Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Today I had a Bosch 040 supplied + fitted for $340.

Previously with the std pump 7psi (190rwkw) drove absolutely perfectly but 12psi (203rwkw whilst leaning out) was coughing and spluttering.

Now 12psi is as good as 7psi after the new 040 pump has been fitted.

Very happy because the 040 will leave me with plenty of headroom for future mods.

Originally posted by benm

Theirs no way i'll be turning it up to 15psi, 12psi is enough for me right now (I need to burn that in as it is).

Having a standard ECU means lot of things can go wrong. :D

Such as? The stock ecu throws more fuel in and less advanced timing, if anything its going to protect the engine. Granted it has a boost/fuel cut which spoils fun, but it certainly isnt going to harm the engine in any way.

would the standard pump running into a surge tank with larger fuel pump be enough? or would you need 2 pumps of same flow rate for this to work best??

anyone put a surge tank in the boot of a skyline, or are the fuel tanks baffled enough not to worry about starvation on the track??

craved, I don't know about the inner design of the tank, but I've never had a fuel starvation problem on the track (but then neither do I take it out with under 1/4 tank)

yeah neither have i, well not that i've noticed anyway, just looking for an easier way than replcing the one intank, plus the looks etc of an anodised surge tank in the boot :P

do you know if it would work or would the high pressure pump empty it too quick to be feasable?

Craved I got my Bosch 040 (520hp) intank fuel pump supplied + fitted for $340.

To get an external pump/surge tank etc supplied + fitted by UAS was going to cost basically $1,000.

Unless you drive around with your boot open I reckon the ~$600 could be spent elsewhere, like some slotted front rotors.

damn, a grand!!!

they sell the surge tanks for about $250, plus the fuel pump, the rest can be done yourself!!!

but overall just looking at whether its going to work the way i was thinking, main reason is that i have to do this setup in a sprinter as well, since the engine conversion it has major surge issues running from the VL turbo pump!! The old AE86 dont have fuel tank baffles, causing major issue at the track when less than half a tank!!

Hi guys, by plumbing it into a surge tank you take the load (resistance) off the standard GTST pump. As an example we have a GTR that uses a GTST pump in the tank pumping into a 1.5 litre surge tank with 2 X GTR pumps feeding the engine. The surge tank is never empty, the single GTST pump easily keeps up with the requirements of the 2 X GTR pumps supplying the 6 X 1,000 cc injectors.

Hope that helps

that was exactly the answer i was looking for sydneykid!!!

thanks heaps for that!!!

just one more little question: do you just Y piece the return line and the surgetank overflow before the fuel tank, or do you need a separate lines to the tank from the surgetank and return line ??

Cheers

Hi Craved, I do it a little differently than some I have seen. I return the unused fuel from the engine into the fuel tank, not into the surge tank. I have found it comes back from the engine warmer than when it went there. The compression effect of the fuel pumps, the heat transferred from the fuel pumps and the heat in the engine bay all get together to make it hotter. So if you keep going around and back into the surge tank you end up with really hot fuel which is not a good thing.

So I use a Y piece at the fuel tank for the surge tank over flow and return from the fuel rail.

Hope that helps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Big R34 GTR parts cleanout. I have a lot of stuff collected over the last 14 years and my missus is giving me hard time. Make my life easy.   Nismo GT carbon fibre diffuser fins (discontinued)  NEW  $2900 Garage Defend Stingray canards carbon fibre  NEW  $1300  Top Secret G Force carbon fibre front diffuser  NEW  $2000  Haltech Elite 2500  NEW  $2500  Haltech Platinum Pro R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Apex’I power FC D'jetro + hand controller R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Nissan OEM BNR34 ECU  USED   $1000  HKS EVC 6  USED  $600  Blitz dual SBC ID boost controller.  USED  $350  TRE 255 LPH Fuel pump  NEW  $100  Fujitsubo  Super Ti exhaust  USED  $2700  Tomei Expreme Ti exhaust  USED  $2000  Trust stainless steel front pipe  USED  $1000  Apex’I super suction kit  USED $400  BC BR coilovers  USED  $600  Hardrace front upper camber kit. USED  $300  Garret 2860-5 turbos –  one good, one needs reco USED  $1000  Nissan OEM Toshiba MFD Screen replacement  NEW  $450  Nissan OEM BNR34 Series II front passenger seat  USED (mint) $5000   Nissan OEM BNR34 front bar in TV2  USED  $1000  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler  USED  $900  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler (painted)  USED  $900  Nismo front indicator (clear) USED  $80 Nissan OEM BNR34 radiator  USED $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 turbos  USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intercooler USED  $800  Nissan OEM BNR34 front swaybar   USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intake pipes   USED  $400    Also have a square set of uber rare Volk CE28n in 19*10 +22. Not really keen to sell these but make a high enough offer and maybe I will. If you don't know how much these usually sell for don't bother.   PM for pics.  Pickup Chadstone VIC or postage at buyer's expense.
    • Thanks Mate, I did know you could do that but i know there is a pump out there that you can bolt on and it all lines up. I was told about it and then forgot the model, I figure if i am pulling it apart i will just put a new one on 
    • You can also remove the veins from the HICAS portion of your existing pump. 
    • Trying to swap the rear subframe on my R34 and can't remove the L-shaped stay brackets between the front subframe mounts and the sill/chassis. I'm in the UK so rust is a problem. I've used loads of WD40 and then Tunap 103 for days beforehand. I backed off the bolts forward a bit, backward a bit repeatedly for ages to try and avoid snapping. They have all moved a few full turns. The one I've spent most time on has come loose and I can turn with fingers, and it will pull down and push up 2-3mm. But it won't come out. I can tighten it back up and loosen it off again repeatedly but it still won't come out. I assumed there's a captive nut inside but if that's broken loose then I can't understand why I can always tighten the bolt back up - I'd expect it to just spin both ways. Any ideas what's happening here? I can't visualise what's inside there to cause this.
    • Cheers, yeah it was recently imported, is the actual Nissan not an Infiniti so will have to do some chasing around for parts.    Any ideas if the side skirts from a Q50 would fit on the 400r?
×
×
  • Create New...