Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys

Im sure this may have been asked before.. but here goes...

I am sick and tired of my standard computer. The biggest let down of my R33 skyline has been the standard computer and the fuel cut problem. Air flow meters drive me crazy and I want to get rid of it once and for all. Fuel cut defenders drive me crazy.. Sick of getting dyno read outs at 95ks an hour because it hits fuel cut rah hah rah

I can get a Microtech LT12 for my R33 for $1550.00 (No hand controller)

OR

I can get a APEXi D Jetro PFC for $1,103.00 and $1,462.00 with HC (this version gets rid of the air flow meter so I wont have to worry about that)

OR

APEXi SAFC2 or similar.

My mods are

T3/T4 hybrid turbo (no ceramic rear wheel)

Supra Front mount

cold air injduction & K&N

3" HKS exaust

Would a SAFC2 do the job? or should i get a APEXi D Jetro PFC and just be done with it ?

I am after 225rwkw and plan on doing the RB30 upgrade within the next three months too.

I think the S-AFC will give you problems with the bigger turbo as its only controlling fuel and the ECU will need more than just fuel map adjustments to suit the larger turbo properly.. but it will fix the fuel cut problem.

I think you're best with the PFC unless you are going to have troubles finding somebody who can tune it properly. Otherwise the microtech in capable hands should do a similar job. Either will probably be a better choice than the S-AFC

I'd go the Power FC if you have someone to tune it up properly....I wouldn;t be in too much of a hurry to get rid of the AFM either.

I currently have the EMS Dual Sport and will probably change to a PFC when I can afford it

If you say that i should keep the Air flow meter.. but doesnt the air flow meter have a limit to how much power it can make? Wouldnt I have to upgrade to a Z32 AFM ?

If so.. whats the point? stuff the AFM off and go map sensor I say..

So why keep the AFM?

the afm is supposed to be more accurate than a map sensor. so if your going for the extra tunability of the power fc then youd be better off with more accurate readings.

i read somewhere on here that the rb25 afm is good up to 250 rwkw, but dont quote me.

Engines with an AFM will usually be more driveable and have better fuel economy.

Depends how far you want to go... If your not going to change the turbo and what to keep it fairly driveable, go the PowerFC.

The older Microtechs give poor fuel economy but make good power. I don't know if the newer models are any better.

Here's the same advice I give anyone. If you have the bucks, get the PowerFC. If you don't, rather than waiting and saving up until you can afford one, get a S-AFC (or S-AFC2) new or second hand (preferably second hand). Then tune that and start saving for your PowerFC. When you have almost enough, sell the S-AFC and use the cash to partially the PowerFC.

With this approach you will probably find you can live longer without an ECU replacement. And you will get most of your money back on the S-AFC so you haven't really lost much money, but gained a pretty good state of tune while you wait for the PowerFC to become affordable.

I think that I have read just about all the threads on this forum about replacement ecu's and as yet can not form an honest opinion on which is better. The PFC certainly has a good reputation but is a little on the dollar rich side whilst the Microtech range appear to offer a good product at the less expensive price range. One thread started to talk about fuel consumption but nothing really substantial was forthcoming. Can anyone who has the PFC and anyone who is using the latest Microtech (LTX-12) please post some honest consumption figures. I think we all agree that both ecu's have the capacity to enable the engine to produce good hp results (when combined with various other mods) so let's see the consumption figures please.

Cheers

how is the microtech less for an R33 ??

You can get a PFC from nungen or greenline for about $1500 with hand controller.

Its the same price for a microtech for me but i get a good price. they are $1800 otherwise with no h/c

Oh!

Sounds like a PFC is the way to go if there is someone around your neck of the woods to tune it. All the info on these threads seem to point towards the PFC as the ecu of choice. Post your consumption figures when you get it in and running. I'm not too interested in what power/torque it will make for you but the fuel consumption side is more of an interest for me. If they are as economical as these threads would have us believe, then I will have an LTX-12 for sale pretty soon.

Cheers

So what's the story on the Z32 AFM upgrade with the Power FC ??

Why would anyone do that ?? What is the benfit ??

How good is the standard RB25 AFM ?? Up to what power can it go ??

What about the injectors and the turbo ??

I'm looking for 230-240kws at the rears.

Would the standard turbo, injectors and AFM handle this if i put a APEXi Power FC ??

Just done an engine conversion, put in a Rb25det into a vl and have replaced standard comp with Microtech. Best and cheapest alternative for all occasions. But I got next model up with hand and external coil driver for a lot less 12 or 13 hundred I think.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And 90% of the time those people turn out to be wrong anyway. But they still treat themselves as a victim...
    • I used the radium thing, makes the whole parallel assembly a lot more compact compared to any other way of doing it 
    • Racetronix also sells those ethanol content sensor bypass blocks. Adapter, Flex-Fuel E85 Sensor High-Flow Bypass, In-line No Sensor (ADF-FLEX-NS): Adapters - Flex Fuel | Racetronix Ethanol content sensor are originally designed to be on the feed line. These bypass blocks are meant to be ran in the feed line and not return. The continental ethanol content sensors have a 3/8" ID and not 5/16". This is why they are ran on the return line directly in conjunction with a low threshold sampling value VS in the feed with one of these blocks.    Haha we think alike, I used both original feed/return for 8AN feed, and one of the Hicas lines as a 6AN return. I also capped off and left the other Hicas line as a spare. 
    • Interesting, I haven't read about the issue with oil getting into the speedo in the cluster before. I'll have to take more notice with mine. The speedo on my R32's when I've run factory diff and tyre size have never been accurate as far as I can remember. The non Type-M GTS-t did come with 15" 5 stud wheels and smaller brakes, but that's less than 5% of them.
    • Good to hear the condenser you picked up off my brother worked all good. Do you think there could be an issue with your AC compressor itself or the clutch on it then? I don't know a lot about them so I can't really help but keen to hear what it ends up being. Keep the build thread going man, it's nice to look back on over time.
×
×
  • Create New...