor as my intention is to make the power in question on standard internals, don't flame yet keep reading, and don't want to be seeing rev's beyond 7 - 7.5k on a regular basis to ensure a happy bottom end.

Now for my list of questions.

- On average, what are people finding the limit of the RB26 bottom end is? I've read of people making up to the 330 or so awkw mark but how long have those engines lasted. I know this is a question of many factors but for those of you doing it on the standard bottom end who have had failures or are still running strong I want to hear from you. Anyone else can chip in too, just be constructive

- Turbo options for this power seem to boil down to N1's, GT-SS's or 2530's (or the garret equivalent of each which is GT2860R-5 and -7 I think? Correct me if this is wrong). Will 2530's be wasted in this application? Will GT-SS's/N1's be pushed too hard if 320-330awkw's is achieved? The consensus seems to be 2530's spool a touch later but are a stronger turbo if you really want more power down the track whereas the GT-SS's/N1's have better response but run out of puff quicker.

- If 320-330awkw's is achievable on the standard bottom end with reliability, what parts will be required beyond what I've listed? Comments welcome as I'm not rock solid on this.

- Full exhaust, min 3" from turbo's right back to rear end. Much gain from 4" at this power?

- Injectors, 600's? 700s?

- Airbox is fine with panel filter (prefer this option for safety unless there is huge gains to be made from pods but then I'll build/get an enclosure)

- Turbo's

- Standard cooler is fine but getting to it's limit at this power?

- Are coil packs required?

- Boost controller

- Full ECU, most of you guys run PFC's, anything else worth going for?

- Excellent tuning - Happy to go to Melb (3hrs for me) for this and see Ben at Race Pace

- Cam gears, not required from what I know but useful

- Fuel Pump or Reg or both?

- Oil cooler not required but good for the standard bottom end.

- Upgraded oil pump required?

- Sump baffle or oil control required?

I know some of this is owner opinion and will come down to suiting the car to the driver preferences but I'm interested to iron out as much of this as possible and if necessary we can sticky the whole thing for future readers.

I've been around a while and have contributed plenty to the forums while I had my R33's so I'm hoping you guys aren't gonna just say 'search it'. I'm looking for some solid informed opinions with the aim of helping out a lot of other guys who have the same questions.

I've out for the evening but will check in tomorrow morning to see all the helpful and friendly responses

Cheers

[33drifter]

hey mate,

i dont own a gtr myself so i could be wrong but these are some things i would consider.

I would run something other than a PFC as you will be passing their effective power range, go for something that requires full mapping (no AFM)

i would also run an aftermarket FMIC and oil Cooler to be safe, i would think that coil packs are essential, and at that power you may need to upgrade your clutch.

[R31Nismoid]

ill number em, makes it easier

1. 300-330rwkw - ok with factory bottom end, just ensure 1ltr over fill the sump if you do a track day

2. GT-SS/Garrett -7's, the ONLY choice for 300-330rwkw. 2530/-5's are too big for that goal, why have added lag if you don't need it?

3.

- 3.5" would be better, 4" ok too.

- 550s are ok, so anything about that

- fine

- -7's

- cooler fine

- coils only if yours are stuffed

- EBC - yes

- PFC is perfectly fine

- Well, you've picked one of the best workshops, so its worth the 3hr drive 110%

- Cam gears are required for best midrange

- Stock reg will be fine, you might need to update pump

- If you do track days, oil cooler mandatory

- For 330rwkw, not really on a stock motor, stock oil pump is fine for a unprepped motor

- No, refer to overfill above

[R31Nismoid]

I would run something other than a PFC as you will be passing their effective power range

totally wrong.

[Bakes]

Do the HKS GTSS or Garrett -7s give a noticeable difference in terms of torque over the stock GTR turbos?

ie: Are they worth the 3K?

[R31Nismoid]

Well they aren't the same as stock turbos.

They flow more, and hence you can make 330rwkw, and more torque obviously

12psi im making 250rwkw. GTR turbos usually require 1bar to do that

[paulr33]

the garretts are 0.60 a/r front and 0.64 a/r rear vs stock which is 0.42 a/r front and 0.48 a/r rear

dfferent wheels in them too

[PM-R33]

My mates R32 RB26 just let go number 6 cylinder, burning oil through the exhaust (lots of white/blue smoke) and after he did a comrpession test number 6 is down to 35psi. Car was only making 230rwkw, so when it comes to "what power will it let go on", very hard to say due to the abuse the engine gets.

Looking into what caused the failure in number 6, hopefully will talk to him tonight, but my bet is oil starvation and a failure in the ringlands.

[Bumblebee]

lol @ 3.5" would be better...

3" exhaust flows enough for about 1000hp... that means that with 600hp.. there are no restrictions.. 4"??? stupid..

i wouldnt go GT-SS as theyre average power among the ppl who use them are around the N1 turbo range.. not worth the 3k.. ur better off spendning another 500 and getting a set of gt2530 if u wanted hks.. they seem to average around 380kw according to the last guy who checked them all out and got his figures together...

as for PFC... im with nismoid.. that dude is totally wrong.. PFC is more than enough for 300-330awkw.. man i see those puters on gtrs that make like 500awkw+ without any problems..

mostly i agree with what nismoid pointed out, cept the cams.. cams arent required... stockies r good enough as i had them with that power figure BUT going a milder cam WILL improve overall midrange, response and peak torque figures, as well as bring the turbo on quicker

[iwantagtr]

I have got a gtr and the three hundred+ kw is my goal to. Are the HKS GTRS turbos an over kill.

