Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

-7s being a tad more responsive again (over -9) would be an excellent choice if response is your #1 goal.

FYI, here's stock vs -7 boost response (very few data points.....its rough) same engine and probably same cam timing.

med_gallery_15274_3730_6060.png

FYI, here's stock vs -7 boost response (very few data points.....its rough) same engine and probably same cam timing.

med_gallery_15274_3730_6060.png

I thought N1 turbos were different to -7 turbos?? The legend on your graph says N1 whereas your text says -7. I thought -7 were a lot more responsive then N1.

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey guys, great thread, some useful information in it.

i am slowly working on my car to achieve just this set up 300awkw

at the moment, i have just installed

GT2860-7 x 2 turbos

Tomei expreme dump pipes

already has a front pipe, and a hks preist cat back with a high flow 3" Catco cat. (looking at changing exhuast to one with a bit louder/better flow) any suggestions?? rear cannon style.

i have a vipec ecu (which i need to get retuned but going to wait till after mods) MAFless

it has pump incar already, so that is a non issue.

suspension is all done.

i am at the stage of buying injectors, i have been looking at seimens injectors, can anybody give me some info on which type to run if they know about seimens injectors? part numbers etc, im looking at about the 600cc mark for injectors

Also never really though about cam gears, but might also look into those b4 retune.

Cheers

Daz

ive got very similar mods to urs Daz.

im running 600cc nismo injectors with a sard intake fuel pump with a direct 14v power supply.

im also running GReddy cam gears, i think they are great on an RB26. they gave me more flexability when it came time for tuning. ie i had a choice between getting them tuned for outright power or sacrifice abit of top end for more midrange power/torque :)

ive got very similar mods to urs Daz.

im running 600cc nismo injectors with a sard intake fuel pump with a direct 14v power supply.

im also running GReddy cam gears, i think they are great on an RB26. they gave me more flexability when it came time for tuning. ie i had a choice between getting them tuned for outright power or sacrifice abit of top end for more midrange power/torque :)

Whats your max injector duty? What power is it making and what boost is that at?

+1 on cam gears

Not sure on injector duty, il have to find that out

296kw @ 19psi - cam gears adjusted for midrange, feels so responsive And just screams out of corners like a mofo :) I'm happy with it 100%

Duty couldn't be too high with 600s, im running 700s and only seeing max of 65% @ 350-360rwkw. Has a minor rail pressure bump so move it to 70-75%

600cc @ 300rwkw, rough stab would be 55-65%?

Had a good read of this thread before I started my round of mods for 300kw. My mods so far are

2860-9

Nismo 600cc

New PFC

HKS cam gears

Greddy dump/front pipe extension

Kakimoto Regu exhaust

Splitfire coil packs

Hasn't been tuned yet because of coilpack and EBC issues. But I'm hopeful I'll get close to cracking the 300 mark but at this stage I just want it tuned and running

Time and time again I see ppl try to estimate duty cycle in relation to power output but it seems like we are leaving out the most inportant fator which is afr.

A car with 600cc making 300rwkw tuned at 11.0afr will show higher duty cycle than if it was tuned to 12.0afr and making the same 300rwkw.

Can any one explain why my boost curve is fluctuating, at a glance i'd guess some sort of fuzzy logic function however im pretty sure the blitz spec r are theoretically just an open loop controller with simple duty cycle adjustment. The car is running the standard 8psi actuators on dash 7s and the blitz boost controller set to 86. When i eventually fit bigger dumps (i have stock 32), bigger afm and retune on e85, i'd like to run more boost. Is it worth while upgrading to 14psi actuators?

Cheers

Pat

l.jpg

Time and time again I see ppl try to estimate duty cycle in relation to power output but it seems like we are leaving out the most inportant fator which is afr.

A car with 600cc making 300rwkw tuned at 11.0afr will show higher duty cycle than if it was tuned to 12.0afr and making the same 300rwkw.

No different to estimating a dyno figure range or RPM turbos will come on.

There are always variables, however you can work out 'roughly' in most cases, hence its called an estimate...

Currently running -9s with 335kw, nismo 600cc injectors and fuel pump, with a max injector duty cycle of 86%

Just for reference

What air flow meters are using to get up to that figure? Are the standard still coping or have they been changed to Nismo or Z32?

My car is getting tuned in just under two weeks with -9s and 720cc injectors so i'm thinking the AFM's are going to be the next limiting factor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...