Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thought i'd start a new thread and keep all my progress pics on the one page.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Tools needed :

- 1 x Roll of Carbon Film (here)

- 1 x flat head, 1 x philips screw driver (to remove pieces)

- can of Wax and Grease Remover

- Blow dryer or heat gun.

First mark out how much carbon film you'll need. Allocate approximately 1-2cm's extra around edges to allow it to wrap over.

Clean the surface of the interior piece you want to cover, use 'Wax and Grease' remover if necessary.

Wet the surface using a mix of water and detergent. This will allow you to take out any bubbles when you lay the carbon film.

Lay the carbon film over the piece, and smooth any any bubbles using a credit card. For edges pull hard and use a blow dryer/heatgun if necessary to allow it to wrap nicely around it.

Reinstall the piece. Pretty simple stuff. Sit back and enjoy :thumbsup:

Results

The Ashtray

post-950-1222320238_thumb.jpg

The old center console has seen better days.

post-950-1222320246_thumb.jpg

Center Console with Carbon

post-950-1222320252_thumb.jpg

Double Din Plate

post-950-1222320257_thumb.jpg

Thanks guys. Here's some more.

Console - After

post-950-1222500327_thumb.jpg

Drivers Side P/Window Panel - Before

post-950-1222500368_thumb.jpg

Drivers Side P/Window Panel - After

post-950-1222500385_thumb.jpg

B-Pillar Cover - Before

post-950-1222500411_thumb.jpg

B-Pillar Cover - After

post-950-1222500439_thumb.jpg

post-950-1222500460_thumb.jpg

what would the CF film be like in the heat? id imagine that itd bubble in the aussie sun...unless it has a special thing to prevent it. let us know how it fairs anyway :D

also coming from the PC scene iv had a bit of experience with this film beforehand, ima case modder from way back..

http://www.gammods.com.au/store/index.php?...mp;keyword=film

would be a good way to fix my poxed gear surround and dash facia tho.

Apparently this film was advertised as suitable for external applications (i.e. outside the vehicle). I mentioned this in the other thread, but before I applied it I tested it with an abrasion test by using Meguires Heavy Cut 8.5 on it, and secondly I tested it with a heatgun. It passed the abrasion test easily, and the film took up to about 100c from a heatgun before starting to warp. Hopefully this will stand up to our very hot summers.. but we'll see I guess.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You have the option to do this. Nobody but me ever did this (go slower, I mean) Everyone seems to fall victim to "This would be a great setup for you, but for me, I need a little more power..."
    • Save yourself the headache of an alarm. Immobilizer on the signal side of the main EFI relays so it won't start is good enough. DIY killswitch is the same thing except instead of a nice passive system you need to remember to switch it on and off.
    • Yeah, the advent of canbus was supposed to cut down on wiring weight, then some bright marketing wonk says "oh, look at all these wonderful tech gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some arsehole safety legislator says "oh, look at all the wonderful surveillance and tracking gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some dipshit young engineer who has grown up thinking that an extra 500000 lines of code is not a problem because storage is cheap these days says "oh look at all this wonderful shit I can do to one up those dipshit arsholes over at VW" and the Karens of the world all go "oh look at all these fancy things I can do on my screen (so long as I am not driving on a bumpy road wherein touch screens immediately become the single most stupid shit idea ever shoveled into a car) and my 19 zone airconditioning keeps my sweaty fat folds a bit less damp and the windows close themselves because I'm too fat and lazy to wind them up for myself and these reversing sensors would have been great if I'd paid attention to them instead of smashing them on the bollard while I was reversing and staring fixedly forward that day I went to pick up little Charlize from ballet" and the sweaty mongoloids who say "oh this wonderful collision avoidance technology with these 45 excellent radar antennae scattered across the front of my car mean I can tailgate like a methed up tradie at full speed with no fear because the car and the 35 airbags will protect me if it all goes wrong" ...... </shallistopranting?>
    • There's a post from a member (can't recall who), went down the path of a twin scroll G30-660 and it's doing over 300kW+ AND comes on about the same as a high flow RB25DET turbo. Have your cake and eat it too in this case. TBH, if I had a 2nd chance of building my car again (i.e. someone gave me what I wanted for my shit box, but the deal was I had to re-build another R33 and keep the change) I would just pop in a stock NEO motor (with new seals, rod bearings, ARP studs, head gasket, sump, Nitto pump), get a smaller twin scroll turbo, modify the stock low mount (keep the divider in place), and make a solid 300kW on 98RON and call it a day. 
×
×
  • Create New...