Definitive Guide To Building 300-330awkw Gt-r

[Count Grantleyish]

When I had the 33, with GT-SS on 18.6 (actuator controlled) it made 302.8rwkw - dyne graph is in 26 results thread, pg 13 or 14.

The 32 I had, the turbos were 34 N1's with HKS actuator and EVC4 at 20psi, it made 270-ish rwkw it felt lazier and vague (my opinion) compared to GT-SS I had in the 33, could be rubbish tune from a workshop who did the work (bought it like that).

I'm on my 3rd GTR and am saving up for turbo upgrade, I'll get there eventually and am toying the idea of trust turbos, unless I find one for ok price, I'll just grab -9s.

[R31Nismoid]

ive checked the specs on -9s and -7s and they're identical apart from the comp wheel & trim.

so for example if at 19psi, the -7s will make 290kw, what will the -9s make on the same boost?

is the -9s the same response as the -7 or slightly laggier?

-9s make a tad more power

-7s are a tad more responsive

That's the summation of it.

[N1GTR]

I would be going a 3076R for 300rwkw and you would only need 19psi They are so much better than a GT35R!

Plus I think you will find the cost comparison would be fairly similar, how much do you think it would cost from filter to cat to get the twins going?

Checking my last graph I'm at around 270rwkw at 4500rpm with 500cc less that you

Ok good question and given there's a lot of readers of this thread, here we go;

Lets say the GTR in question is totally 100% standard, most will have an exhaust or some mods but lets just say 100% stock.

Twin turbo specific;

2 turbos; $2190

Manifold gaskets; $44

Turbo gaskets; $82.50

Dump pipes; ~$300 for 34GTR

Front pipes; ~$350 for second hand Japanese, or $599 new for Blitz from Justjap

Air filter; S Tune Nismo $140 or any K&N in stock airbox

Total $3106.5

Single turbo specific; (This is going off my head from my single conversion

Turbo; (Lets say 35R though) $1485

Manifold; 6boost $1100 (unsure on that one, may be more)

Oil/water lines; $350

Dump/front pipe to cat; $550 stainless

Turbo inlet piping; $240

Filter; $130

Turbo to FMIC; $240

Wastegate (Single); Turbosmart 40mm $558.30

Shield for filter (to make legal); $100

Manifold gasket; $50.60

EDIT: Forgot exhaust/dump gasket

Total $4803.9.

Single/Twin turbo requirements;

ECU; PFC DJetro $1000 second hand

Cat converter; Not sure, say $400

Cat back; New Blitz from Justjap $999

Injectors; Any jap brand or ID's, Say $800 including any fitment parts depending on brand

Fuel pump; 044 plus fittings $300

Total; $3499

Twins; $6605.5

Single; $8302.9

Difference; $1697.4

That should help anyone considering doing up their GTR

EDIT: Depending on State, Engineering certificate needs to be done for a single conversion, there's another $1100 on top for NSW at least making the single cost $2697.4 more than twins (which happens to be enough for a Nismo twin plate clutch or a nice set of wheels)

[N1GTR]

-9s make a tad more power

-7s are a tad more responsive

That's the summation of it.

haha I love it how the general consensus seems to be 7's cant get above 300rwkw. If we were allowed by the owner to push it I'm certain it can get over 320rwkw given the highest it got was 319rwkw but the stress was on safety rather than a figure. Shame that car is now sold

[linkems]

haha I love it how the general consensus seems to be 7's cant get above 300rwkw. If we were allowed by the owner to push it I'm certain it can get over 320rwkw given the highest it got was 319rwkw but the stress was on safety rather than a figure. Shame that car is now sold

Was this dash 7 equipped car you refer to using stock 8psi actuators or something stronger?

Cheers

[N1GTR]

Was this dash 7 equipped car you refer to using stock 8psi actuators or something stronger?

Cheers

1 Bar versions modified locally

[N1GTR]

Oops also forgot a boost controller for both setups

Simon enjoy that 10rwkw, mine was untuned and EBC off - i'll get there

[SimonR32]

Ok good question and given there's a lot of readers of this thread, here we go;

Lets say the GTR in question is totally 100% standard, most will have an exhaust or some mods but lets just say 100% stock.

Twin turbo specific;

2 turbos; $2190

Manifold gaskets; $44

Turbo gaskets; $82.50

Dump pipes; ~$300 for 34GTR

Front pipes; ~$350 for second hand Japanese, or $599 new for Blitz from Justjap

Air filter; S Tune Nismo $140 or any K&N in stock airbox

Total $3106.5

Single turbo specific; (This is going off my head from my single conversion

Turbo; (Lets say 35R though) $1485

Manifold; 6boost $1100 (unsure on that one, may be more)

Oil/water lines; $350

Dump/front pipe to cat; $550 stainless

Turbo inlet piping; $240

Filter; $130

Turbo to FMIC; $240

Wastegate (Single); Turbosmart 40mm $558.30

Shield for filter (to make legal); $100

Manifold gasket; $50.60

EDIT: Forgot exhaust/dump gasket

Total $4803.9.

