Jump to content
SAU Community

Your thoughts   

43 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Just an update on NXT 2.0. some tests on an world forum has shown that NXT 2.0 durability is fairly descent compared to V1 giving up to 2 month protection, the Wax just out performed the liquid so it is getting there. Hey and how many of us love detailing our rides every month or so? so the durabilty would not be an issue if you top it.

Edited by R31Heaven

Yeah, i found the durability of the NXT gen stuff to be a problem. It was really smooth after polishing, but i even noticed a difference (less smooth) after one wash. So i went back to the Meguiars Gold Class polish and shampoo. I think its important to use the same shampoo and polish for lasting durability.

I dont really understand why Meguiars has so many sub brands of polish. NXT, Gold Class, Wet Look, Yellow Carnuba, Cleaner wax etc. I wish i knew what the pros and cons of each was.

Also, ive had problems with the products 'going off' over an extended period of time. I must have 30 different Meguiars products in may garage, and ive gone to use an old Cleaner wax and could hardly remove it from my car after application.

The quick clay is awesome for bonded contaminants and over spray.

Rant over.

  • 2 weeks later...

good point, detail mine every 2nd month or so, well after being away for a while gave the ride a quick wash and she came out looking very shmick, same as just after the wax, so im happy. been pretty lousy weather too.

  • 4 weeks later...

I was actually gonna send Meguiars a Email. After using the Next gen tire shine after a couple of days of driving it comes off and ends on the guard, causing it to stain the paint on both rear panels. A slight cut takes it off but if you look closely there is still a small amount of tire shine on the panel.

Abit annoying when if it was worse i would need a whole rear quarter spray.

Luke

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...