Definitive Guide To Building 300-330awkw Gt-r

[Sinista32]

Thanks again.

What would your reccomendation be on the dumps ?

[N1GTR]

34 GTR ones if the goal is anything under 330kw. The split design still works to over 400kw, so you'll be fine with what you've got. Tune it up and enjoy!

[Sinista32]

I'll post some results with details

[R31Nismoid]

I would gone different dumps, but for 300/320awkw it's not going to make much of a difference.

24psi peak, 8000rpm will be fine. Set the limiter for 8200 or so and fit a shift light to go off at 7500rpm.

You can do it with stock dumps, hell 380rwkw is no problem.

I put trust dumps on, the result overlayed with a car on stockers = same.

A question for the more knowledgable.

Wanting to know with a built RB26, supporting mods with -7's optimal RPM and boost setting PSI please.

Tomie Type A poncams 260 9.15

Chasing 300 or so awkws

Let me know if you need more build details

Turbo's will be out of puff by 7500rpm so you won't need to be taking it any further than that.

As for boost, set-up dependant. 20-24psi however expect the -7s to trail off to around 18psi by 8000rpm as again, they are just small.

They are on that early anyway you don't need to keep the boot in till 8000rpm

[N1GTR]

You can do it with stock dumps, hell 380rwkw is no problem.

I put trust dumps on, the result overlayed with a car on stockers = same

Which stock dumps though?

Starting with a 32, if you're after -7 power just stick 34 dumps on, for more power I would certainly choose different.

Trust being the same as stock is pretty shitty for the trust product.

As for running out of puff, sinista32 go back through this thread and look for the results I posted with dyno sheet and specs. That's a stock 73.7mm engine, you can see where power starts and drops off for yourself

[N1GTR]

Save you the time

Nice smooth curve all the way to 8000. No power drop off yet and boost dipping to 20psi. This is type b tomei cams on an otherwise stock engine.

[R31Nismoid]

Which stock dumps though?

Starting with a 32, if you're after -7 power just stick 34 dumps on, for more power I would certainly choose different.

Trust being the same as stock is pretty shitty for the trust product.

R33 GTR. Go measure R33 and R34 dumps. You'll be surprised at what you'll find out

Maybe they were Tomei, there were bigger, but really didn't offer anything other than a different exhaust note to be honest.

As for running out of puff, sinista32 go back through this thread and look for the results I posted with dyno sheet and specs. That's a stock 73.7mm engine, you can see where power starts and drops off for yourself

They'd already dropped off 4psi. Probably another 1psi if 300-400rpm more was used.

Also do a graph with the tractive effort etc, they just start to nose well over unfortunately.

Of course they are still "holding power", mine was as well, but actually drive them and they feel outta legs by 7500rpm as both boost & torque are disappearing fast.

You'll just grab the next gear out of feel more than anything else.

[R31Nismoid]

Interestingly they come on later than most other -7 results as well (most others are 22psi by 4300rpm)

Wonder if that is the cams having an effect.

[Sinista32]

Lol - just went to page one and read every post. Then got here and the graph was here.

I'm going to split difference and go 22 PSI and 7500 8000RPM.

Then drive by feel/sound.

Once again guys

Standard sort of rebuild

Engine

Fully reconditioned head

ARP Head stud kit

ACL race series engine bearings - Big end and main bearings

JE Pistons –.87mm

Eagle rods – H beam

Tomei Poncams, Type A - IN260/EX252 9.15 lift

NITTO RB Series High Volume Oil Pump

NITTO Drag Metal Head Gasket

NITTO Metal Intake/Exhaust Gasket

Custom flat pan 9.5L sump extension with internal baffles

Custom Made 2L oil catch can

NITTO crank shaft collar

Gates Timing belt

Nismo Engine Mount Kit (engine mounts, gearbox mounts etc)

Os Giken Adjustable Cam Gears

Os Giken Twin Plate Clutch

C's Short Shift

GTR stock Gearbox

Stock manifolds

Fuel System

Denso 700cc Power Enterprise injectors

Nismo high volume fuel pump

SARD Fuel rail

SARD fuel reg

Splitfire Coil pack

Engine Management

Haltech Platinum Sports 2000

Blitz Dual SBC

Induction/Exhaust

Garret 2860-7 Turbo’s

HKS Wastegate Adjustable Actuators

Apexi Super Suction Kit (Pod filters)

HKS hard Piping kit

Custom Made Cold Air Box

TRUST FMIC with HKS Piping

GTR Stock BOV's

XFORCE Dumps

NUR Spec R cat back

Decat pipe 3.5”

Koyorad Radiator

Tune to ?

