Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys. I'd like to hear input on the following ------I recently installed a mines tuned non programmable ecu, it got rid of r&r holding ign at about 17* tru the revs at wot on the apexi multichecker. The prob is it pings off boost at low rpm in higher gears showin up to 50* on the multichecker. I retarded the timin via the cas to see if this would make a difference but..... it did'nt Dont matter how much i retard it still shows 15* on idle and it made the car lazy going to about the same readin as before AN IT STILL PINGS!!!!!!

Should'nt adjusting the cas affect the timing somehow?

Also i tried to richen it up in that area with an safc2 -it retarded it by one or two degrees but IT STILL PINGS!!!!!

Any suggestions?

Oh.....with the stock ecu max ign at the same load is about 40* an goes to 8* when it hits r&r at wot RB25det s1 10psi

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/237200-adj-cas-no-change-on-multichecker/
Share on other sites

If this "multichecker" is simply pulling a timing figure from the ecu then it won't show any difference due to moving the cas. The ecu assumes 15deg base timing is set and everything is relative to that. As for why it's pinging off boost at low rpm in high gears... I'd be taking it to a pro quicksmart!

you are using 2 bandaid solutions and 1 monitor only device

throw all of your devices in the bin and buy a real ecu

failing that, if you insist on keeping it, get rid of the mines ecu and use stock ecu

then get the safc tuned properly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They work on really anything track related now. They do my mates r35 gtr and it's a weapon of a car.
    • I use the penrite 600f in my cars and have had no issues even at Townsville v8s when I drove that but I bled fluid end of day for just in case. Good value and a about 38-40 on sale. Use castrol srf on the supercars and no need to Bleed brakes over a race weekend. Do the 1000km with no issues. Over 120 a bottle I seen at repco. A quality brake pad is always a good starting point the ebc stuff I've seen let go after 2 sessions with heavier cars. I'd be going to a decent track pad and maybe those porsche air guides on the control arm to help with some air over the rotor. Helps on 86/brz with stock callipers.  
    • yeah I've never understood that either.... And to answer an earlier question, I write the date on open bottles and throw them if more than 12 months old (which they almost always are, because I don't need to bleed them unless I'm changing lines/calipers etc in between)
    • Nah, the one that hit the boot was a big steel locker, around 6 foot height, 4 foot wide and 2 foot deep, empty it weighs about 15kg and had about that amount of stuff in it The photo didn't give a good representation of the actual damage, the large ding on the passenger side was about a inch deep, the one on the driver was about 1/2 inch deep, right on the curve, where the inner boot frame doesn't let you get behind it with a dolly Basically the same issue with getting behind the damage on the centre of the boot We could have filled it all with bog, but my OCD would be triggered every time I looked at it, knowing what hides beneath  As for the locker, I did get the shits with it and put it in the scap metal bin, but, I pulled it out and it is now sitting in the garage at home full of car servicing stuff, cleaning gear and random tools, it's going to pay for it's indiscretions
    • Whilst I typically don't cheap out on things, if I can save some money, like $1000, on a clean straight panel, that gives me $1000 to spend on other stuff, basically free money really 🤔 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...