Single/Twin turbo requirements;

ECU; PFC DJetro $1000 second hand

Cat converter; Not sure, say $400

Cat back; New Blitz from Justjap $999

Injectors; Any jap brand or ID's, Say $800 including any fitment parts depending on brand

Fuel pump; 044 plus fittings $300

Total; $3499

Twins; $6605.5

Single; $8302.9

Difference; $1697.4

That should help anyone considering doing up their GTR

EDIT: Depending on State, Engineering certificate needs to be done for a single conversion, there's another $1100 on top for NSW at least making the single cost $2697.4 more than twins (which happens to be enough for a Nismo twin plate clutch or a nice set of wheels)

Thumbs up for putting in the effort to get the numbers down!

I priced the single last night at $3900 using a GT3076R, Tial 44mm and 6boost set up (you are getting ripped off on the front/dump pipe and the gate haha)... If you wanted even cheaper you could go a Kinugawa T67 and save another $1000 on that. Labour to install a single should be a little cheaper as well which may be a factor depending on if it's DIY or workshop

My point is that a lot of people think that singles are a lot more expensive than twins but if you look at it there isn't really that much in it. When you factor in all new parts (no second hand stuff) plus hard piping kits for the twins they actually come out a lot more expensive

[N1GTR]

Thumbs up for putting in the effort to get the numbers down!

I priced the single last night at $3900 using a GT3076R, Tial 44mm and 6boost set up (you are getting ripped off on the front/dump pipe and the gate haha)... If you wanted even cheaper you could go a Kinugawa T67 and save another $1000 on that. Labour to install a single should be a little cheaper as well which may be a factor depending on if it's DIY or workshop

My point is that a lot of people think that singles are a lot more expensive than twins but if you look at it there isn't really that much in it. When you factor in all new parts (no second hand stuff) plus hard piping kits for the twins they actually come out a lot more expensive

Yeah thanks!

Im sure there's cheaper turbos out there that do the job but we were talking about 35R's so I used that haha. Didnt include labour as thats different from shop to shop and would confuse people too much probably

Hard pipes are not required on twin setups for up to 400rwkw, I listed every part needed and nothing thats not

Can some of this info please be put in the first post Ash? Or links to specific posts?

[Count Grantleyish]

Simon, actually hard pipe kit aren't really required for this power level.

Myself and many others have made at least 300rwkw with standard piping.

But for whoever likes their bling, again each to their own.

[SimonR32]

Yeah I know hard pipes are not needed but I would say most people who are doing turbo upgrades do them

[R31Nismoid]

Can't think of one GTR down here running a had pipe kit in Vic

Everyone just uses stock, even in Aaron34 & TangoMatt who both had 400rwkw - stock piping/airboxes etc.

[MrStabby]

haha I love it how the general consensus seems to be 7's cant get above 300rwkw.

There's no reason for anyone to think that - there's plenty of over 300kw results in the RB26 sticky. I'm 305kw on 17 psi. IMO 320kw is a better ballpark expectation for -7s.

[N1GTR]

There's no reason for anyone to think that - there's plenty of over 300kw results in the RB26 sticky. I'm 305kw on 17 psi. IMO 320kw is a better ballpark expectation for -7s.

Agreed!

[JD32R]

haha I love it how the general consensus seems to be 7's cant get above 300rwkw. If we were allowed by the owner to push it I'm certain it can get over 320rwkw given the highest it got was 319rwkw but the stress was on safety rather than a figure. Shame that car is now sold

Hi Mate,

Just wanted to say thanks for the information in the thread (also big thanks to R31 nismoid - i regularly watch your threads and re read them, cheers mate)

Im currently in the same boat as most of the ppl watching this thread.

i have a R32 Gtr. 84k km on the clock - genuine.

-running what i believe to be R34 Gtr N1 turbos / dash 7's

-eboost street running high and low boost. 14 and 18 i believe off top of my head.

-Apexi PFC

-N1 pumps

-Apexi pods w/Z32 AFM

-usual other bits, radiator, dumps (unsure of brand spec etc), hi flow cat (same), exhaust which i believe is at min 3inch from cat to 3.5inch with proper muffler setup and end.

This is what im looking to upgrade/buy for my next tune. in very near future: currently the car makes 290 ish i think, cant remember the exact figure but its around that on 18psi. (at present car economy is quite bad in comparison to mates almost exact build with more hp).

-adjustable cam gears (looked at kits for Greddy w/timing belt, HKS, and JUN off nengun) Greddy thus far appears to be cheaper and accessible.

