Jump to content
SAU Community

2nd Hand Engine Supplier / Questions?


Recommended Posts

Hey Everyone,

I know topics like this have been asked and I have searched but after personal experiences...

I am really stuck as to what company to use for getting a good condition low/k front cut or just engine for my car!

I have a

Nissan Skyline R32 GTST (1989)

RB20DET (Silvertop)

I would like to know who has actually used a 2nd hand Low'k Engine from a wrecker/reco place?

What company did you use?

How was the company to deal with?

Did the engine come with a compression/leak down test?

What was the condition of the engine/front cut? clean?, any aftermarket parts?

Is your engine still going, and had any drama's?

I will be buying a new water pump, timing belt, possible gasket kit...

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Thankyou

Peter (BOOSTA)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/237700-2nd-hand-engine-supplier-questions/
Share on other sites

Yeah no worries, Ive responded in red below...

What company did you use? Asian Auto Spares (Kingston Rd @ Underwood near Moss street)

How was the company to deal with? Easy as could be, I just told them what i wanted and they got it within budget

Did the engine come with a compression/leak down test? No, most import half cuts as pot luck but then not many people in Japan want to rip off their regular customers so usually they get only good stock.

What was the condition of the engine/front cut? clean?, any aftermarket parts? Well I got a Feb 2002 R34 GTR cut so it was in prime condition, but it depends on the age of the car it came from, any Rb20 from and R32 GTST for instance it gonna be at least 15 years old minimum. As where an R34 GTR could not be any oler than 9 years...

Is your engine still going, and had any drama's? She was a fresh motor the odo on the dash had 11k on it when I sold the dash and the motor was clean as a whissle. I opened her up before installing it and she was smick as factory delivered...

Just call a wreaker and let them know exactlly what you want and your budget and you'll be fine...

Asian Auto Spares put a small warranty on the engine for me also (3 months from memory) so that should cover while you install and test...

No hassles...

Id suggest trying a number of wreakers to ensure you get the best price usually, but with stuff like half cuts price usually is an incidactor of quality...

I paid good money for my half cut but then i got brakes, seats, dash, gearbox etc etc...

By the time I sold the stuff I didnt want the very fresh Rb26 cost me $1100... :nyaanyaa:

So honestly paying a fixed price through a company like AAS is the way to go, cause you will get exactlly what you ask for... Plus some warranty to boot...

I bought an engine recently from nizzpro!

Got an rb20 (no boltons just block/head) With a new timing belt and water pump for 850!

Was 100 more for them to do the timing belt and water pump so i figured at that price why do it myself? Has a 3 month warrenty too :)

I GOT MY HALF CUT FROM WORK AT THE PANEL HOUSE AS I WORK THERE WE RUN THEM IN FRONT OF U AND ALSO DO COMPRESSION TEST

WE ARE AT 45 RANDALL STREET SLACKS CREEK 07 38088737 WE HAVE ALOT OF HALF CUTS N MOTORS N BOXES

I agree with Col. If you're going to get an RB20 it's going to be fairly old and the chances of you being able to get a compression/leak down test done legitimately is slim. I recently bought my second RB25 and since putting it in it's very fresh and runs well.

So many of the wreckers around Brisbane will try and rip you off something chronic. Ill break it down for you:

I was quoted this for a RB25 Long Motor....

All Automotive Imports: $1200 Cash with receipts. (incl tax)

A1 Nissan Wreckers: $1750 Cash WITHOUT receipts.

JustJap: $1500 Cash (Stagea RB25 with modded sump)

Panel House: $2250 Cash with receipts :)

I tried many many wreckers and so many tried taking me for a ride. Obviously I went with All Automotive and after dealing with the guys there they assured me any front cut or engine they have will never have done 100k's.

Main thing to remember is to sound very confident and knowledgable, know what your asking for and sound like your in the trade :(

Hey Guys,

Thankyou for the help and tons of information...

The only thing bothering me about the RB25det swap is what needs to be done to get it all working...

Custom tailshaft?

Custom speedo sensor?

What else does need to be swapped?

I will be doing all the work myself as time isn't a problem at the moment!

Cheers BOOSTA (Pete)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
    • I'm interested,do you still have it?
×
×
  • Create New...