R32 Air Conditioning

[brad20]

Just done a bit more reading and found out it may be the magnetic clutch or the fuse, but the fuse layout on the box is all written in Jap so if anyone has a layout of the fuses for an R32 so I can workout which fuse is the one for the a/c that would be great. I have been searching on here for a fuse layout but having no luck

[white_skyline_r32]

Is there an outside air sensor because when i press amb it says its -31 so my air conditioner does kick in

[MrStabby]

Just done a bit more reading and found out it may be the magnetic clutch or the fuse, but the fuse layout on the box is all written in Jap so if anyone has a layout of the fuses for an R32 so I can workout which fuse is the one for the a/c that would be great. I have been searching on here for a fuse layout but having no luck

Can you read this;

I got the sticker from ebay - worth having.

IIRC its the top row fourth from that right that blows when the mag clutch dies. IIRC the winding is supposed to be 3.5 ohms - mine was half that and blowing fuses before i replaced it. If you dont hear the clutch throw with a click when you turn the AC on, its a good place to start looking.

[brad20]

That's awesome Kotter, just went out and had a look at the 10A fuse and what do you know, it's blown! So does that mean my windings are no good?

[MrStabby]

Put another fuse in - if it blows again soonish, then yeah check the windings. It took mine a few hours of air con operation before it blew again.

[Nobi-Skratch]

Hey guys,

I too am going through R32 air con problems. My servo motor is moving, I had my air con re gassed and serviced but no luck. I found a way to run the air con in diagnostic mod and the A/C does get cold in that mode... Just not in normal mode.

According to the following my outside sensor is causing the problems.

So if you need to test you sensors here is the instructions for Diagnostic mode.

Climate Control Diagnostics R32

The climate control has a diagnostic mode.

Enter the diagnostic mode by pressing the OFF button for five seconds within ten seconds of turning the ignition on.

Sensor check

Sensor check is selected by pressing HOT switch (the red triangle) while in diagnostic mode. The microcomputer detects whether each sensor input signal is within correct parameters. The results are displayed on the screen.

If normal, a "20" is displayed.

If abnormal the failed sensor number is displayed. The sensor numbers are as follows:

20 - all is normal

21 - outside air sensor

22 - Inside air sensor

23 - Water temperature sensor

24 - Intake temperature sensor

25 - Sunload sensor (small sensor on the left hand side of the dashboard near the windscreen)

26 - PBR

27 - Refrigerant temperature sensor

This should tell you if any of your sensors are faulty

Link:

http://skylineownersusa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47

hope this helps.

[Godzilla32]

Low or no A/C gas will trip the pressure switch causing the compressor not to kick in. More often than not its actually a gas leak thats the reason for no A/C.

[biddy]

Since buying my car about 4 months ago the a/c has never worked. with the recent heat wave I thought i'de better do something about it. Put it into dianostic mode and came up with 25 and 27. 25 as expected. the sensor relating to 27 kept fluctuating from -30 to 0 and +30. I disconnected and bridged the connections which gave me a constant 46 degrees. You hear the a/c switch to full mode but the compressor does'nt kick in. After further investigation I discovered that the 2 electrical connections on the compressor were disconnected to I reconnected them thinking this was the problem but it made no difference. I've checked all fuses which appear ok, so I disconnected the plugs again to check the voltages. The plug with the 2 wires read 0.2 volts each to earth. The single cable plug read 0.045 volts obviously no where near enough to make a compressor work. Does this pressure switch cut power to the compressor? If so can you bypass it so I can at least see if the compressor works. Also does this sound like a no gas situation.

Sorry for the long post but really need to do as much of the investigation myself before taking to be re-gassed.

[biddy]

Ok so i'm going to answer my own questions. Guess I should have done a bit more investigating first. After reading a few more posts I went and checked the pressure switch which was ok. Followed back to relay. Bridged the connections and hey presto A/C now works. Incidentally the relay next to it that controls the thermo fan which is the same is also knackered. Hence why I've never heard it come on even on 42 degree days. So looks like I'll be getting 2 new relays tomorrow.

[Godzilla_400R]

My problem is no air is comming out from the face vent or foot vent no matter which position i set it at air is just coming out from the front glass area onli

wats the go wif that

the thing is i got a guage in the side face vent so they must of did something to stop air coming out from the vents

Edited January 26, 2010 by Godzilla_400R

[Toms32]

Mine seems to be doing the same as above but mine is stuck on feet. Anyone know where the plug or motor is for the controller that directs air to face, feet or de mister or what might be causing this?

[noone]

From all accounts the relays are the same as patrol from the same vintage much cheaper than the $60 Nissan wanted

[hcR324door]

i too am having problems trying to get my ac working too, just would like to know if with ac on does clutch engage and stay on and not come on and off like other cars, if that makes any sense. any help much appreciated

[hcR324door]

does anybody know???????

[Marko R1]

Thanks Rekin for the pics, you're a champ m8 ;-)

Mine had the exact problem as you've described. The servo arm dosen't move when I cycle through cold and hot. But when I wiggle the plug while doing that, the servo arm moved. So I tried taping up the wires, pushing the wires upwards, and all sort of other things.... but still have the same issue.

Eventually I was able to find a fix, the trick is to apply a slight pressure on the actual plug towards the right (back of the car). There is a rectangular void on the left of the plug and all I did was stuff some paper in there to create that pressure and the problem solved. I was able to get cold air again!! Bloody awesome. Thanks Rekin!

oops double post

Edited February 24, 2010 by Marko R1

[Marko R1]

Thanks Rekin for the pics, you're a champ m8 ;-)

Mine had the exact problem as you've described. The servo arm dosen't move when I cycle through cold and hot. But when I wiggle the plug while doing that, the servo arm moved. So I tried taping up the wires, pushing the wires upwards, and all sort of other things.... but still have the same issue.

Eventually I was able to find a fix, the trick is to apply a slight pressure on the actual plug towards the right (back of the car). There is a rectangular void on the left of the plug and all I did was stuff some paper in there to create that pressure and the problem solved. I was able to get cold air again!! Bloody awesome. Thanks Rekin!

this is great info - i had similar problems where my air mix actuator for the foot area would get stuck & wouldnt allow me to go from cold>hot & vice versa.

when i ran my diagnostics the error in 'step 3' as per workshop manual appeared as number '34' which stated it was the air mix door that controls the foot area...i will try the piece of paper or zip tie trick to see if that works as the servo runs when it feels like it.

[bert_]

is that servo the one that changes which vent the air will flow out of?

[Marko R1]

no, its adjusts hot/cold temp

[bert_]

okay thanks. haha found the mode servo, its on the driver side by the knee.

[Marko R1]

That's the 1

Once u pop your head under the dash all is revealed, a bit like picking up a good sort