-injectors 700cc - 800cc, now i know i need to get low impedance, top feed, but im after direct drop in ones? any ideas or best ones to look at, now im happy to spend the money on worthy products but again money saved here is money spend else where.

-changing pods over to stock airbox/snorkel with Nismo filter/K&N if that is worn out. Im over pods and the hot air, also i like the design and legality of the box/ have read you can cut into the bottom and run another flexible pipe to a lower point of the front bar? not sure if worth it

-Have a R34 Gtr intercooler to install, for better look and have read they are bit better than the stock R32 gtr ones.

NEXT step (near future hopefully): i will be grabbing some dash-9's for myself: from what ive read, using the HKS actuators is the best way to go?? esentially the -9 is a GTSS turbo (same housings, wheels etc)?

Im trying to get information on the parts i want to get *above so i can take the car and parts for a tune (Unigroup Syd) i want a bit more power from the turbos, and i want to run a better over all system. At present the car is really slurping juice and friend has noted being behind me that whenever i am up the gears and change there is a dump of black.

My mate who runs a simmilar car is averaging 25% on my fuel economy with more power, bigger injectors, adj cam gears etc. nothing else different.

Now bare with me i am quite new to turbo'd cars etc but have a fair understanding of whats what, just not much on specifications, brands, etc etc - so if anyone wants to lend me a hand would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance guys.

[N1GTR]

-running what i believe to be R34 Gtr N1 turbos / dash 7's

Im guessing you bought the car like that and havnt had them off to check? If you know they're the 7's, is suggest you save your money and dont change to -9's as they're SO close to each other its not worth the effort and expense to change them.

Lets say you do the swap, excluding labour here's some numbers to consider;

You need to buy;

Turbos $2190

Gaskets (manifold and turbo) $126.50

1 Bar actuators; $240

Total $2556.5

You then can sell the 7's to offset this cost. They seem to average about $1400 second hand, so you're out of pocket $1156.50 PLUS labour which I cant see being less than $350 at any shop so thats $1506.5 you're out of pocket assuming you can get $1400 for the old turbos.

My advice, ask Yavuz or Tyson very nicely to get out the bore scope and do their best to read the tag on the turbo's so you know what you've got on their currently.

-usual other bits, radiator, dumps (unsure of brand spec etc), hi flow cat (same), exhaust which i believe is at min 3inch from cat to 3.5inch with proper muffler setup and end.

If the dumps are split dumps (eg HKS), get rid of them and put on stock R34GTR dumps or even better the early model Tomei dumps (HPI is also good). This makes a big difference and Yavuz (Unigroup) will agree. Rest should be fine

This is what im looking to upgrade/buy for my next tune. in very near future: currently the car makes 290 ish i think, cant remember the exact figure but its around that on 18psi. (at present car economy is quite bad in comparison to mates almost exact build with more hp).

-adjustable cam gears (looked at kits for Greddy w/timing belt, HKS, and JUN off nengun) Greddy thus far appears to be cheaper and accessible.

-injectors 700cc - 800cc, now i know i need to get low impedance, top feed, but im after direct drop in ones? any ideas or best ones to look at, now im happy to spend the money on worthy products but again money saved here is money spend else where.

-changing pods over to stock airbox/snorkel with Nismo filter/K&N if that is worn out. Im over pods and the hot air, also i like the design and legality of the box/ have read you can cut into the bottom and run another flexible pipe to a lower point of the front bar? not sure if worth it

Cam gears; Call RacePace in Bayswater Victoria for a price. They do their own, cost less than the Japanese brands but every bit as strong (if not stronger given they're using the stock outer section) and why not support local business

Injectors; ID1000's. May seem like a lot of capacity, but they drive better than the factory 444cc ones do, come with everything to fit RB26 etc and for Unigroup it's nothing they havnt done before. I cant comment on your fuel econ, thats for Yavuz to do, but I can tell you I had another brand of 1000's in my car, made the power fine but drivability was crap and fuel usage was a joke. Went to ID2000's and couldnt believe how the car drives now (just like stock, no jerking in very low throttle situations like carparks)

Airbox; Smart move, do exactly that. I dont know what you mean about cutting it and opening another hole, it's already got one, maybe you're talking about making the existing one larger?

NEXT step (near future hopefully): i will be grabbing some dash-9's for myself: from what ive read, using the HKS actuators is the best way to go?? esentially the -9 is a GTSS turbo (same housings, wheels etc)?

-9 is GTSS. For actuators you need the ones that are 1 bar (14.7psi), so the options are either call GCG and get a set ($240 for GTR specific pair) or get a set from HKS which will be more expensive than that. I've had both, unless you're a brand whore, just get the GCG ones

Im trying to get information on the parts i want to get *above so i can take the car and parts for a tune (Unigroup Syd) i want a bit more power from the turbos, and i want to run a better over all system. At present the car is really slurping juice and friend has noted being behind me that whenever i am up the gears and change there is a dump of black.

