Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I'm referring to the car washes where you pay $1 for 1 minute of pressure spray/ de-greaser/ soap etc.

Ok so my engine bay is filthy and all dirty.. Can i just pressure spray it and degrease it without damaging anything.. is it something i can do? how else would i clean it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/237640-1-per-minute-car-wash/
Share on other sites

Mixed responses you will have for this.

I have used this technique for a friends r32 gts-t at those carwashes and all we did was put a plastic bag over the pod filter.

my ex bmw i used to hand wash all the time as i would was the car and hose it down

my ex r33 i would spray citrus based degreaser in a can over the tough spots and hose down

never had a problem but i would use a chammy to dry as much water as possible then start the car and drive it for at least 15minutes to evaporate any water left

hope that helps

it can be done, but you have to be careful. It wudnt hurt to cover a few things such as Pod, Alternator, Sparkplug cover and the electrical connectors. Thing is, you dont necessarily NEED to cover them, however it will just attract rust. Im sure you dont want your connectors/plugs/pins do develop rust.

This is what i do. I spend say 1 weekend and clean 1 area of the engine bay. I try to take out as many parts as i can, then i give it a good clean with some "Prestone Bug n tar remover" and then polish it off! squeaky clean. The bug n tar remover works wonders on the rocker covers too. I know its a pain but that way i dont compromise my engine in anyway, esp water damage.

Safest option is get a can of degreaser and a cloth and go nuts. Will take you a while, but its better than having water in any electrical system under your bonnet.

+1

This is what I do, only takes 15min if your not too pedantic

You'll be fine :cool:

Most car dealers get a waterblaster, spray the bay with it, then once it dries spray it with silicone, plastic bag over the pod might be a good idea though

If you have an oil squirting air compressed gun, you can put degreaser and water into it and spray your bay, I did that to mine, no rust 4 years after

I did it with my 33, was fine till you hit 4000rpm then it would not rev any more and if you put your foot into it below 4k it would break down all the time, happened for about 5 mins parked it at a mates for about an hour and never had a problem since.

So long as you dont direct and pressure for prolonged periods it will be fine.

As in just spray your degreaser over everything, let it soak for a min then just gently hose it off with the garden hose.

Maybe give certian areas a scrub with a brush if you need to.

Basically avoid hard sprays at areas such as fuseboxes, pods, alternator (although it is low and probly gets wet frum underbody water in the rain anyway) and the lead cover/leads.

If you jam the hose under the lead cover to clean it out then your just asking for trouble.

I used to do this all the time on my Integra Type R, and never had a problem once with cutting out, rust etc etc. Just a nice clean engine! ;) Will be doing this on my R33 today when i was her. As i did a coolant change/flush last night so theres a bit to clean up.

If you put degreaser on and not wash it off properly it stinks like shit though...

In my 33 I spray the shit out of it with degreaser then just hose it off... looks brand new after 5 minutes at home

If you put degreaser on and not wash it off properly it stinks like shit though...

In my 33 I spray the shit out of it with degreaser then just hose it off... looks brand new after 5 minutes at home

Not if you use "Simple Green" :(

That stuff smells good hahaha, and its the best degreaser out!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Its hard to tell really. The Q50 owner's forum talks about it a lot and has quite a few people directly affected, but no idea what % of cars sold actually had the block replaced. Also, there seem to be 2 distinct issues which both get diagnosed by Infiniti as requiring a block replacement (no wonder they are going broke) 1. "Porous block" where coolant mixes with oil through thin or poorly cast parts of the block 2. Head coolant gallery plugs not sealing. If I was noticing engine coolant loss I'd start with cooling system pressure test (as always) and then I'd pull the cam covers and reseal the coolant gallery plugs on both side before worrying about a potentially porous block.  If neither of those did the trick it would be put in a second hand engine out of japan; I haven't checked pricing but I'm sure there are plenty around by now as they've been in production 10+ years
    • To clarify what I posted above, I though you both had a situation where it cancelled sooner one way than the other.....if it is reasonably even where it cancels in either direction that is probably normal (consider gentle movements like lane changes, you don't want it to need half a turn of lock to turn the indicators off)
    • Son, in this country, that is a piece of Gyprock. f**king drywall. FFS! I also like the autocorrect of trailer to tablet. I was reading it and thing, "what the hell drugs is he on?" Then the photo made it clear enough.
    • SO whats the deal with this issue? I've read a heap of posts from the infinity owners in the US having full engine swaps done under warranty. Most claims are done on earlier cars than 2019 but I'm sure I've come across claims of 2020 models also having this issue. I like the 400r and Q50Red/S but can't fathom dumping close to 50k on a car with terminal issues!!! 
    • The above video is working normally. That is, that's how the right hand indicator should cancel when rotating the wheel left.
×
×
  • Create New...