Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32/R33 std GTST AFM's are the same, will cap out around 200rwkw

they peak just near 5v at 200rwkw. you can stretch it to around 220rwkw ish if you like or even 250rwkw if your tuner is game but its not recommended

above say 220rwkw just get a Z32

  • 2 weeks later...
i'd never use a stock afm for 250rwkw, thats just insanity if you ask me.

maybe tell us what your setup is then people might be able to give you more advise.

:)

what kind of problems would you expect when running a stock afm at that kind of power level?

runs fine -- lean -- over rich --- detotanation -- boom :O

and maybe not in that order

the whole idea is to increase resolution as the inlet airflow is increased, so you have tunability throughout the rev range and flow potential of the turbo in that space.

to use it you need some thing tunable, so make the most of what ever the setup is.

hello

there are a few things worth noting before we run along a tagent

there is no given exact RWKW or PSI rating for a given AFM maxing out

when an afm maxes out or hits its celing limit in voltage it cant show the ECU any more increase in air coming into the engine (or LOAD)

i call it LOAD as most engine ECU's refer to a LOAD axis, regardless so if its map sensor or afm, they say LOAD

so once our device (be it map sensor or AFM) max out, the LOAD signal to the doesn't increase

so

scenario #1

AFM hits 5.1v and doesnt increase from this point onwards LOAD doesnt increase (lets pretend LOAD is a made up number of say 15000)

15000 units of engine load for our given ecu. lets pretend the ECU is a powerfc as these are common and our LOAD is 15000.

this doesnt mean 15000volts or anything, its just a load index. lets say the max load index possible is 20000 for any given situation.

so at 15,000 LOAD its near 3/4 on the LOAD rating (so lets say row 15 out of 20) as its 3/4s. lets say RPM is 4500rpm

so

LOAD is 15000

AFM is 5.1v

RPM is 4500rpm

so from this point onwards until the user changes gear (and it repeats) the LOAD number never increases.

it is likely more air comes into the system even though the AFM cant say to the ECU "hey more air is coming in" - because its capped at 5v

so the only change in the map co-ordinates can be is moving to the right along the "RPM" axis as the "LOAD" axis doesnt move down.

so the tuner must from this point onwards juggle the AFR's coming out and keep the timing under control

now he MUST do this for lets say 4/5's of the throttle and the throttle 5/5's as 4/5's may be enough to max the AFM

so wether the user is hammering the car or almost hammering it the user must juggle both scenarios as both use the same axis

there is where we often hear "run out of load points" as the tuner has run out of load points, so they have to juggle any possible combination

ok so now that we know what a maxing AFM means, it basically makes it a bit harder for the tuner

the engine wont go bang, it wont melt rods, pitsons, or blow up the wastegate

youll loose some tuning accuracy, and it will be a bit more for the tuner to juggle

maxing the AFM up near the top end is ok and i would call it reasonalbe

lets say you max it at 5000rpm then i would say this is ok, as not much changes from there on

now lets look at a map sensor setup

scenario #2

MAP sensor hits 2.1v and doesnt increase from this point onwards LOAD doesnt increase (lets pretend LOAD is a made up number of say 15000)

15000 units of engine load for our given ecu. lets pretend the ECU is a powerfc djetro as these are common and our LOAD is 15000.

this doesnt mean 15000volts or anything, its just a load index. lets say the max load index possible is 20000 for any given situation.

so at 15,000 LOAD its near 3/4 on the LOAD rating (so lets say row 15 out of 20) as its 3/4s. lets say RPM is 3300rpm

so

LOAD is 15000

MAP (or PIM-1) is 2.1v

RPM is 3300rpm

so from this point onwards until the user changes gear (and it repeats) the LOAD number never increases.

it is likely more air comes into the system even though the MAP cant say to the ECU "hey more air is coming in" - because its capped at 2.1v

it is capped at 2.1v as pressure reaches target boost (controlled by the boost controller) from the time the engine reaches target boost

so lets say you hit 1.3bar at 3300rpm - from here onwards, your engine LOAD guessed by the MAP sensor setup, doesnt increase after that

so the only change in the map co-ordinates can be is moving to the right along the "RPM" axis as the "LOAD" axis doesnt move down.

so the tuner must from this point onwards juggle the AFR's coming out and keep the timing under control

now he MUST across a larger range as most engines hit target boost reasonably early (say around 3 grand) so he must do this for a wider range of thorttle and engine load "scope" but the same boost pressure etc.

there is where we often hear "run out of load points" as the tuner has run out of load points, so they have to juggle any possible combination.

so in summary, a map sensor setup it worse off and "maxes out" much earlier in the rev range -vs- an afm setup

both work ok but are tunable, will make power and so on on

its just one (the afm setup) has more accuracy and variance, thus it can use more points

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~`

some tuners say its acceptable

some say its a timebomb and so on

it all depends on the car setup and whats at stake and when does the afm max

if it maxes at 3000rpm thats bad, as its heaps of juggle/guess work for the tuner

if it maxes around 5000rpm and its a fairly low powered setup then it should be ok

by low powered id say around 250rwkw ish - over these levels it can be crucial

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I just got to work and skimmed through 61508 and 61511. I was surprised the CSA adopted both, but neither are enforced. To recap what I read, it states that in a perfect world, they should be segregated but they acknowledge that this is not industry standard and clearly mention that they allow mixing of safety and non-safety. 61511 also mentions software segregation like AB does in their safety PLC's.   Now if only I could go back to control, let alone safety over comms. In my current line of work, we're only allowed monitoring and basic control over comms. Everything critical must still be hard wired as much as possible. 
    • I've unfortunately never been as they're on the complete other side of the continent and another country that isn't currently letting us in as easily as they use to. I even heard their stop signs over there actually say "Stop" instead of "Arret". If I decided to trek the 48h drive, I wouldn't know when or where to stop haha. Whenever I order parts from UP Garage, I order from Japan as it's cheaper. Same with GKTech... oddly enough, it's cheaper shipped from Australia then it is the US.  UP Garage Japan operates their US leg though, unlike Tomei. If Tomei JPN had the power to close down Tomei USA, I'm sure it would be done in a day. They're two completely separate entities. Tomei JPN messed up somewhere originally agreeing to its creation and got sacked big time. 
    • I asked someone about this and he told me about the Audi 1.8T engine. But I think it would be difficult to swap
    • I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
×
×
  • Create New...