Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Currently running -9s with 335kw, nismo 600cc injectors and fuel pump, with a max injector duty cycle of 86%

Just for reference

Dyno graph please!

What air flow meters are using to get up to that figure? Are the standard still coping or have they been changed to Nismo or Z32?

My car is getting tuned in just under two weeks with -9s and 720cc injectors so i'm thinking the AFM's are going to be the next limiting factor.

I'm using Z32s works well recommend upgrading or like stated earlier mafless ECU

Just last weekend i make 311kw on my 32gtr. -7 turbos, tomei cams, supposed head porting, turbo back exhaust, 750cc injectors, fuel pump, pfc. I bought brand new z32 afm's, messed around getting them all fitted up nicely; when it came to getting tuned the tuner basically said we were reaching only maybe 20% of the z32's efficiency and had bigger jumps in voltage vs trim than the original so much harder to get a steady afr. Ended up swapping back to the original afm's and instantly became better to tune (smaller voltage steps meant more refinablilty) and still have 0.5v to spare. Spools up quickly and pulls harder that a professional thaiwanese girl :thumbsup:

Edited by joeyta22

For everyones information, I have compiled this spreadsheet of all the results from the RB26 dyno thread here:

SAU_dyno_comparisons.xls

This only includes results that aren't from standard turbos, but heaps of results from -7's/N1's, -9's/GT-SS, and -5's/2530.

I have also added this to the dyno thread.

And yes I did get really bored to find the time to come up with this one lol.

Just last weekend i make 311kw on my 32gtr. -7 turbos, tomei cams, supposed head porting, turbo back exhaust, 750cc injectors, fuel pump, pfc. I bought brand new z32 afm's, messed around getting them all fitted up nicely; when it came to getting tuned the tuner basically said we were reaching only maybe 20% of the z32's efficiency and had bigger jumps in voltage vs trim than the original so much harder to get a steady afr. Ended up swapping back to the original afm's and instantly became better to tune (smaller voltage steps meant more refinablilty) and still have 0.5v to spare. Spools up quickly and pulls harder that a professional thaiwanese girl :thumbsup:

Hey mare do you have dyno graphs with rpm etc? If not when do you hit full boost and what boost are you running? Cheers

Just got my dyno result back from racepace. Got 316kw running 17-18psi with n1's, fuel pump, ID 1000c injectors (53% duty), nismo afm's, pfc, racepace 3.5" full custom exhaust and cam gears. This is a really safe tune. Can post up dyno sheet if you want.

Car is mega responsive and still kicks out with 285's all around 1st and 2nd gear.

Hey mare do you have dyno graphs with rpm etc? If not when do you hit full boost and what boost are you running? Cheers

Is running at 17psi max and hits that at 4500rpm, could be much better but the actuators are piss weak (only about 8psi) which is why the power becomes a little wavey around the top of the graph aswell. Overall im stoked with it tho, 200kw at 4000rpm is a great result in my eyes.

296330_10150326044066843_606966842_8560634_1321811639_n.jpg

joeyta22, nice results mate. im still deciding whether to go -7s or -9s as an upgrade.

how much better are the -9s in terms of response compared to -7s?

is there any -9s dyno sheet with RPM instead of speed.

is there anyone in sydney with -7s or -9s on an unstroked motor who are willing to take me for a test drive? worth a shot asking anyway lol

Just to throw a spanner in the works for low mounts, here is a direct comparison between a -7 set up and a GT3582R on 6boost manifold :)

I dislike 35R's because they are so lazy but even a lazy single appears to kill the low mounts everywhere :nyaanyaa:

haha i got the exact same setup tuned on my car 2 days before you posted this..

Unopened rb26dett (115,000km)

tomei 260 9.15mm poncams type b

gt35 0.82 rear

6boost mani

tial 44mm w/g

700cc sards

stock rail

044 intake

tuned on BP98

485hp @ 20psi on a safe tune (at hubs)

full boost at 4300rpm, love it! shits all over my old twin setup in every way

thick line is gt35 + poncam tune, thin line is -7 tune

7TYI8l.jpg

Apologies for the poor phone pic of my dyno graph!

Not really a spanner. It's already been established, the -7 setup was 100rwkw down @ 4500rpm compared to every other -7 set-up. That ain't no dyno variance :)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/379561-gtr-r33-v-spec-build/

So whilst a direct 'comparison', it's totally wrong to compare a working set-up with one that has major issues.

Very misleading info, although it wasn't intended that way of course.

Not really a spanner. It's already been established, the -7 setup was 100rwkw down @ 4500rpm compared to every other -7 set-up. That ain't no dyno variance :)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/379561-gtr-r33-v-spec-build/

So whilst a direct 'comparison', it's totally wrong to compare a working set-up with one that has major issues.

Very misleading info, although it wasn't intended that way of course.

It's not misleading at all, if you look at ANY result on the ALLSTAR dyno they are always down on midrange compared to most other dynos...

For instance my car only makes 127rwkw at 4000rpm on the Allstar dyno but 196rwkw at the same rpm on a Dyno Dynamics dyno. That was on the same tank of fuel with about 50km driving between the 2 dynos!

Another RB25 neo makes 135rwkw at 4000rpm on the Allstar dyno but 220rwkw at the same rpm on a Dyno Dynamics dyno...

Then we could compare my set up to batterys, both same motor, same fuel, same turbo, same manifold, same gate... Same top end power on the same boost on the same type on dyno. Plus same boost response and build up on the road. His makes 200rwkw at 4000rpm (funnily enough almost exactly the same as mine on a dyno dynamics) and mine makes 127rwkw...

Take from it what you will, I have no idea why it is like that but every single result I see off the Allstar dyno appears to have shit mid range compared with other dynos which explains most of the "100rwkw down @ 4500rpm"

Edited by SimonR32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
×
×
  • Create New...