Definitive Guide To Building 300-330awkw Gt-r

[wolverine]

Also buying 2nd hand AFMs is also wasted money. If they start to fail or play up, you end up buying new ones or chasing gremlins.

Nah Ash, you get out your stanley knife and $10 soldering iron and go to the SAU DIY section, grab a beer, read up and settle in to bodge it up.

[FineLine]

The gtr came off the dyno at efi today. very happy with the results.

stock bottom end

Ported head with jun cams, springs etc.

gcg 35r on custom steampipe highrise with external gate.

750 cc jectas

Motec M8 puda

front mount etc.

made a stout 330 rwkw at 25 lb

Very smooth to drive and very happy with it.

Interesting to note that this setup is a couple hundred rpm laggier than the 37/88 on the 3 litre engine in the wheelchair.

ERD Dan is finishing off the catch can setup and then its rego time. Will be noice to have as a regular driver to take some k's off the other car.

[Piggaz]

What size cams Noel?

[FineLine]

What size cams Noel?

Not monsters Paul, about the same as tomei type B.

[mico]

nice mate well done, make sure it has a tracker if its a daily !!

[sydking]

ok im sure most of you have seen my threads/post on this topic but ive come across this and have read the thread start to finish.

Now, its point me in the right direction i just need to confirm a few things and would like constructive critisim .

Ok so the best place to start and give an idea of what im working with.

Engine: Rb26dett Rebuilt

ATI 600hp Harmonic balancer damper & pulley kit

N1 water pump

HKS oil pump

Tomei oil gallery orifice

ARP Head stud kit

Cometic Street Pro 87mm MLS head gasket

Nissan full gasket set

HKS step-2 valve springs

R34 Greddy N1 Street Special camshafts, R34 CAS

Ported & Flowed headwork

Greddy timing belt

Precision adjustable intake & exhaust cam gears

Drive key, tensioner & idler bearing kit

87mm CP Piston kit - full block tidy up

To add:

twins- From reading here its either -9's or 7's ( -5's i have thought about, But this is weekend street/hills/twsistys)

R34 Dumps

Front Mount to suit 2nd hand GTR most likely

split fires

ID1000's or sard 800's ( still need to read on this topic)

powerFC or nistune mabey even a vipec

Nismo AFM ( depends on ECU)

Jim berry clutch to match power

Forgot to mention is i will be using Keeping the GTS4 gear Ratios.

Now my aim is 350kw, pretty hesitant to chase big number for now and keep in mind this will be a street weekend car only, I walk to work and have a weekday run around

From what i gather and as some people would say simply -5's for power -9s for response and -7's for more resposne and a tad less power.

Im sure these figures can be made quite easy on a unopened block, And i have no doubt i can push some decent figures.

Idealy, Responsive -5's would be the choice for everyone, Though im assuming its just not possible as if so it would have been done before.

Any point in the right directions regarding the enigne build and supporting mods im going to be choosing?

ive got a few months before the work beings so im in no rush, I just want to do it once and do it right.

Edited February 2, 2012 by sydking

[N1GTR]

It's a process of elimination for this. -7's won't do 350kw, I've seen -9's reach 350kw (didn't have anything left to give) on a literally spare no expense build, -5's will get to 350kw without too much effort but as you should've read by now they get killed by 7's and 9's under 4500rpm, 5's really require a stroker engine.

It's not really hard, they all have their ratings and own characteristics-you need to decide for yourself which suits you best or on the flip side if you'll change your goal to allow a wider range of choices eg if you drop 30kw off your kw target you can have your choice of turbos.

Also if you havnt been in a car with that power before, don't get hung up on the number, there's 350kw cars that have such laggy power delivery that a well sorted 320kw one will have it most days. IMO you're better off with -9's and just run at 24psi and enjoy the result.

It's all well and good to say you've got a 350kw car but if it only makes peak power for 2000rpm it will be a shitbox to drive through hills and traffic even though it will feel fast due to the transition onto power. Food for thought

[Piggaz]

ok im sure most of you have seen my threads/post on this topic but ive come across this and have read the thread start to finish.

Now, its point me in the right direction i just need to confirm a few things and would like constructive critisim .

Ok so the best place to start and give an idea of what im working with.

Engine: Rb26dett Rebuilt

ATI 600hp Harmonic balancer damper & pulley kit

N1 water pump

HKS oil pump

Tomei oil gallery orifice

ARP Head stud kit

Cometic Street Pro 87mm MLS head gasket

Nissan full gasket set

HKS step-2 valve springs

R34 Greddy N1 Street Special camshafts, R34 CAS

Ported & Flowed headwork

Greddy timing belt

Precision adjustable intake & exhaust cam gears

Drive key, tensioner & idler bearing kit

87mm CP Piston kit - full block tidy up

To add:

twins- From reading here its either -9's or 7's ( -5's i have thought about, But this is weekend street/hills/twsistys)

R34 Dumps

Front Mount to suit 2nd hand GTR most likely

split fires

ID1000's or sard 800's ( still need to read on this topic)

powerFC or nistune mabey even a vipec

Nismo AFM ( depends on ECU)

Jim berry clutch to match power

Forgot to mention is i will be using Keeping the GTS4 gear Ratios.

