Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all im collecting parts atm to upgrade my rb20det in my r32 gtst have got pfc, r33 turbo, 040 intank,

boost controller an jus wanted to know will i need a fuel pressure regulater for these mods

Also already got the basic mods done and later on down the track i will be installing gtr injectors afm and gettin turbs hi flowed and coilpacks ect so if i don't need the fpr for the first lot of mods will i need it later on for when i put the gtr injectors in an all that

hope that makes sense cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/237816-rb20-upgrade-question/
Share on other sites

im getting confused there have been a few topics i've read and people are upgrading fpr's to adjustable ones

or is it cos i got a power fc i can adjust it on that an not worrie bout upgrading cos i will need more fuel once i start to

up the boost so can someone who definatley knows bout this explain please

im getting confused there have been a few topics i've read and people are upgrading fpr's to adjustable ones

or is it cos i got a power fc i can adjust it on that an not worrie bout upgrading cos i will need more fuel once i start to

up the boost so can someone who definatley knows bout this explain please

With the set up you described above there is no need to replace your stock FPR nor is there a need to bump the pressure up at all with the GTR injectors.

The stock reg will be fine as its rising rate so save your money for something else :P

im getting confused there have been a few topics i've read and people are upgrading fpr's to adjustable ones

or is it cos i got a power fc i can adjust it on that an not worrie bout upgrading cos i will need more fuel once i start to

up the boost so can someone who definatley knows bout this explain please

As the grandmaster said.

The PFC doesn't know about fuel pressure, so you can't control it from there. The factory FPR is a rising rate regulator, and as you up the boost, so you will up the fuel pressure. You get more fuel by programming the PFC to open the injectors for a longer time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See my post here If you put the Haltech in, you won't have to worry about any of that. And, in case you're worrying about my lack of credentials in doing your exact swap, I put a Neo in an R32. There has never been a stock boost solenoid near my car and the Neo's ECU has never cared. Nor should it, because it is electronically impossible for it to care.
    • That's 100% wrong. Did you wire in the boost sensor? If you did not, then that is 101% your answer. Neo ECUs do suck a bit.
    • Hello, I'm trying to make this thread basically the thread with all the answers to common questions regarding specifically the RB20 DE NEO + T engine, that comes in the R34. Answers will and only should be provided by those who have done this conversion or actually have some relevant real life experience please. Please feel free to ask questions in the comments if you have any so other members can answer. I feel like this thread is really needed, especially with more Americans buying (unknowingly going to regret it too) rb20 neo r34s. My first question being - What do you guys use for tuning? I have purchased a haltech elite 2500 Plug and play kit for the rb25det NEO because the ecu plug is the same, but I am unsure if any of the pins would need to be repined to match. Second question that I see asked very often - After this conversion, did you install the boost solenoid/ actuator? I see many people doing a + T setup on their rb20 NEOs while running stock RB25DET NEO ECUs with no tune. I am wondering how they are going about doing that and consistently abusing the car because many of these people have had these untuned setups running for a very long time. That was my original plan, but my engine cuts out at 5 psi of boost using the stock ecu with no tune and no boost solenoid/actuator.
    • interesting. ive read and heard otherwise over the past year. ive been doing this +t conversion on a rb20 neo using all oem rb25det neo parts including the ECU, and im having engine cut out issues when I hit around 5 psi of boost. Everywhere/everyone ive asked has told me its because I never wired in a boost solenoid/actuator to the ecu, so the ecu isn't getting the right signal once it hits 5 psi of boost, causing the engine to get shut off.
×
×
  • Create New...