Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hard pipe kits have been known to cause issues with compressor surge.

Same as changing stock BOV’s

In short – leave them both alone.

Seen plenty of cars make 400rwkw+ with stock piping. It's not required, nor should it be changed.

How do you guys get around the constant issue of blowing off hoses or the hoses splitting?

Seems to be a never ending process for me to constantly put hoses on with even the nut and bolt style band clamps.

And the other day I had the hose coming off the pipe on the on the right hand side running down past the air box towards the intercooler split!!

What does everyone use? Any brands better/worse?

they are not needed but I have found on track days the stock GTR stuff gets pretty soft (with heat). but plenty of people run 300kw with the stock pipes. but personally I much prefer hard pipes. I like the trust kit best. I use the trust suction kit and the trust intercooler pipe kit (need both). that replaces all the standard piping in the engine bay. they look nice. but for sure if you are on a budget it's money that is better spent elsewhere.

How do you guys get around the constant issue of blowing off hoses or the hoses splitting?

Seems to be a never ending process for me to constantly put hoses on with even the nut and bolt style band clamps.

And the other day I had the hose coming off the pipe on the on the right hand side running down past the air box towards the intercooler split!!

You can just user better clamps, that said I was using stock clamps for 20,000kms over 2 cars, and they were fine.

They were recently swapped however as it was suspected there might have been a minor boost leak.

Are you sure your engine mounts are in good order? Sounds like there is perhaps some more movement than normal going on?

You can just user better clamps, that said I was using stock clamps for 20,000kms over 2 cars, and they were fine.

They were recently swapped however as it was suspected there might have been a minor boost leak.

Are you sure your engine mounts are in good order? Sounds like there is perhaps some more movement than normal going on?

Tried changing types of clamps, and even switched to the clamps I use at work (diesel fitter) which work on engines with 38psi running through them.

The engines mounts is actually something I completely overlooked. I'll have to have a bit of a look and see whats going on in that department.

Thanks for the imput Nismoid :)

or perhaps something else isn't affixed correctly and moving things around. have a good look as you really should not be having any major issues in that department

Yeah put it on a dyno if possible and have a look when it is loaded up at peak torque, should be able to see if there is much movement.

Yeah well its been on the dyno a few times in the last year and the shop that it was going to was not the best to say the least....

Anyway its going to Matty Spry down the gold coast hopefully in a couple of weeks so if i can't find it by then hopefully they might pick something up...

if by worth you mean spending 5+ hours to achieve nothing, then sure :)

you really only need to pull out the engine if your changing:

- mounts

- exhaust

- intake

- misc other stuff

all at once. otherwise, changing turbos is basically a 20bolt job, no need to pull out.

Operator10. Haven't done much yet. Finally got my car on the hoist at work. So will start on Monday night. Still haven't decided on turbos.

Engine wise check this thread I wrote it all down a while ago.

Ok was all set to have a big weekend and swap turbos and do a few other bits and pieces only to find out I can't get any -9s.

They only have -7s and -5s in stock.

Opinions on -7s? Responsive enough?

Otherwise I'm tempted to go small single eg. 3076 w/.82 rear

-7's are responsive but that depends on your definition of "responsive". On/off throttle they're great, they don't nose over at high rpm, and on an average boost setting they can give enough power to make a GTR feel like a whole new car. There's a few otherwise stock RB26's getting around the 310rwkw mark or so - area under the curve is great and you don't get caught in traffic wanting for more if that makes sense. It's also a good sized turbo setup that you can go have fun at the track or hills if that's your thing. There is probably a thread of 7's vs 9's somewhere - R31Nismoid would know of it

They have good get-up-and-go but if your idea of response is being able to pull like a freight train for 2000rpm in 3rd gear then I think you'll be disappointment (although if that's your idea of response, by a V8 :) )

Here's a -7 result;

Terry-42.jpg

Thanks for posting the dyno sheet N1GTR. I can see what you're saying regarding response as well. I had a chuckle at the "buy a V8" line as well. Very cheeky. Lol

With a built motor I will crank some boost into it and really see what the -7s can do.

Are the -7s bolt on in a 32 gtr?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah. OK. I take it back. I hadn't looked closely at the R33/4 arms and presumed that GKTech did as GKTech do everywhere else, which is to use sphericals there. The poly bushings are made to be 100% interchangeable, should use the standard bolt just fine. Every other bush in every other place in pretty much every other car, does.
    • @silviaz Ok cool, so much easier with a video. I can see why this video would be confusing for new players.   It is obvious that this entire bonnet is going to be resprayed, have a look in the background around 2:05, you can see a bunch of bare metal on the left side of the bonnet.  It's not an issue for the primer being laid down on the non-prepped clear on the bonnet. It will be sanded off at a later stage.  This might not be obvious to new players, but working on bare metal and factory paint in this instance, the factory paint is like a mountain and the bare metal is a huge valley. The bonnet needs to be levelled flat before it receives it's final stage of colour and clear coat. During this levelling process, the primer that is landing on the clear that you are worried about will be removed.  Also, this guy is out of control. Zero PPE while spraying, maybe he is a good example overall about what not to do lol.
    • Ok I FINALLY found a video lol. This took way longer than it should have as I could have sworn I saw multiple videos like this. I kept finding the completely opposite (the correct way of doing this). I wouldn't be surprised if I f**ked this up somehow.  I just realised where I've been getting confused and even with other things I work on. I haven't been doing things the regular way instead I'm going a roundabout way of doing things, like putting epoxy primer first then filler for example instead of putting just filler then primer on top of that, then wondering what happens if I get that primer on the clear coat that I haven't sanded yet. This was a bit of an epiphany 😂  But anyways, here this video. Time stamp, 2:56, some of the primer lands on the paint unscuffed above. You can see from the reflection it looks shiny.  
    • It does, this part circled in red. I assume the OEM bolt might not work well with the poly bushing because the dimensions may be different?
    • The J arm doesn't have bushes either. Assuming that by "J arm" you mean the part of the upright that runs down from the upper arm's outer bushes to the top of the hub. That has a kingpin style bearing in it. If you meant the lower control arm, it has 1 bush, at its inner end. If you have PU in there, that is superior to Nismo rubber. If you meant the caster/tension rod - it has 1x bush at the front end, and again PU is superior to Nismo rubber. But as I said above, I would definitely get the GKTech arms for that, as sphericals slay all other options there.
×
×
  • Create New...