Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 87
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Wrecking a complete car in melb

r33 gtst series 2

sold items are:

headlights

bonnet

front bar + rio

driver side windows switch

center console and dash fashia

items avaliable are the rest of the car

engine and gearbox manual 80k km inc computer = $3000

front calipers and rear brakes and calipers inc discs ABS= $600

rear end complete abs = $500 inc clipers and brakes and cradle

cluster =$200

doors complete motor window and reg door hangle and lock= $260 each

rear window = $150

side 1/4 windows tinted dark= 80 each

boot lid inc spoiler = $200

3 inch exhaust from front pipe steel inc cat near new $400

18 inch gold pro N1 BLACK RACING rims with bridgstone s03 235 40 18 tyres with 60% tread on em $1000

rear tail lights = $200 pair

skyline garnish $70

rear bar = $80

complete boot carpet and side trims = $150

complete seats inc door trims = $400

mirrors = $50 each

parcel shelf = $50

interior carpet $80

seat belts = $ 150 set

roof linning = $60

sunvisors = $50 pair

front steering rack = $100

front k frame complete $150

front hub assembleys = $150 each side

left and right guards $ 100 each

side skirts $ 150 pair minor crack on one not on visable section

rear pods 400r i think $100 pair

indicator stalk = $50

steering coloum $ 70

panel cuts also avaliable

pedal box = $100

cluch cyclinder $ 70

brake cyclinder $70

brake booster $70

climate control unit $80

front floor mats $40

heater air con box complete $ 150

dash no air bags $80

steering wheel immac no airbag $60

condenser $50

if there is anything not listed just ask for it i will have it for sure

Pick up in reservior call 0402090079

all items must be sold all prices are negoable no stupid offers please want to make someting back on my loss

Mate do you have any of the following?

Fog lites

raditor

radiator support bar (front cross bar bracket)

a/c condensir

grill

front right fender

let me know

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...