Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ya I actually unbolted it from the other end in my frustration. Which was fine.. until the gear slipped while I was resoldering. Now i'm mucking around trying to get the position correct again. I'd definitely recommend lock the gear in place before you do anything :cool:.

  • 5 months later...
Just another FYI. There is a plug in the centre console opposite the cigarette lighter. If that is unplugged the climate control will stay on hot.

Thanks heaps Sarumatix!

Turned out to be the plug in the center console giving me constant heat. I pulled my whole dash apart to fix the heater core and this is the one plug I forgot to plug back in. One side of the plug is attached to the same loom as the cigarette lighter. It has two wires, brown and green I think. Check this plug if you have been messing around with your dash. I'm so happy to get this fixed!

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
  • 1 year later...

my climate control will only blow hot or warm air. i then unplugged the cabin temp sensor and now it only blows ambient/outside air,

anyway here is what i got from the diagnosis mode can anyone help?

-26 = blend door fault.

and my sensors

22.5

22.5

32

-30

checked the blend door and it wasnt moving with temperature settings so i unplugged it and cleaned the plug and refitted it and now the blend door actuator is working. so i think i just need a/c gas.

it actually ended up being my intake temperature sensor and not the refrigerant sensor, so i need to put a 5ohm resistor across the plug behind the glove box right?

now my condensor fan never turns on so i decided to bridge the a/c relay and when i did i heard a clunk and the fan still stayed off. i was happy when i heard the clunk as something is engaging, so does anybody know what the clunk is and how to get the condensor fan working?

  • 1 year later...
  • 10 months later...

So hopefully someone can help me out here.

Months ago i managed to wiggle the plug and get servo door to move to HOT. Now I've gone though and reflowed the solder (2 were cracked), which I figured would solve the problem. However I ran the diagnostics test and get faults 21,22,23,24,25,26,27 (every sensor), then get 30 indicating that the actuator is working, even though its still not moving when i cycle between hot and cold.
Any suggestions?

I'm reading about a/c for about a hour now.. no one mentionned my problem ;

Fan will only blow air at fan 4. nothing at 1,2,3. Have a clue what this could be?

fan resistor - replace it.

So hopefully someone can help me out here.

Months ago i managed to wiggle the plug and get servo door to move to HOT. Now I've gone though and reflowed the solder (2 were cracked), which I figured would solve the problem. However I ran the diagnostics test and get faults 21,22,23,24,25,26,27 (every sensor), then get 30 indicating that the actuator is working, even though its still not moving when i cycle between hot and cold.

Any suggestions?

try another controller. that would be a start. I do not see everything failing on that car.

  • 4 weeks later...

hi, new to the skyline world with a 32 gtst, my aircon is not working, it has gas, the system seems fine, it just doesnt blow cold, then i tested to see if it would blow hot air, it doesnt, so it only blows normal outside air,

is there a way to open the system to only blow the cold ac air? or do i need to strip it down and resolder the switch, i looked to check the rod and it doesnt move

  • 2 weeks later...

very helpful info thanks for the write up. I'm currently looking for another r32 GTR and out of ten cars ive test driven only two have working air conditioning. (ie blows cold air and work through all the different cycle's, operating modes and correct temperature. Just as a FYI i got a quote to convert R12 system to R134a for an R32 GTR. Looking between $1000-1500 for drive in drive out with a brand new 134 suitable compressor, lines, new seals labour etc

  • 2 months later...

Hi guys,

I just had my a/c regassed with r134a on my r32GTR and it works very well. The mechanic questioned why the a/c does not run when the a/c is turned on...we tested the relay and that is fine and checked all the fuses. Apparently it's quite dangerous to run the a/c without the fan as the pressure can build high enough to explode.

My question is what triggers the electric fan, is it the a/c or the engine when it gets too hot?

See post 47/49..

Educate mechanic. As long as the engine is running the engine fan will be pulling more than enough air past the aircon section. If the engine isn't running you don't need to worry about the aircon..

  • Like 1

Thanks and funnily enough I did the diode mod as mentioned in the above posts on my previous gtr...I'm losing my mind :)

See post 47/49..

Educate mechanic. As long as the engine is running the engine fan will be pulling more than enough air past the aircon section. If the engine isn't running you don't need to worry about the aircon..

  • 11 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Hi guys,

I just had my a/c regassed with r134a on my r32GTR and it works very well. The mechanic questioned why the a/c does not run when the a/c is turned on...we tested the relay and that is fine and checked all the fuses. Apparently it's quite dangerous to run the a/c without the fan as the pressure can build high enough to explode.

My question is what triggers the electric fan, is it the a/c or the engine when it gets too hot?

then the mechanic is a dipshit, it can be modded to come on with ac, and that will improve ac performance expecially at idle conditions, However it will not explode, there is a high pressure cut out switch (normally part of the low pressure cut switch to) and if he gassed up a car that doesnt have one, then hes not doing his job properly as its part of the code of practice for automotive ac, and guess what the high pressure cut out switch does long before the presssures get high enough to burst a hose.....it turns off the ac

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Tried them, they leaked. I also foolishly bought some random rubber ones that leaked too.  Genuine and not looked back.    As always though sample size of one, and I could have made a mistake installing them. 
    • Technically still manual process to set it first time though
    • Shit job but not hard. I'd use a piece of wood to knock the plastic lid open to avoid damaging it, use a vacuum to clean up the fuel sender lid also so crap doesn't fall in. I'd probably do pump and filter at the same time since you're already in there, I reused my OEM sock after a quick clean since the one provided wasn't long enough. Could also hardwire your pump if you feel inclined.
    • Supercheap auto sell this: https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/pat-plusquip-fuel-tank-lock-ring-tool---universal-kit/SPO3564082.html I own this and if you HAVE PATIENCE you can remove it without snapping lines and generally being incredibly angry, then said at doing this job. Sadly I've removed the pump about 75,000 times over the years. I don't know if you're a large lad or a smaller lad but my advice to you as someone who is 185cm is if you are my height or smaller, is to sit in the boot and take your time. Yes you can put the seal on. The seal goes over the white thing/lid (you will see how it 'slots' in) then the whole assembly presses into the tank. then you screw the lock ring on. I spent so much time doing things the wrong way by trying to mount the seal into the tank first, then putting the white fuel hat on in the space provided. Put it together first then it'll all go in. But seriously be careful about removing the hoses AND where the removal tool is moving relative to the plastic pipes coming out of the lid when you've removed it. IT IS BRITTLE So brittle in fact I have two spare lids, and would recommend buying a spare and having it handy before attempting to do this. May as well throw https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD in the tank as well, as this uses all stock plugs and such. You may need to/strongly recommend you re-use your OEM fuel sock or use the one supplied with a length of hose so it sits at the stock height.
    • The tension is automatic....if you follow the installation instructions Self adjusting tensioners are used when the chain/belt is expected to stretch during it's service life, but the downside is the tensioner itself can fail and cause a problem, while the RB system is locked once it is installed and doesn't have that risk
×
×
  • Create New...