Jump to content
SAU Community

Coil Pack On Fire?

zertek

By zertek,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

zertek Proficient

zertek

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys,

My R32 drift car decided it didnt want to start the other day (The motor is an RB25det) so i had a look today and found a problem.

first thing i noticed is my spark plugs were wet with fuel, so this tells me im not getting any spark. As i got to the last coilpack and spark plug i noticed alot of charcoal around that area of the valley. The spark plug was all sooty on the section where the coil pack connects, i then looked at the coilpack itself, the rubber boot was a bit warped and the previously blue silicon it was covered in is now brown. (I've coated all the coil packs in silicon to prevent waste spark.)

so there is a problem with this coil pack. But i still cant workout why the others are not firing? I checked the ground wire that connects to the rear coilpack bracket (the one that has been cooked). and the wire seems to be fine. If the back coil pack is screwed, the other coilpacks should still work thus allowing the car to start and run on 5 cylinders? or am i wrong?

VIDeO vv

cheers guys, any help welcome :P

Edited by zertek
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236474-coil-pack-on-fire/
Share on other sites
James_03 Mentor

James_03

Posted
Posted

If you have a multimeter check the output on the coil pack plugs to see if you getting 12V with ign on and constant earth, then crank it and see if your getting a firing signal earth from the ignitor.

I would agree that the ignitor is probably damage after that but. I don't think it has anything to do with the silicon you have used, just a coil pack gone bad. If you don't have a multimeter just rig up a 12v test light will do the same job.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • DraftySquash
      R34 GTT Central Locking Pains

      By DraftySquash · Posted

      Speaking of diverting threads, my second ever NISMO purchase…. I think they look pretty classy and just wanted to share 😅   PS: 1st was the oil drain plug 😂  
    • GTSBoy
      Need AC Compressor for R32

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      R12 has not been not available for....decades now. Propane is not a great replacement. (I mean, it's a great replacement, but it is a bit too flammable). R134a being the only way to go forward with an R12 system. The design pressures etc, are close enough to R12's to work. The ability to move heat around is close enough to R12's to work.
    • soviet_merlin
      Need AC Compressor for R32

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Out of curiosity, what's the reason for converting? I think @R3N3 might have the Frenchy's kit in the R33? I somehow think of you as the ambassador for realistic and clean street-driven setups nowadays  
    • V35_Paul
      V35 Overheat + Coolant Boil & Overflow + Engine not Starting

      By V35_Paul · Posted

      careful when running the car after a boil over. Ive heard you can lose enough coolant that it won't show the right temps because of too much air in the system (or something like that). Make sure the levels are good before trying again.  Maybe a mobile mechanic can come have a look with their scan tool ?
    • GTSBoy
      Need AC Compressor for R32

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      OK, just for some extra clarity - there is more than one option at Frenchy's. 1. You can buy the whole kit - with or without the actual compressor. The whole kit includes mounts, hoses, condensor, etc. That's either ~$2200 or ~$2800. No surgery required with this option. 2. You can buy just the bracket (~$600), or the bracket with the compressor (~$1200). Either of this or the above option "without the compressor" is if you already have an Echo comp or you are able to source one locally. Whatever the case, in this option, you will need surgery done on your hoses to adapt to the new compressor. When I said "the Frenchy's kit", I meant the whole kit in option 1. It is obviously somewhat more $$ than a $1500 OEM compressor. But if I had to spend $1500 on an OEM compressor, I would certainly consider spending double that to renew and significantly update everything forward of the firewall. Another option is to rebuild your original compressor. My R34 comp is currently dead and I will be most likely doing that to it if the spare one in the shed is also leaky.
×
×
  • Create New...