Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just out of curiosity has anyone used one of these ?

On their site they mention a version that has an adapter loom to plug into an R33 GTS25T - but uses map sensing .

From what I hear one of their selling points is that it runs constantly in learning mode so is supposed to be able to adapt to changing circumstances .

Anyone ?

a very good friend of mine is running an adaptronic on his beams 3sge, and it seems to do the job quite well, we hook the laptop up to it regularly, im not sure on the model but it has all the tuning capabilities of the big brand computers, and a lot cheaper than them also, and there Australian company as well ?? , but he is more than happy with it, and another mate is looking into getting the plug and play option for his 25det also

I run the adaptronic on my rb20det made 320hp on 18psi with a 2876r on the side of it.

Appears very easy to use, has Self tuning and closed loop only downside which really isn't to much of a downside is it only has 4 injector outputs, But this will be changed in the new model comming out next year. I picked mine up new for $990

Heres a couple of screenshots from my tune.

post-23119-1222055566_thumb.jpg

post-23119-1222055578_thumb.jpg

post-23119-1222055591_thumb.jpg

post-23119-1222055600_thumb.jpg

If you want to see any of the other screens let me know :blush:

Edited by murrayis

I run one,

Ran my RB25DET and now is running my RB25/30DET.

Absolutely no issues with it.

If you look on the field apps page at the white R33 that's on there. That's my one.

It can be ran in one of 4 modes.

Open Loop, uses no O2 feedback

Closed Loop, Uses O2 feedback and trims the maps by a percentage, this percentage is erased each time the engine is started.

Slow converge, uses O2 feedback to SLOWLY modify the fuel values in the fuel map. This takes a long time, and is good to run in to get the maps just perfect at cruise.

Fast Learn, uses O2 feedback and very quickly makes changes to the map. Running in this mode is for tuning only really, whack it in this mode with a wideband, when the fuel map is a fair way out, or you've just made some changes to the setup and need to retune.

ECU also has features such as Launch Control, Traction Control, a few boost cuts, air temp correction, water temp correction, Soft rev limits, and hard rev limits, log direct onto a laptop, also has the video controller that plugs into a 7" tv screen as an extra unit.

The Map sensor, is also tapped into the wires that run to your AFM, so you unplug your AFM, T into these wires, and wire the map sensor in (3 wires that you have to solder and tape in) and then connect the Map sensor in physically. The loom is a simple plug and play. Go nuts setup. Works perfectly.

Any questions, PM me.

They are a very capable unit, however i have issues with andy selling plug and play units without an Air temp sensor, which is absolutely essential for a map sensored ECU.

Why do you say this?

with out air temp you can not know air density, there for pressure alone is useless...

The change in density would be minimal though, to the point, that cars tuned on the road, generally have a safe tune in them, that the minor amount that they can lean out from this heat up, is negated from the slightly extra fuel anyway.

That and the fact the car can run in closed loop, so it can richen or lean out the mixtures accordingly

Every map sensor equipped ecu i have seen, power fc, autronic, motec, haltech all use the air temp sensor, so i assume it is needed.

That adaptronic, can use it, if you buy one. The only difference I'd be able to see, is if the PowerFC, Autronic, Motec, Haltech etc, COME with the air temp sensor, which, from my limited reading on these ECUs, they don't come with one either... They may, please correct me if they do.

So I don't see the issue here. If you want one, run it. I haven't had an issue with mine, without running one, but I keep my tune conservative, not on the edge.

To tune the air temp correction properly, you need to run the car on the dyno in different heats, and then adjust the temp correction, but, at the same time, humidity will also affect the tune, so how many of us are running ECUs that can alter for it?

Edited by MBS206

2 points: Autronic does not have an air temp fuel correction map, this is for a very good reason, its a mathematical formulae, whereby the change in temp effects density.

The change is far more than you would believe. I have tuned 2 cars with adaptronics without Air temp sensors. The frist one was a brumby with no intercooler, left with a 12:1 tune at WOT. Customer fitted a water/air intercooler, running exactly the same boost, came back running 14:1 WOT. The other car was tuned conservatively in winter, and when it got hot in summer would blow black smoke. So i could either retune it every 6 months, or lean it out, then in winter it would run lean.