Now bare with me i am quite new to turbo'd cars etc but have a fair understanding of whats what, just not much on specifications, brands, etc etc - so if anyone wants to lend me a hand would be appreciated.

Great choice of tuner. He's widely regarded as "the" gun tuner in Sydney by open minded people and other tuners. If you've never been there before, dont worry, you're in good hands. The shop looks small and not visually impressive compared to some other shops around the country but the results are what counts. Yavuz is also a mechanical engineer specialising in performance engines.

Im out there quite often so I may bump into you there. Mention the skylines club, or me by name as we get well looked after there.

Lastly, if your budget allows, go buy some Tomei poncams, you'll see a nice improvement in the midrange. The specs you need are "Poncam 260IN&EX 9.15mm". They're a drop in cam, so the work to install them is done without taking the head off the engine etc. I'd be putting in a set of Tomei type A valvesprings also but none of the results i've posted up have had them installed so please dont think they're a required item (i'd personally do that then tell Yavuz to wind them up to the end of their efficiency just to see how they go, but thats just me ).

[SimonR32]

Can't think of one GTR down here running a had pipe kit in Vic

Everyone just uses stock, even in Aaron34 & TangoMatt who both had 400rwkw - stock piping/airboxes etc.

*Most people who don't live in the only state with a one intake mod law

Also who needs power in Victoria, it's always raining... Everything feels like 1000hp in the rain

[dori34]

Steve. you forgo to add extra $150 for 1bar actuators

well im deciding atm whether to go single (kinugawa TD06SL2 low mount with ext gate welded on housing)

or to upgrade to -7s. i am aiming for the 300rwkw region.

it is cheaper for me to go down the single route as i can do everything for the cost price alone of -7s if i were to upgrade the twins.

here's my cost breakdown

twin turbo;

-7s with 1bar actuators $2400

port manifolds $150

r34 GTR dumps $250

new gaskets $80

total - $2880

single turbo;

kinugawa TD06SL2 with lines $850

modify housing to fit ext gate $150

44mm ext gate $400

custom intake pipe $150

air filter $100

custom dump $150

screamer $100

new gaskets $80

total - $1980

so atm the single route is looking to be the best & cheapeast option for me but having twin turbo setup on a RB25 NEO is pretty cool, i love the induction sound when on boost

atm it is pulling just a tad under 250rwkw at 1.3bar running R34 GTR turbos.

So who in sydney can take me for a spin at the next texi event that has -7s in their car to change my mind and stay on the twin turbo route?

[JD32R]

JD32R, on 12 October 2011 - 01:48 PM, said:

-running what i believe to be R34 Gtr N1 turbos / dash 7's

Im guessing you bought the car like that and havnt had them off to check? If you know they're the 7's, is suggest you save your money and dont change to -9's as they're SO close to each other its not worth the effort and expense to change them.

Lets say you do the swap, excluding labour here's some numbers to consider;

You need to buy;

Turbos $2190

Gaskets (manifold and turbo) $126.50

1 Bar actuators; $240

Total $2556.5

You then can sell the 7's to offset this cost. They seem to average about $1400 second hand, so you're out of pocket $1156.50 PLUS labour which I cant see being less than $350 at any shop so thats $1506.5 you're out of pocket assuming you can get $1400 for the old turbos.

My advice, ask Yavuz or Tyson very nicely to get out the bore scope and do their best to read the tag on the turbo's so you know what you've got on their currently.

^^Correct, i bought the car pretty much as it was, so havent had them off to check, but ill get the guys to have a look and see what they can determine.

Thats quite a bit, if they are only gonna give me that little bit extra, I am right into response, just want to get a bit more power, improve my shite fuel economy and have an all over street weapon. Judging from all the write ups the dash 5's are gonna just annoy me (usually drive around with my mate in his makkinen which is instantly on boost and very punchy) so want somethin streetable.

Thanks again for all the information on Gears, Injectors and pon cams.

Going to start looking up all those and ordering the correct ones.

Was slightly worried about cams, pistons etc as not quite at the stage where i want a full rebuild, however if the poncams can be done without the point of doing a full rebuild im behind that also.

Going to call up Unigroup and start talking over getting the tune done (dont worry will drop some names and sau - really need to sign up to be a nsw membership, ill chase that up).

Another thought id had was also hi flowing the turbos that are on there? is this a worth while venture or just better off to go with whats currently on there/swap to dash 9 down the track. (this is more likely the step after tuning/parts if at all, being the dash 7s are close 9s as you said).

thanks again mate.

JD

[Harey]

Nah if you want more power (and happy for more lag) get some -5s and sell the -7s. Dont bother hiflowing them. Otherwise, if you are all about response keep the -7s and get as much as you can out of em as you have already planned.