Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

A while back I tried wiring some strobe lights up to my cigarette lighter, accidentally shorted it out twice and blew 2 fuses. I've since replaced them, but I still have no power to the lighter. I've tested the fuse and there seams to be power to both sides, but from there back nothing.

I was thinking maybe a short somewhere (that's how the power is flowing through the fuse) but I can't follow the wires through maze behind the dash.

I'm not the best when it comes to electronics, Being an apprentice mechanic means I'm better with a spanner then a multimeter!!

Any help woud be appreciated

Thanks,

Rhys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236851-no-power-to-my-cigarette-lighter/
Share on other sites

there's the possibility that the wiring from the cigarette lighter to earth has melted before the fuse blew. That means you'll still have 12 V to either side of the fuse, assuming the negative probe of the multimeter/test lamp goes to a proper earth.

Hey guys,

A while back I tried wiring some strobe lights up to my cigarette lighter, accidentally shorted it out twice and blew 2 fuses. I've since replaced them, but I still have no power to the lighter. I've tested the fuse and there seams to be power to both sides, but from there back nothing.

I was thinking maybe a short somewhere (that's how the power is flowing through the fuse) but I can't follow the wires through maze behind the dash.

I'm not the best when it comes to electronics, Being an apprentice mechanic means I'm better with a spanner then a multimeter!!

Any help woud be appreciated

Thanks,

Rhys

lol man that is my biggest worry when di(king around with my wiring. Atleast it was just the cigarette lighter hey.

The mechanic who helped build the R33 I currently own tried to hook up the previous owners gauges and tacho and blew the dash and tacho.

The tacho was one of those splitfire one's with multiple gauges and flames and IT ACTUALLY CAUGHT FIRE. The guy I bought the car off was sh!tting his pants(and I understand) as he thought the mechanic had just fried the haltech but thank Fu(k he didnt.

Anyway sorry to hijack and good luck.

So it had VERY realistic looking flames? :P

The light works on it, I've hooked my strobe lights up to it, but there is no power at all going to the cigarette lighter. I've tested the ground and theres no problems there, also the light works on the same ground, so obviously thats not an issue. I'm going to splice it into my head unit power wire and hope that fixes it. If not... take it to an auto electrician who can fix all my dodgy wiring!!

  • 4 weeks later...

is it just ur cig lighter thats not working wen u stick it in?...my phone charger works wen i shove it in but my ciggy lighter doesnt heat up wen i press it in :P ...stuffd lighter?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy Haven't really thought of that yet, but you are right. If the hose was damaged it should be absolutely pissing by now. I'll put some heat sleeve around it for good measure since I'm already removing the line anyway.  Maybe I'll put on some of the stock hardlines if I ever fully remove the turbos again. Maybe when T51R modding the compressor housings? Might be a fun mod on GT28s for that "fake single turbo" effect.
    • Update 1: I did some work on the car already before finalizing this post and my "issues" list. I dropped the Tomei exhaust in favor of the HKS Hi Power Silent. Sounds nice and I can actually hear myself think now. Also gives me a realistic chance to legally drive without silencer inserts. A bit of cheating was necessary to still be able to mount the Top Secret style diffuser. Some malusage of washers and a bit of "convincing" toward the brackets and exhaust hanger seemed to do the trick. The shaky steering wheel has been resolved as various suspension components were worn, like sway bar bushings and link bars. Most notably the two steering tie rod ends. Had some trouble finding bushings because my sway bars are not OEM thickness, 23.x up front and 27 rear. But non adjustable, so no aftermarket I suppose. Maybe they are nismo units? Turbo oil drain hoses were definitely still the originals and are new now. Wasn't the cause of the turbo oil leak sadly. Currently removing the rear turbo because of it, I suspect the braided oil feed line is the culprit. This issue needs to be dealt with so I can work towards actually getting the turbo setup legal and inspected. Two new issues to add to the list as well. Rear Main seal is probably leaking. Time will show how bad it is, I don't really want to drop the gearbox right now just for the stupid seal. Could fix a few other things in one go once I do that. Front right driveshaft grease is going past the cv boot, so at some point I'll fix that too.
    • Ok so no 4cyl clutch... Yeah it is a factory manual. So if iam correct i need clutch and flywheel too? I can use something that suits something like R32 GTST?   EDIT: https://www.ebay.com/itm/224291042776 Is this ok?   EDIT2: i maybe forget to mention this(dk how important it is) but the trans will be behind RB25DET NEO(iam doing swap) It will be there for a little while. Iam planing to do bigbox or BMW tranny..
    • You're probably right about that one. Thanks for your suggestions, I hope I don't need a new 3rd brake light. Although wiring issues might arguably be worse. Right now I'm in the midst of a turbo removal because of my oil leak, other problems are going to have to wait for now.
    • Hell, I know that much. So far I just put it off as "part of the deal".
×
×
  • Create New...