I understand that the sensors are available, and there is a table in there, but for the added expense to adaptronic to make the product correctly, i wouldnt risk it, i mean all the ecu's should come with it, and the table should be set and locked. I mean put it this way, if you are a customer, and have a P&P ecu fitted, then down the track the motor blows due to the ecu who do you blame?

I have the formula somewhere for the change in density VS air temp, and it is quite substantial, there is also the effect of humidity, but i think the design of an air temp sensor must incorporate this also.

Edited by Adriano

Its easy enough to wire up the Air temp Sensor, For the price of the ECU and what it does it does allow some leaway for you to give it the benifit of not coming with the temp sensor.

Still if you add the cost of a temp sensor to the ecu and plug in harness your still under $1400 for a ecu that does alot of the same functions as alot higher priced ECU's on the market today.

I am going to be installing a temp sensor with my adaptronic jsut to be safe on my new engine but it ran my old rb20 with 300hp atw with no problems for 12 months and didn't see any large amounts of black smoke

For that reason I don;t know why people don't recommend them more oftern.

few reasons, but they are a very simple budget ECU that gives competant results (tuned them on 4age's and turbo hondas)

i would seriously wait for a full 6 channel IGN and INJ model before fitting it to any of my customers cars.. till then it will remain the 4cyl base ecu.

Edited by URAS

What do you mean by 4 cyl ecu??

I've got one running my 26/30 n/a setup and it seems to be coping well with the 140 rwkw it's made.

The only thing I can say wrong about it, that when trying to turn my car over sometimes the CAS and the ECU have a conflict and sort of cut the ignition out, only does it every now and again.

Yes I have the impression that its mainly aimed at 4 cylinder engines with its four injector and four coil drivers in the box .

The air temperature and therefore density issue is a biggie and without some means of knowing what the temperature of the air is I'd say it's impossible to tune for a wide variation in atmospheric conditions .

The Autronic I used to have (SMC) had I think options for an air temp correction map or what they called a charge temp estimation table which works much better .

The thing I never forgot was that some switched on tuners used to put a MAF sensor in front of map sensed engines while they tuned them , message in there somewhere .

