Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

-7s being a tad more responsive again (over -9) would be an excellent choice if response is your #1 goal.

FYI, here's stock vs -7 boost response (very few data points.....its rough) same engine and probably same cam timing.

med_gallery_15274_3730_6060.png

FYI, here's stock vs -7 boost response (very few data points.....its rough) same engine and probably same cam timing.

med_gallery_15274_3730_6060.png

I thought N1 turbos were different to -7 turbos?? The legend on your graph says N1 whereas your text says -7. I thought -7 were a lot more responsive then N1.

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey guys, great thread, some useful information in it.

i am slowly working on my car to achieve just this set up 300awkw

at the moment, i have just installed

GT2860-7 x 2 turbos

Tomei expreme dump pipes

already has a front pipe, and a hks preist cat back with a high flow 3" Catco cat. (looking at changing exhuast to one with a bit louder/better flow) any suggestions?? rear cannon style.

i have a vipec ecu (which i need to get retuned but going to wait till after mods) MAFless

it has pump incar already, so that is a non issue.

suspension is all done.

i am at the stage of buying injectors, i have been looking at seimens injectors, can anybody give me some info on which type to run if they know about seimens injectors? part numbers etc, im looking at about the 600cc mark for injectors

Also never really though about cam gears, but might also look into those b4 retune.

Cheers

Daz

ive got very similar mods to urs Daz.

im running 600cc nismo injectors with a sard intake fuel pump with a direct 14v power supply.

im also running GReddy cam gears, i think they are great on an RB26. they gave me more flexability when it came time for tuning. ie i had a choice between getting them tuned for outright power or sacrifice abit of top end for more midrange power/torque :)

ive got very similar mods to urs Daz.

im running 600cc nismo injectors with a sard intake fuel pump with a direct 14v power supply.

im also running GReddy cam gears, i think they are great on an RB26. they gave me more flexability when it came time for tuning. ie i had a choice between getting them tuned for outright power or sacrifice abit of top end for more midrange power/torque :)

Whats your max injector duty? What power is it making and what boost is that at?

+1 on cam gears

Not sure on injector duty, il have to find that out

296kw @ 19psi - cam gears adjusted for midrange, feels so responsive And just screams out of corners like a mofo :) I'm happy with it 100%

Duty couldn't be too high with 600s, im running 700s and only seeing max of 65% @ 350-360rwkw. Has a minor rail pressure bump so move it to 70-75%

600cc @ 300rwkw, rough stab would be 55-65%?

Had a good read of this thread before I started my round of mods for 300kw. My mods so far are

2860-9

Nismo 600cc

New PFC

HKS cam gears

Greddy dump/front pipe extension

Kakimoto Regu exhaust

Splitfire coil packs

Hasn't been tuned yet because of coilpack and EBC issues. But I'm hopeful I'll get close to cracking the 300 mark but at this stage I just want it tuned and running

Time and time again I see ppl try to estimate duty cycle in relation to power output but it seems like we are leaving out the most inportant fator which is afr.

A car with 600cc making 300rwkw tuned at 11.0afr will show higher duty cycle than if it was tuned to 12.0afr and making the same 300rwkw.

Can any one explain why my boost curve is fluctuating, at a glance i'd guess some sort of fuzzy logic function however im pretty sure the blitz spec r are theoretically just an open loop controller with simple duty cycle adjustment. The car is running the standard 8psi actuators on dash 7s and the blitz boost controller set to 86. When i eventually fit bigger dumps (i have stock 32), bigger afm and retune on e85, i'd like to run more boost. Is it worth while upgrading to 14psi actuators?

Cheers

Pat

l.jpg

Time and time again I see ppl try to estimate duty cycle in relation to power output but it seems like we are leaving out the most inportant fator which is afr.

A car with 600cc making 300rwkw tuned at 11.0afr will show higher duty cycle than if it was tuned to 12.0afr and making the same 300rwkw.

No different to estimating a dyno figure range or RPM turbos will come on.

There are always variables, however you can work out 'roughly' in most cases, hence its called an estimate...

Currently running -9s with 335kw, nismo 600cc injectors and fuel pump, with a max injector duty cycle of 86%

Just for reference

What air flow meters are using to get up to that figure? Are the standard still coping or have they been changed to Nismo or Z32?