Now my aim is 350kw, pretty hesitant to chase big number for now and keep in mind this will be a street weekend car only, I walk to work and have a weekday run around

From what i gather and as some people would say simply -5's for power -9s for response and -7's for more resposne and a tad less power.

Im sure these figures can be made quite easy on a unopened block, And i have no doubt i can push some decent figures.

Idealy, Responsive -5's would be the choice for everyone, Though im assuming its just not possible as if so it would have been done before.

Any point in the right directions regarding the enigne build and supporting mods im going to be choosing?

ive got a few months before the work beings so im in no rush, I just want to do it once and do it right.

Injectors I would go the ID 1000's. I have had the Sard 800's and my ID 2000's drive and idle better than the Sard's ever could. That was on a PFC and LINK G4. They will be bigger than you need for sure.

ECU: By the time you buy a FC and Nismo AFM's, you're almost at the money for a Link or a VIPEC. Go the Link or Vipec.

Water pump: Use a standard one. Its been covered quite alot on here.

Clutch: Some people swear buy them, having driven a few i'm not a fan. Nismo twin plate everytime.

Also a cheeky mod that you may want to do is the "Twin Turbo pipe mod". Have a search.

[sydking]

It's a process of elimination for this. -7's won't do 350kw, I've seen -9's reach 350kw (didn't have anything left to give) on a literally spare no expense build, -5's will get to 350kw without too much effort but as you should've read by now they get killed by 7's and 9's under 4500rpm, 5's really require a stroker engine.

It's not really hard, they all have their ratings and own characteristics-you need to decide for yourself which suits you best or on the flip side if you'll change your goal to allow a wider range of choices eg if you drop 30kw off your kw target you can have your choice of turbos.

Also if you havnt been in a car with that power before, don't get hung up on the number, there's 350kw cars that have such laggy power delivery that a well sorted 320kw one will have it most days. IMO you're better off with -9's and just run at 24psi and enjoy the result.

It's all well and good to say you've got a 350kw car but if it only makes peak power for 2000rpm it will be a shitbox to drive through hills and traffic even though it will feel fast due to the transition onto power. Food for thought

Yer agreed, TBH i wouldnet know the diff between a 300kw and 350kw car, as ive never been in one, Im only using numbers as thats all i can make a decision on based of what i read.

Ideally i would like to take a ride in each, Who knows, everyone is difrent, I might even not notice a bit of lag to enjoy the soild up top power of the -5's

But RE PSI if i chose -9's 24psi Would be minimum for me

[levinboy]

Yer agreed, TBH i wouldnet know the diff between a 300kw and 350kw car, as ive never been in one, Im only using numbers as thats all i can make a decision on based of what i read.

Ideally i would like to take a ride in each, Who knows, everyone is difrent, I might even not notice a bit of lag to enjoy the soild up top power of the -5's

But RE PSI if i chose -9's 24psi Would be minimum for me

I'm currently running -9s on built motor and on a "75%" tune I am making 329awkw at 18psi...full boost at 3500rpm

I say 75% as the engine is still tight after run in and my tuner has recommended an extended break in stage and after all checks so far looking good

We will eventually be cranking the boost to 22-24psi

As piggaz stated go the ID 1000s I'm running them and idle better then the Nismo 600cc I had (unless you want them they are for sale )

And Nismo twin plate the only choose worth every cent

[Piggaz]

Ideally i would like to take a ride in each, Who knows, everyone is difrent, I might even not notice a bit of lag to enjoy the soild up top power of the -5's

How long until the turbo choice is made? Give me a week or two and I will show you a -5's, although on a stroker, so not the best representation. Are you coming to Texi?

[levinboy]

How long until the turbo choice is made? Give me a week or two and I will show you a -5's, although on a stroker, so not the best representation. Are you coming to Texi?

if you need a -9 comparison would be happy to help

[sydking]

I will make my way down to the Texi

[sydking]

ok, 34 GTR vspec II Dump pipes are on there way, Was also offered Nismo Front pipes? Would they be ok for my application? havent even looked into front pipes yet

[Piggaz]

From memory the Nismo pipes are a little on the small side. Something like twin 60 mm into a 75 mm (I will double check when I get home). The HKS pipes which are twin 70 in to 85 are a much better option.

[sydking]

ok done, Just the GTR dumps then

[N1GTR]

NISMO ones will hit 350kw though no issues.

[sydking]

Might just grab them, $200 seems like a steal, what are my other options?

[N1GTR]

As said earlier in the thread a few times; any aftermarket Japanese front pipes will do for that power. It's just a matter of which brand you like to say you own.

[JD32R]

Also a cheeky mod that you may want to do is the "Twin Turbo pipe mod". Have a search.

Had a search of this: came across a great post on GTR-OC for anyone that is interested.

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/84482-testing-modified-twin-turbo-pipe.html

Has anyone done this?? what are the benefits? is it a safe and clean mod or will it lead to other things.

They refer to a shuffling? one member states it as the chipmunk noise, is this referring to the noise of the BOV's (might be a really dumb question) the talking bovs. mine makes the ba ba ba ba ba noise if you hold on boost then ease off abit.. mates Gtr did the same thing, is this just how they are on stock bovs??

If its a viable mod might be keen to get one through GTROC..

any help would be appreciated.