A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can perhaps see how the R33 appreciators would think so.  
    • Thanks, I removed the fuse and the relay from the car and made my own circuit with them to test them with a test bulb.  I will look for the wiring diagram and go from there.
    • Jdm DC2R is also nice for a FF car compared to the regular hatches of the time.
    • Now that the break-in period for both clutch and transmission is nearly over I'd like to give some tips before I forget about everything that happened, also for anyone searching up how to do this job in the future: You will need at least 6 ton jack stands at full extension. I would go as far as to say maybe consider 12 ton jack stands because the height of the transmission + the Harbor Freight hydraulic platform-style transmission jack was enough that it was an absolute PITA getting the transmission out from under the car and back in. The top edge of the bellhousing wants to contact the subframe and oil pan and if you're doing this on the floor forget about trying to lift this transmission off the ground and onto a transmission jack from under the car. Also do not try to use a scissor jack transmission lift. You have to rotate the damn thing in-place on the transmission jack which is hard enough with an adjustable platform and a transmission cradle that will mostly keep the transmission from rolling off the jack but on a scissor lift with a tiny non-adjustable platform? Forget it. Use penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts. I highly recommend getting a thin 6 point combination (box end + open end) wrench for both the rear driveshaft and front driveshaft and a wrench extension. These bolts are on tight with very little space to work with and those two things together made a massive difference. Even a high torque impact wrench is just the wrong tool for the job here and didn't do what I needed it to do. If your starter bolts aren't seized in place for whatever reason you can in fact snake in a 3/8 inch ratchet + 6 point standard chrome socket up in there and "just" remove the bolts for the starter. Or at least I could. It is entirely by feel, you can barely fit it in, you can barely turn the stupid ratchet, but it is possible. Pull the front pipe/downpipe before you attempt to remove the transmission. In theory you don't have to, in practice just do it.  When pulling the transmission on the way out you don't have to undo all the bolts holding the rear driveshaft to the chassis like the center support bearing and the rear tunnel reinforcement bar but putting the transmission back in I highly recommend doing this because it will let you raise the transmission without constantly dealing with the driveshaft interfering in one way or another. I undid the bottom of the engine mount but I honestly don't know that it helped anything. If you do this make sure you put a towel on the back of the valve cover to keep the engine from smashing all the pipes on the firewall. Once the transmission has been pulled back far enough to clear the dowels you need to twist it in place clockwise if you're sitting behind the transmission. This will rotate the starter down towards the ground. The starter bump seems like it might clear if you twist the transmission the other way but it definitely won't. I have scraped the shit out of my transmission tunnel trying so learn from my mistake. You will need a center punch and an appropriate size drill bit and screw to pull the rear main seal. Then use vice grips and preferably a slide hammer attachment for those vice grips to yank the seal out. Do not let the drill or screw contact any part of the crank and clean the engine carefully after removing the seal to avoid getting metal fragments into the engine. I used a Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece from Harbor Freight to pull the old pilot bearing. The "wet paper towel" trick sucked and just got dirty clutch water everywhere. Buy the tool or borrow it from a friend and save yourself the pain. It comes right out. Mine was very worn compared to the new one and it was starting to show cracks. Soak it in engine oil for a day in case yours has lost all of the oil to the plastic bag it comes in. You may be tempted to get the Nismo aftermarket pilot bearing but local mechanics have told me that they fail prematurely and if they do fail they do far more damage than a failed OEM pilot bushing. I mentioned this before but the Super Coppermix Twin clutch friction disks are in fact directional. The subtle coning of the fingers in both cases should be facing towards the center of the hub. So the coning on the rearmost disk closest to the pressure plate should go towards the engine, and the one closest to the flywheel should be flipped the other way. Otherwise when you torque down the pressure plate it will be warped and if you attempt to drive it like this it will make a very nasty grinding noise. Also, there is in fact an orientation to the washers for the pressure plate if you don't want to damage the anodizing. Rounded side of the washer faces the pressure plate. The flat side faces the bolt head. Pulling the transmission from the transfer case you need to be extremely careful with the shift cover plate. This part is discontinued. Try your best to avoid damaging the mating surfaces or breaking the pry points. I used a dead blow rubber hammer after removing the bolts to smack it sideways to slide it off the RTV the previous mechanic applied. I recommend using gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket to try and keep the ATF from leaking out of that surface which seems to be a perpetual problem. Undoing the shifter rod end is an absolute PITA. Get a set of roll pin punches. Those are mandatory for this. Also I strongly, strongly recommend getting a palm nailer that will fit your roll pin punch. Also, put a clean (emphasis on clean) towel wrapped around the back end of the roll pin to keep it from shooting into the transfer case so you can spend a good hour or two with a magnet on a stick getting it out. Do not damage the shifter rod end either because those are discontinued as well. Do not use aftermarket flywheel bolts. Or if you do, make sure they are exactly the same dimensions as OEM before you go to install them. I have seen people mention that they got the wrong bolts and it meant having to do the job again. High torque impact wrench makes removal easy. I used some combination of a pry bar and flathead screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning but consider just buying a proper flywheel lock instead. Just buy the OS Giken clutch alignment tool from RHDJapan. I hated the plastic alignment tool and you will never be confident this thing will work as intended. Don't forget to install the Nismo provided clutch fork boot. Otherwise it will make unearthly noises when you press the clutch pedal as it says on the little installation sheet in Japanese. Also, on both initial disassembly and assembly you must follow torque sequence for the pressure plate bolts. For some reason the Nismo directions tell you to put in the smaller 3 bolts last. I would not do this. Fully insert and thread those bolts to the end first, then tighten the other larger pressure plate bolts according to torque sequence. Then at the end you can also torque these 3 smaller bolts. Doing it the other way can cause these bolts to bind and the whole thing won't fit as it should. Hope this helps someone out there.
×
×
  • Create New...