Jump to content
SAU Community

How To: Stop The Door Open Beep


jase33
 Share

Recommended Posts

hey just did mine, different way though.

entry is via the small pull out section near bonnet release.

on the right hand side, under the steering wheel is a black box with 'smart entry' on it, size is about 4cm by 7cm

undo 2 screws to take the box off the holding bracket.

take out white plastic plug from box. (sticks in there pretty good)

the black surround around where the plug went comes out, you will see where u can put in a screwdriver to jimmy it out.

take out the circuit board.

match up where the actual beeper is from where the audio holes are on the side (it is a round black cylinder abour 5c piece in diamater and 10 cm high)

CAREFULLY either:

1- prize it off with a flathead screwdriver and pull out the terminals with some needle nose pliers gently (i did it this way easily)

2- get a solder iron and reheat/undo the conection from the back

put everything back the way you found it :D

this way it wont phuk with you alarm or windows or anything else, cos everything is as it was, just no noise cos obviously no beeper :(

btw car was a r33gtst S2, should take about 20 mins max, have fun

thats what i did. works a treat. left my headlight on once tho lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Here is my tutorial on how to remove the beep for a R34 - i acctually remove a plug straight from the ignition drum - it should be the exact same concept for r32 - r33 's and you also keep the beep for when you leave your lights on and open the door (which is very handy) - it doesnt effect your alarm or windows or mirrors or anything else expcept for when you leave the keys in and open the door!!

D.I.Y - Tutorial - Get rid of R34 beep > http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...ep-t242701.html <h

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Actually I just figured out how to do it..

There's a button near the door weld - where the actual locking mechanism is for the door.

I pushed that in and it worked a charm - i just used some masking tape

Quick and easy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you do realise now that if someone takes a fancy to your car and decides to steal it when they brake the lock and open the door your alarm wont go off? that button you taped up is the door trigger lol!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

Just checked out the wiring for this door beep on my R33 Series 2. The black with purple stripe wire is correct with the first post, however I did it a different way that required no cutting.

On the ignition barrel, there are a couple of wires going into a clip that directly plugs to the barrel and there are 2 wires that appear hard wired to the barrel but about 5 - 10cm down there is a clip for them (a bit like a fly lead). The first plug is for the lights so don't touch that one. The one on the side that has the sorta flylead is the one you want to unclip (for the r33 s2 it was a black flat plug).

All headlights, power windows and mirrors still work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...
  • 1 month later...
i should also add that in a series 1 its to the left hand side of the glove box housing,not in the same place as the series 2's. check my tut for the series 1 version.

I got to doing this today on my S1, the 'smart entrance' box is indeed behind the glove box housing...

Smart%20entrance%20box.jpg

Removed the glove box, unscrewed the six Parkers, and disconnected the wire on these shitty pictures;

Smart%20entrance%20box%20plug.jpg

Key%20beep%20wire.jpg

If you just unplug it, and take off the black plastic cover, remove the piece of plastic locking the connector in the plug, and remove the lower left and right wires on the side of the small connector.

Lower left being the green wire triggering the auto-lock for the passenger door, and lower right being the black/purple-ish wire for the door-beep.

Edited by stefan-w
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hooray. Ive finally worked it out.

You know the beep that happens when youre trying to work on your pride and joy and listen to some music with the door open and all you can hear is the "beep beep beep".

Well I found the control box to fix it

You have 2 options to fix this.

1. Get a ridiculously loud sound system, and annoy the neighbours...

or 2. Cut a wire.

I went for option 2 because I like my neighbours.

Located under the dash on the drivers side is a little black box labelled "smart entrance".

There is a black wire with a purple stripe on it. Cut it and wrap electrical tape over the ends.

Thats it.

This does not mean that when you leave your lights on you wont get that beep, you still will.

Thanks to Jack88 for informing me of the colour of the wire. ;)

This is my first DIY so I hope it is helpful and not pathetic!!

Cheers, Jase. :yes:

thanks mate i really interested in that 2 thanks for the pics

Link to comment
Share on other sites

easiest way i done it is take suround off ignition barrel and there is 2 red wires attached to the barrel unplug that black plug and no more door beep and the beep still works with the lights on as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • People still have Skylines? I thought they're non-existent now. 
    • Harness update time have had great fun and learnt so much already so far with this project. I started off making both the ignition and injector sub harnesses in the hope any mistakes i made here aren't as hard to undo and learn from as the main harness.  A cool comparison of the old harness using presumably TXL wire and the new which is using Tezel. Also opted to use DTM plugs to keep the whole setup as neat and tidy as possible and tucked the wiring under the coil bracket to try and keep it all from sticking out too much. Although the injector harness, I'm not overly happy with as I'm still using the rubber boots that are supplied with the type of plugs it just looks ugly and sticks out like a sore thumb with the white identifiers so a slight redesign may be done.   Then it was main harness time and most importantly trying to route it nice and away from the heat it will use the OEM heater hose routing which is no longer present to keep the harness up high and secure. it's amazing how much smaller this harness is able to be compared to the old one. plugged everything into the emtron and with the help of the tuner again attempted to start it up and instantly fired up and running smoothly on all 6 which was a big shock to myself. So still some routing and adjusting to be done for the final fit up and installing a knock sensor harness plug which is in the post all has gone surprisingly well.     The old harness for shits and giggles.
    • They do that at random every now and then, with almost no detectable cause. Mine has done it a couple of times (over 25 years!!). Never worked out why.
    • I don't post on here and have been lurking for some time now. Many of the topics have helped me out more times than i can count. I was racing yesterday (11/9) and blew a front right CV shaft. I have spares so I popped a new one in. A thread i read previously said to check the engine mounts if you blow a front CV. Upon inspection, the front right mount was completely separated from the upper plate. This discovery saved me time and money, because i would have blown another CV if i went back out. Just wanted to thank you guys and wish everyone luck with with their builds. (Now if we could only come up with a solution for my power steering belt flying off after hitting the rev limiter, lol)
    • Either way he still need those style of spacer to go into the manifold because the photo he currently has is not going to work 
×
×
  • Create New...