Cheers

[nsta]

Hey mate, nice topic....ive got a stock motor and running 312awkw all day everyday....heres my recipe:

R33 Rb26dett

R34 N1 BB Turbos

Bosch 044 Fuel Pump

Nismo 555cc Injectors (90% duty cycle)

ARC Panel Filter + Cold Air Box

3" Exhaust Turbo Back

After Market Dump Pipes

Power FC + Hand Controller

Iridium Plugs

Turbo Smart boost controller (bleed valve)

HKS Cam Gears

With the above mods i made 312awkw.....i was advised to get bigger injectors, and an EBC for my next tune....and theyll be able to get 330awkw...keep in mind i havent dialed in my cams with my figure so i dont get the most out of my mid range as well......

[R31Nismoid]

GT-RS = no good for a stock 2.6ltr

[No Crust Racing]

Some good info coming guys, really appreciate the feedback - Keep it coming

By the sounds of it I'm on the right track and the stock bottom end will be strong enough given it's in good nick and gets treated well.

[paulR32gtr]

Nismoid said cam gears.. definitely a good cheap option.

I love my GT-SS's - they are so damn responsive. I'm getting peak of 292rwkw on 16-17psi, on a 19 year old engine that has never been rebuilt and showing no signs of slowing down.

Ben seems to tune on what feels right - depending on what car you get - an early 33 you will probably end up with something like mine, or a late model 34 around 310-320. I am sure you could ask him to tune it as a hand grenade, but not worth it in my opinion

Only gripe I have with the Power FC - and I believe this is an R32 only thing - it coughs constantly - like 3 - 4 times a drive. I am personally starting to think about something else like those new Links or the latest Wolf.

[rev210]

I think with all the dollars being thrown about on the setup a fresh/mild rebuilder engine just sitting in an engine stand even if being slowly built up is a good first move. Have the peice of mind that will see you really tearing up the track without any fear of every strange noise. Thats money spent on feeling good. Oil control as pointed out lots of times can be a problem depending on how the car is setup and driven.

GT-SS will give better results than a bigger turbo for a 300rwkw setup. They can be squeezed to 340rwkw or so when well setup and begin the power climb earlier in the rev range respectively to the 2530's. The garret -7's are smaller again than HKS GT-SS and may get a few extra rpm on them and still get you to 300rwkw.

Cam gears at least are a 'must have' - so cheap for some excellent gains.

As people know I am a fan of Cams on mild motors like this. Some extra lift helps get the power in early, dialled in and tuned around the boost curve. If you aren't too confident in terms of setup I will concede that sticking to factory ones with cam gears will do pretty darn well you will be stoked with them. At least till I go buy another GTR and actually remember to record my tune settings for the Tomei cams for people to try out. Being all talk I will guarentee I will smash stock cams tuned by the gods for bottom end and midrange power (you might be waiting a few years at this stage)

I think this sort of power goal is great for a street driven GTR and keeps within some of the factory limits like drivetrain and cooling. You will need a better clutch by the way at that power level for sure

Good little thread for discussion.

[R31Nismoid]

lol @ 3.5" would be better...

3" exhaust flows enough for about 1000hp... that means that with 600hp.. there are no restrictions.. 4"??? stupid..

3" wont flow 1000hp on PULP on a turbo application with mufflers, plumbed gates and so on.

[Swiper the Fox]

I would run something other than a PFC as you will be passing their effective power range, go for something that requires full mapping (no AFM)

My 500AWKW 9 sec. GTR racecar ran a garden variety Power FC with AFM's for years.

Never a problem

[N1GTR]

Do the HKS GTSS or Garrett -7s give a noticeable difference in terms of torque over the stock GTR turbos?

ie: Are they worth the 3K?

3k?

Theres some, new, for 2250

[femno]

The bigger the exhaust the better. But how quiet you can keep it is the toss up.

Dont listen when everyone always says '3inch is enough'...

It will do the job, but if you go bigger, the power can be made more easily, ie less boost and heat, more timing, generally better for the engine.

Going from a 3-3.2" to a twin equivalent to 3.8" upped my boost 6psi and gave me an extra 20kw @ the wheels without changing anything else.

Everyone runs a PFC cos theyre good, cheap, alot of people tune them. I recommend Ben 110% as well. I have one hiccup from it like once every few weeks. You just have to be unlucky for it to happen all the time.

You would be really silly not to put cam gears in also.

Get the standard cooler cleaned professionally.

Maybe a Bosch 044 intank. 650ccs are doing fine with my 335kw.

The last 2 on your list are heaps of work, like engine out heaps of work. But im sure youve read that.

[MFP]

Dan good topic, my BNR32 setup 303kw

- Full exhaust, min 3" from turbo's right back to rear end. Much gain from 4" at this power? 3-3.5'' after stock dumps

- Injectors, 600's? 700s? Sard 700cc, essential

- Airbox is fine with panel filter (prefer this option for safety unless there is huge gains to be made from pods but then I'll build/get an enclosure) pods in box for me, probably not required

- Turbo's 2860r-5's 16psi

- Standard cooler is fine but getting to it's limit at this power? slightly bigger ARC, probably not required

- Are coil packs required? Splitfire, would say essential unless using new stock

- Boost controller Blitz SBC-R

- Full ECU, most of you guys run PFC's, anything else worth going for? PFC works for me, still has the occasional hiccup

- Excellent tuning - Happy to go to Melb (3hrs for me) for this and see Ben at Race Pace Would say this is the most essential thing on your list

- Cam gears, not required from what I know but useful stock

- Fuel Pump or Reg or both? Sard in tank, essential

- Oil cooler not required but good for the standard bottom end. stock

- Upgraded oil pump required? N1 pump

- Sump baffle or oil control required? Sump baffle & restrictor

Mine had a stock rebuild with only the last 2 items changed from factory in 2006.