Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Currently running -9s with 335kw, nismo 600cc injectors and fuel pump, with a max injector duty cycle of 86%

Just for reference

Dyno graph please!

What air flow meters are using to get up to that figure? Are the standard still coping or have they been changed to Nismo or Z32?

My car is getting tuned in just under two weeks with -9s and 720cc injectors so i'm thinking the AFM's are going to be the next limiting factor.

I'm using Z32s works well recommend upgrading or like stated earlier mafless ECU

Just last weekend i make 311kw on my 32gtr. -7 turbos, tomei cams, supposed head porting, turbo back exhaust, 750cc injectors, fuel pump, pfc. I bought brand new z32 afm's, messed around getting them all fitted up nicely; when it came to getting tuned the tuner basically said we were reaching only maybe 20% of the z32's efficiency and had bigger jumps in voltage vs trim than the original so much harder to get a steady afr. Ended up swapping back to the original afm's and instantly became better to tune (smaller voltage steps meant more refinablilty) and still have 0.5v to spare. Spools up quickly and pulls harder that a professional thaiwanese girl :thumbsup:

Edited by joeyta22

For everyones information, I have compiled this spreadsheet of all the results from the RB26 dyno thread here:

SAU_dyno_comparisons.xls

This only includes results that aren't from standard turbos, but heaps of results from -7's/N1's, -9's/GT-SS, and -5's/2530.

I have also added this to the dyno thread.

And yes I did get really bored to find the time to come up with this one lol.

Just last weekend i make 311kw on my 32gtr. -7 turbos, tomei cams, supposed head porting, turbo back exhaust, 750cc injectors, fuel pump, pfc. I bought brand new z32 afm's, messed around getting them all fitted up nicely; when it came to getting tuned the tuner basically said we were reaching only maybe 20% of the z32's efficiency and had bigger jumps in voltage vs trim than the original so much harder to get a steady afr. Ended up swapping back to the original afm's and instantly became better to tune (smaller voltage steps meant more refinablilty) and still have 0.5v to spare. Spools up quickly and pulls harder that a professional thaiwanese girl :thumbsup:

Hey mare do you have dyno graphs with rpm etc? If not when do you hit full boost and what boost are you running? Cheers

Just got my dyno result back from racepace. Got 316kw running 17-18psi with n1's, fuel pump, ID 1000c injectors (53% duty), nismo afm's, pfc, racepace 3.5" full custom exhaust and cam gears. This is a really safe tune. Can post up dyno sheet if you want.

Car is mega responsive and still kicks out with 285's all around 1st and 2nd gear.

Hey mare do you have dyno graphs with rpm etc? If not when do you hit full boost and what boost are you running? Cheers

Is running at 17psi max and hits that at 4500rpm, could be much better but the actuators are piss weak (only about 8psi) which is why the power becomes a little wavey around the top of the graph aswell. Overall im stoked with it tho, 200kw at 4000rpm is a great result in my eyes.

296330_10150326044066843_606966842_8560634_1321811639_n.jpg

joeyta22, nice results mate. im still deciding whether to go -7s or -9s as an upgrade.

how much better are the -9s in terms of response compared to -7s?

is there any -9s dyno sheet with RPM instead of speed.

is there anyone in sydney with -7s or -9s on an unstroked motor who are willing to take me for a test drive? worth a shot asking anyway lol

Just to throw a spanner in the works for low mounts, here is a direct comparison between a -7 set up and a GT3582R on 6boost manifold :)

I dislike 35R's because they are so lazy but even a lazy single appears to kill the low mounts everywhere :nyaanyaa:

haha i got the exact same setup tuned on my car 2 days before you posted this..

Unopened rb26dett (115,000km)

tomei 260 9.15mm poncams type b

gt35 0.82 rear

6boost mani

tial 44mm w/g

700cc sards

stock rail

044 intake

tuned on BP98

485hp @ 20psi on a safe tune (at hubs)

full boost at 4300rpm, love it! shits all over my old twin setup in every way

thick line is gt35 + poncam tune, thin line is -7 tune

7TYI8l.jpg

Apologies for the poor phone pic of my dyno graph!

Not really a spanner. It's already been established, the -7 setup was 100rwkw down @ 4500rpm compared to every other -7 set-up. That ain't no dyno variance :)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/379561-gtr-r33-v-spec-build/

So whilst a direct 'comparison', it's totally wrong to compare a working set-up with one that has major issues.

Very misleading info, although it wasn't intended that way of course.

Not really a spanner. It's already been established, the -7 setup was 100rwkw down @ 4500rpm compared to every other -7 set-up. That ain't no dyno variance :)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/379561-gtr-r33-v-spec-build/

So whilst a direct 'comparison', it's totally wrong to compare a working set-up with one that has major issues.

Very misleading info, although it wasn't intended that way of course.

It's not misleading at all, if you look at ANY result on the ALLSTAR dyno they are always down on midrange compared to most other dynos...

For instance my car only makes 127rwkw at 4000rpm on the Allstar dyno but 196rwkw at the same rpm on a Dyno Dynamics dyno. That was on the same tank of fuel with about 50km driving between the 2 dynos!

Another RB25 neo makes 135rwkw at 4000rpm on the Allstar dyno but 220rwkw at the same rpm on a Dyno Dynamics dyno...

Then we could compare my set up to batterys, both same motor, same fuel, same turbo, same manifold, same gate... Same top end power on the same boost on the same type on dyno. Plus same boost response and build up on the road. His makes 200rwkw at 4000rpm (funnily enough almost exactly the same as mine on a dyno dynamics) and mine makes 127rwkw...

Take from it what you will, I have no idea why it is like that but every single result I see off the Allstar dyno appears to have shit mid range compared with other dynos which explains most of the "100rwkw down @ 4500rpm"

Edited by SimonR32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
    • I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350. But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing.  I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD. So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂
    • Nah, the car seems to run exactly as it did prior, in saying this it does "seem" to be better down low, like more eager to rev, but that may be 100% placebo effect from intake noise But, I'm not worried about it at all, in the end it is a fairly low compression NA engine that has a well shrouded intake,  if it is getting hotter IAT I cannot notice anything negative performance wise from the seat of my pants thrashing it about on the street or sitting in traffic, so meh, car now now makes induction noise so I'm happy
    • Do you have an IAT sensor? It's worth checking it to see. You may be suprised how little gap you actually need to flood your engine with hot air. (I tape up my airbox for a reason) :p
    • @KinkstaahKrinkle paint the "silver" alloy, not the red filter frame Engine bay heat won't be a issue worth worrying about as the silver alloy blocks it off on 3 sides, as for the top, the bonnet seals most of it and the big OEM CAI intake snorkel is still fitted in its original position  I will head into Clark's Rubber when I have some time to grab some pinch weld to tidy up the alloy after I paint it As for performance, I honestly wasn't expecting any, the only reason I got it is because the intake noise sounds cool to my old ears when I'm feeding it the beans Sometimes it's the silly things you do in in life that gives the most fun, and I do love anything that makes cool car noises In other news: I survived 4 nights at sea with Jackie not throwing me over board, holidays are continuing now as we are currently chilling at the Beachcomber in Toukley, after taking the coast roads from Sydney in the MX5, top down all the way, Toukley is where I spent a good deal of my youth holidaying during the summer months, there's lots of reminiscing going on,  and lots of beaches and old houses to visit Next on the list is to head to Batemans Bay for a few days, but we will take the Commodore out to stretch its legs, then Commodore hasn't really moved for months
×
×
  • Create New...