22 PSI

Limited to 8000RPM

Goal = 310awkws ?

[sinistaGTR]

Why would you be aiming for 310kw with that motor, chuck on some -5s with better cams. Hell that motor has some decent parts in it to take a lot more than the figure you can achieve on a stock bottom end with those turbos.

[Sinista32]

Hey Dan. thanks

I'll drive this around for a while because it's what I have got (read cash strapped). I am sure I will get bored with 310kws.

Then when cash flow allows I can try to pick up a set of 2530's and different cams - perhaps by next christmas.

I'll search the forum for results on comparisons for the -5's and 2530's.

Lag is the enemy and i drive on the street mostly.

[sinistaGTR]

Hey Richard,

Ahh that makes sense lol, As you said im sure you will get bored. A nice set of cams with the -5s or 2830s will be pretty responsive and SO much fun....GL mate

[R31Nismoid]

Hey Dan. thanks

I'll drive this around for a while because it's what I have got (read cash strapped). I am sure I will get bored with 310kws.

Then when cash flow allows I can try to pick up a set of 2530's and different cams - perhaps by next christmas.

I'll search the forum for results on comparisons for the -5's and 2530's.

Lag is the enemy and i drive on the street mostly.

Having gone from -9s to -5s... Lag is indeed the enemy.

It was must more fun with the -9s on a a street driven car and in the hills (say 70-130km/h).

-5s IMO would be a bad choice and they are not as responsive, in between gears they are noticeably laggier too.

I also found I was dropping an extra gear everywhere to get more run. Where with the -9s you just don't because they were on earlier

They don't have the big top end so they don't feel "fast", as they are very linear.

[SiR_RB]

that dyno chart on this page shows -7 turbos making 22psi at about 4800rpm? thought they make full boost by 4000 give or take?

[MrStabby]

that dyno chart on this page shows -7 turbos making 22psi at about 4800rpm? thought they make full boost by 4000 give or take?

Yeah but "full boost" is a relative term, so not very useful. If that car was running 17psi boost, he would be making full boost at 4000, which is about right.

[Sinista32]

Sorry guys another silly question or 2

- where/how do you obtain NM of torque ?

- is it possible to stop the boost dropping off ?

[R31Nismoid]

1. Just a dyno setting. Use it instead of boost.

2. As i said earlier mate you won't stop the boost dropping off.

They are small turbos, it's just impossible for them to flow that much as thier purpose is not top end

[Piggaz]

They don't have the big top end so they don't feel "fast", as they are very linear.

having gone from RS's to -5's on my stroker, they most definitely don't 'feel' as fast, but the car is alot quicker in 97% of cases. It's not all about what your butt feels... Just look down at your speedo!

We all can whack on a T88... But be belted off the line from a Camry!

[Sinista32]

My GTR is back from the tuners.

The figures read a little high im thinking - 329.8akws @18psi. Dyno Dynamics in shootout.

I'm told AFM is between 11.8 and 12. Graph has Lambda readings which I dont know the conversion factor on.

All in all not bad but from 4500 to 5200 i get what I describe as a miss/fluttering/flat feeling.

I can rev out of it/passed it - eventually but it annoys me greatly. This is generally in 3rd/4th 50% of the time.

Sometimes it occurs at lower rpm in 1st/2nd. (bit like boost cut actually)

RPM set to 8200 through the Haltech.

Be lucky to get to 6500-7000rpm under real load on the road. I expected to be out of puff around 7500 on -7's

New NGK copper bcpres7es plugs.

I suspect gapped at 0.8mm as using an experienced tuner. (Although I havent looked, yet).

New Splitfire coil packs and loom.

If you have some advice I'd be glad to hear it.

The graphs appear jerky to me, from what I have seen through this thread. ie. no smooth curve.

Told it's to do with not being able to get the Gsensor on an angle.

I couldnt get a printout displaying Power/RPM/PSI. Had to use km/h at the base

PS. I will be chatting with my Tuner first but I am curious and it's Sunday...

[Sinista32]

Resolved and pulls like a freight train.Thanks for all your advice, appreciated.

Been enjoying it all weekend.