Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

haha i tried to cut neatly using a saw... lol i need to get someone to make it a bit straighter now, then ill put mesh in... i need it repainted anyway so it doesnt bother me how bad it looks for a short time

I got quoted $500 4wks ago to have done:

* Cut number plater part out and patch the side bits.

* Mesh all across the bottom.

* Re-align FMIC.

* Fit airbox over Pod filter.

* Fit an air duct from the Pod down to the front bar.

* Respray entire front bar.

The angle grinders the way to go. I did my M spec bar with one and it came our perfect. No painting was needed. Dremel would take forever and cost a small fortune in discs and I tried the air saw but it was not making a nice clean cut and pulling off the paint. I use an Artline pen to trace where I needed to cut,,,took my biggest cut back by 2mm and then lightly use the grinder to finish it off. I also used some rolled up sand-paper around a can to curl the sections where my pipes go through the outer parts of the bar. Mesh is held in using thick blobs of Sikaflex. I gotta tell ya,,,take your time,,,don't rush it and it will look like a pro did it. A number of people including my mechanic thought I had got it all done by a pro.

I bought the Trust Kit and just let me say,,,it's unbeleivable,,,every nut,bolt,screw,spacer,bracket,,,bloody everything. Even had the replacement washer bottle and a stopper if the cars not fitted with a rear wiper. If you really want an excellent FMIC kit with everything,,,Buy Trust.

Neil.

Neil, thanx for the info but ur a bit late getting to me on it...

i still need to cut some of the front bar support aswell just to fit this big fcuker ..... i got told it was only 640 wide..... but i measured it to be 670 wide....

Sorry mate,,,no pics on the net,,,I do have an SLR that takes great pics,,,but the Boss of this site has been a little slack and not built a web site for me yet.

Kamikize,,,with the trust one you have the trim two section of the electric fan as well as the plasic knob that sticks out and also trim the a small section of the chassis rails and the front bar reiforcement. Again lifes a lot easier using a angle grinder. Sounds scary but its not that bad.

Neil.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Anyone want to make me an offer to take my v36/g37 3.7l manual coupe in full? Off memory it was low 100k km but the battery is flat so can't tell right now. What's wrong. I had engine problem's that led to a nice clunk. It made it home but it wasn't pretty for the last few kms. Happened under revs. Sounds like bottom end.. never got around to fully checking or fixing it so the car has sat still and unregistered for a few years. Minor bump in front end set the pedestrian protection under bonnet airbag off and that was meant to be repaired, but while waiting for the repair (parts to come) I got the engine problem. The rest of the car is in decent condition. All drive line is good. All interior is good. Leather interior. Wheels in good condition and decent tyres although the ps4s are likely a little too old now it's sat still. Colour of the car is pewter off memory, the dark grey colour. In Camden NSW. Would need a tray back pickup.
    • Anyone want to make me an offer to take my v36/g37 3.7l manual coupe in full? Off memory it was low 100k km but the battery is flat so can't tell right now. What's wrong. I had engine problem's that led to a nice clunk. It made it home but it wasn't pretty for the last few kms. Happened under revs. Sounds like bottom end.. never got around to fully checking or fixing it so the car has sat still and unregistered for a few years. Minor bump in front end set the pedestrian protection under bonnet airbag off and that was meant to be repaired, but while waiting for the repair (parts to come) I got the engine problem. The rest of the car is in decent condition. All drive line is good. All interior is good. Leather interior. Wheels in good condition and decent tyres although the ps4s are likely a little too old now it's sat still. Colour of the car is pewter off memory, the dark grey colour. In Camden NSW. Would need a tray back pickup.
    • I started with the above in my head too, and I might be reading / thinking about what they want wrong, which is why I complicated it a bit further. Purpose I'm seeing is for the corner indicator to be on with headlights, and then if the indicator turns on it can still flash. The relay part above I can see working as required, except in the case of headlight is on, and indicator is on. The change over relay you've wired in would get signal from the indicator, and as it flashes would give power to the globe from the indicator, but as it flashes off, power comes from the headlight, which would cause the indicator to be constantly on when headlight is on, even while indicator change over is flashing. That is unless we don't care if it flashes or not if the headlight is on? I guess that's an OP clarification.
    • HI, Ive got an r34 gtt sedan A/T. The instrument cluster went out and I replaced it with another A/T everything visually looks the same and all the gauges work now with the exception of the speedometer and odometer. The speedo will stay pinned at zero until I'm going about 55kmh and then it'll say Im going about 5kmh. my odometer seems to be tracking at about a 1/10 of what it should. If I go 1km it'll say I've only gone 0.01. Appreciate any and all help. Ive tried searching through the forums reddit and a local fb group. The only info I think I've found is that some cars didnt come equipped with TCS (mind is) and the clusters may be different between those? I've also installed a brand new VSS and no joy obviously. TIA. 
    • what speedo healer did you use?  
×
×
  • Create New...