Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

rebadge would be my pick. there are a LOT of G35s running around. I have a black '06 downstairs now :banana: that is done in that fashion.

(why must nissan make 10 different versions of the same car!!! )

I really don't like debadged V35's. To me it kinda takes away a little of the "classiness" of the car.

I also think that the Nissan badging, especially the "350GT" give the car presence.

And I'm not a fan of the Infiniti badging at all. Would take 350GT on my car over G35 any day of the week!

Was gonna say, that's my 2c, but there's a least 10c worth of opinion there :-)

Okay Guys and Gals

I removed the Skyline badges and will try this for a while. I can always remove more later if I want. ;)

First of all I used Colgate Dental floss (the plastic Lid was perfect for scraping the goo after the badges came off)

Then I used Polyglaze bug and tar removed. 3 minutes and two applications later (minimal rubbing) and the goo was all gone :D

gallery_55491_2832_17808.jpg

Closer Peek

gallery_55491_2832_70668.jpg

And last of all, always have a helper

gallery_55491_2832_67754.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Yes.  The only scenario I can imagine when the answer isn't yes, is if you drive like there is highway patrol behind you at all times.  If your car currently runs, enjoy it and keep saving. Better costs more, keep saving until you can budget the better ECU. It's worth it.  Nope. Plenty of us making >300kw on unopened motors. Mine is unopened and makes about 350kw if I turn everything up, its fine (lots of caveats here, how the car will be used/abused, how long you expect the engine to last between rebuilds, how has the engine been maintained prior to coming into your ownership, etc etc).   
    • Sorry just wanting to clarify, at this power goal, which should I be going? Also, More info regarding suspension, the rear upper camber arms were used to get the camber back to i believe around -0.5 ~ -1 degree (@ Road and Race in Rydalmere), I forgot the exact figure, but ALOT less camber than what it came originally which was like -2.5degrees. Are the traction arms still recommended? The bilsteins from SydneyKid, they've got 400lb/in fronts & 275/in in the rear, revalved to his specs. Intercooler, I'm just having a look at some on Rakuten.jp and some other japanese sites. Might get something from back there, GReddy, Blitz or HPI, all crossflow. Looking at roughly $450-$500 AUD + shipping... Theres not many choices except that chinese branded Justjap unless you go for blitz return flow. Yeah, only downside with Haltech is the price ahhaha, so expensive, and with all the sensors if I go that route... $$$$$ yeesh. Are headstuds/gaskets needed for <300akw?
    • Haltech fanboi reporting in. Buy the Haltech! 
    • You can try shoving a borescope down there to see what's up.
    • I could see someone trying this to save money on oil changes.
×
×
  • Create New...