Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

r34 coupe is big and r34 sedan even bigger so space is no problem. manual would be the way to go obviously unless u just like to cruise so auto would do but i've heard bad things about the semi auto in the 34.

I'm curious - what have you heard about the R34 semi auto ?

having owned a stagea s2 with the same gearbox in it, i was pretty impressed with it. admittedly the first thing i did was get a shift kit installed, but that was more a matter of taste than anything else. if you want smooth gear changes then stock is better.

in my experience (2 years and over 50,000kms of driving it) it was a very solid box and probably the best auto box i've ever used. previous cars were a nissan silvia turbo auto and nissan silvia non-turbo auto, both of those autos were good but not as good as the stagea/r34 auto.

Not saying I dont believe you, just curious as to what bad things you've heard?

Also, for the record, and keeping on topic, the turbo car will be much more fun, so if you're comparing with a r34 25gt then go the wrx but if comparing to a r34 25gt-t then go the skyline for sure! :)

Just stick with the corolla man..

if you are going to be so tight about fuel consumption and this is obviously your first turbo car after the above comment, you are going to be driving the ring off any car you get, and therefore the fuel consumption above of 11/100km is never going to be seen by you.

I dont want to stick with the corolla man hence the question. Anyway i am willing to look into a turbo skyline but after research. Thats why it was never really considered. I would rather research and ask questions than buy a turbo skyline and decide to sell it.

I wouldn't mind a non turbo skyline. The extractors etc wouldn't be so i can beat a GTR etc at the lights. I just want the nice sound and other things.

Nice fuel consumption on your car mate. Every time i see this i think i should get a turbo skyline. Its just that this cars take 98octane so keep thinking at the back of my mind it may cost a bit to drive around.

He said about 15litres but he does have extra boost (or some word he used) and different fuel pumps etc and computer.

Anyway i am really going to look into the Skyline turbos. 12litres doesnt sound too bad.

Any idea what revs the RPM kicks in. Something to consider in stop go driving.

if he had a computer tune, then the car would be running even more efficient. As with stock computers, it just dumps in fuel causing it to run rich...

Usually boost comes in at 3000rpm+, so driving below 3000rpm is no hassle.

The r33 gtst and r34 gtt would have better fuel economy than r32's...

you want a little bit of go? cheap to run ?

it's called honda. vtec yo. b16a civic or something...

they have like 14/15 /16 inch wheels, cheap for tyres..

apparently they can take a flogging, very reliable,handle well.

plus they aren't that slow, probably faster then your average non turbo skyline.

but don't let me change your mind.

I dont want to stick with the corolla man hence the question. Anyway i am willing to look into a turbo skyline but after research. Thats why it was never really considered. I would rather research and ask questions than buy a turbo skyline and decide to sell it.

I wouldn't mind a non turbo skyline. The extractors etc wouldn't be so i can beat a GTR etc at the lights. I just want the nice sound and other things.

I'm selling a '95 r33 black skyline if your interested . PM me !!

Edited by manda23

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’ll try and see it could be the release bearing. As for the 4th gear grind maybe clutch doesn’t disengage properly cause it is slightly like very slightly hard to go into first could be due to the slab cylinder pin being short uni clutch is a twin plate.   Ive attached some assembly photos hopefully you can open the link and see maybe detect what’s wrong https://share.icloud.com/photos/0dc2YvW__Hl6jl-l2_0jejjpg https://share.icloud.com/photos/09e0jkWOK-vP48c1cfY6u3ViA https://share.icloud.com/photos/0b4rDmh5R7pK7fb1VtND73a3g https://share.icloud.com/photos/05eeUi_6dC4DVi80jOUYDgb0g https://share.icloud.com/photos/06335TgY1XxyIJal_wkdQLhzw
    • Yeah for sure that is peddle adjustment 
    • What are your thoughts on this after having it for a while, worth getting?
    • Downshifts are harder on transmissions than upshifts, the input shaft naturally slows down once disconnected from the engine so the synchros aren't doing all the work. There's no "natural" tendency for an input shaft to increase RPM. Something is not right there, I don't have a great answer on what. You can try a dedicated GL4 75W90, I plan to switch to Motorcraft XT-M5-QS which is supposedly a very good 75W90 for NB Miatas which have a weirdly sensitive transmission from the factory. I would chase down why your clutch is making a hissing noise, that's not normal. It might be no big deal but in the absence of anything else to investigate I would look at that.
    • ^^ It's a valid point. Sometimes you (and in this case, I) stand too close to the problem to see the solution. The oil control thread eventually came to a recommendation about running lines from cam covers and sump to the catch can.
×
×
  • Create New...