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I'm not driving the car much on the street anymore- suspension is too harsh, exhaust too loud etc. for it to be very comfortable to drive. Just going to use it for the odd trackday, so not concerned about drivability anymore. If I was, I wouldn't remove the 2530 :)

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ok, i might be opening up a can of beans that'll spill into what should be another thread but........ what would be cheaper, if you wanted to have a weekend car, and a track day car..... a worked gts-t, or a worked gt-r, both having say...... 600hp at the engine? or would there be too many variables involved? just running on my train of thought here

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Hah now that question deserves a long, opinionated answer...

Depends on size of budget (is $5,000 cheap or is $30,000 cheap?), driving style, access to facilities or contacts, maintenance budget etc. etc. You could write a book on it (I'm sure someone has).

Bottom line (in my humble opinion, and stated a million times in other posts)..

* GT-R's cost more initially, increasing performance costs less, marginally higher upkeep

and the inverse for GTS-Ts. Get a 180sx - cheap to buy, cheap to improve performance, cheap to maintain.

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Kinda got sidetracked - as for some dyno figures...

Rick Shaw has a 2540 on his personal car (it's up for sale btw, as you would expect it's immaculate and everything has been rebuilt) and has dyno'd ~230kw at his shop. That was at 1 bar boost - his standard fuel system limited this.

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Ezekrael

as far as clutch choice goes, a search should reveal all the info you need.

for around 900 fitted got me my extreme single plate ceramic button clutch with sprung centre. many members are using this clutch and its very usable. I think its good for 450hp, which means it should be fine unless you upgrade your turbo again and shoot for over 250rwkw.. then again whatsisname has over 250rwkw and that was his clutch choice too.

evo- fuel pumps are INTERNAL on 33's and yes can still hear buzzing. No std turbo not good for 230rwkw.

for HKS relevance heres my GT2530. i am assured by the supplier (a friend of a friend, who is the friend of the guy who bought the turbo new in japan!) that this turbo has done less than 2000km's in japan, cost me 1800bucks. Took it to ATS for inspection and they confirmed its perfect.

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Originally posted by SLY33

evo- fuel pumps are INTERNAL on 33's and yes can still hear buzzing.  No std turbo not good for 230rwkw.

SLY 33, how loud is your 044?

- mine I can only just hear it with the ignition on but engine switched off. I have a nismo exhaust with dual muffler so it just purrs at idle, but I cant hear the pump at all.

I wouldnt be in a hurry with the extreme clutch - mine was good for about 6 months then it started dying. I know a couple of other guys who had problems running just over 300rwhp.

I ended upgrading to a os giken twin, wish I had gone that way in the first place.

Nice score on the turbo by the way, you'd have to be happy:)

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the buzings not that loud but when the exh isnt booming i can hear it. During summer when it gets warm the buzz gets quite loud.

Apparently the extreme clutch doesnt like to be slipped, when i got mine i was told that if i tried to slip it each take off it wouldnt last long, and to just let it out and it would be fine. ive had mine about 6 months, lots and lots of launches, no troubles yet...

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Steve: The one pictured is a 52T, but I also have a 56T trim. Actually, the one pictured is damaged (turbine wheel) but I hope to get it repaired soon, if it can be repaired. The 56T I used on my EVO4...how can you tell if it's the current or older model???

What's the difference with your turbo? Do you have a pic?

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