My car is getting tuned in just under two weeks with -9s and 720cc injectors so i'm thinking the AFM's are going to be the next limiting factor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Either the WG is reaching full opening, or it is not. The "it is not" case could only occur if there was not enough time available to swing the valve fully open during that boost event. I would consider that to be unlikely, as this is a commercial product that is in use elsewhere, so it really should work. But in your case, because there is definitely SOMETHING wrong, it should not be assumed that things like that are working as they should. You should put a video camera where it can see the actuator (if at all possible) during a run to see how far it is moving.
    • I think you're mostly on the ball there. With the straight gate, I suspect the weight of the spring will determine how quickly the gate can close, when not run with active pressure drive on both sides of the diaphragm. Otherwise, with drive on both sides of the diaphragm, you could almost go without a spring at all, only needing one to make sure that the thing was actually closed while completely off boost and not having pressure available to drive it closed. Butterfly valves have mostly symmetric loading when there is flow going through them, meaning that the gas hitting the upstream part of the blade is balanced by the gas hitting the downstream part of the blade, which means you don't need actuator torque to overcome any non-symmetric flow induced loads. But the gas flow does impart a purely normal load against the shaft, which transfers into the bush/bearing at each end of the shaft and does increase the torque required to make the shaft turn. Only a little, but it is there. I have no feeling for the amount of force involved in a WG application, but it certainly could make an argument for a decent spring weight being required. But all of this is just peripheral to the actual problem here.
    • The answer to this would be I followed the documentation from Turbosmart which said each spring pressure could achieve a maximum of 5x it's rated pressure so the included smallest spring being the 6psi had a range up to 30psi. I went with the 12 because I figured it'd likely hover around 15psi as a base pressure however I was obviously wrong.    I have a log here that I'll dig out that is purely wastegate and no Mac valve controlling anything.   If it can't hold anywhere near 12psi, does that mean the straight gate is virtually wide open during a run? Or am I thinking about this all wrong.   I could Tee Piece into the cooler pipe pre intercooler where the wastegate gets its feed, and send that to the ecu and see how that reads, I just don't have a spare pressure sensor currently that's all.
    • lol nice, I wouldn't worry about sanding back the filler to check for rust then. Yep very much a thing. Personally I don't do the panel beating, its very easy to have a panel beater sort that out for you. If they aren't doing any prep work the actual panel beating generally doesn't take long at all.  Have you taken before pictures before you started this project? I'd be keen to see the before and afters when you're done.
    • Some good discussion in here, for the most part I can't really add too much to it - thought I'd add some notes to the datalog screen shot that probably aren't news to anyone but a good prop... this is assuming 25psi-ish should be the boost ceiling given the first post refers to 23psi.   To state the obvious, this issue seems super weird.  Turbo speed seems pretty lethagic to build, like the turbo isn't getting as much drive as it needs - and it doesn't help that wgdc keeps rising AFTER boost target then completely shuts duty at a point, which in theory should have the straight gate dump heaps past the turbo and funnily enough causes the huge drop off.  It seems like pretty blunt boost control tuning but I'd not call that the primary issue, so much as possibly not helping the situation. I'm curious, what does a pull look like with purely mechanical boost control?  Like purely wastegate?   There are things in this log and story that make it sound like there could be a significant restriction in the intercooler piping or something - but then it's also overshooting boost target which is NOT what you'd expect with a restriction.   I can see where people are coming from with the non-linear wastegate bypass (not that any valves are linear for this kind of thing), but it still doesn't make sense that it can't hold <20psi on a 12psi spring.    Have you, or can you try measuring pressure pre-intercooler?  Be pretty interesting to see what's happening there vs in the intake manifold - sorry if I've repeated old ground, I've kinda skimmed over but I could have missed something.  In terms of comments regarding the wg spring being closer to boost target, I haven't used a straight gate but part of the reason for having close to wg target is about fighting backpressure as well - I might be wrong, but I'd have thought that part of the point of using a butterfly valve like the straight gate does you actually don't have to resist pressure at all, on EITHER side of the gate.   It shouldn't need too much leverage to start opening, the spring being more to do with where it triggers opening as opposed to resisting boost & EMAP, though smarter people can correct me if I'm wrong there.  
×
×
  • Create New...