Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys.. Looking at upgreading my brake pads and disks on my S2 R33...

I was thinking going Slotted break disks and maybe Green stuff pads...

any oppinions and suggestions would be good..

I'm not too sure were the best palce i can source good/cheap break disks or pads form so any help would be good...

thanks guys =]

Edited by Royalflush
just put a set of DBA street series slotted rotors on the rear of my r33 with a set of ferodo XL pads... awesome braking now they are run in...

I won't get into a DBA vs. RDA argument, cause they never end well, but the one thing people are starting to agree on quickly is QFM pads...

If you just do street stuff, then the QFM HPX pad is the same sort of performance as something like a Bendix Ultimate, but if you ever plan to do track work, or want the best street brakes available, the QFM A1RM is still a 100% streetable pad, and is good for 780 degrees, and what we personally run in the rally car. Group buy pricing of half price rears is sort of just sticking around, so you can get front and rears A1RMs delivered to your door for $191, or $131 for the HPX.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Au...ra-t231267.html

Some of the recent reviews of QFM:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Br...t&p=4138203 (SAU)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Br...t&p=4141983 (SAU)

http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/820679-post3.html

http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/index....mp;p=1282156408

http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/index....mp;p=1282506286

For more information checkout www.qfmperformance.com

I need prices.. 4x new disks & 4x new pads.. where to buy and whats best for street?

Check in the Group buy section of the forum for RDA prices, as they're very good, and I won't take it away from them. But with regards to the pads, if its street only, then QFM HPX pads are as good as Bendix Ultimate's in performance, but minus the dust and rotor wear. I'm still honoring the group buy pricing of half price rears, which makes a front and rear set delivered to your door for $131.

Cheers,

Greg

Definitely check out the Group Buy section, there are good prices on slotted rotors and EBC or QFM pads, cheaper than buying through a normal auto parts store (unless you know someone there who can get them at discount or staff price).

Honestly, having running std rotors, old school DBA rotors, new/current design DBA rotors and RDA rotors....if there is nothing wrong with your std rotors then keep them.

If they are undersized then sure replace them...but if they are ok thickness wise then keep them. Speak to your local brake shop to see if they can do $100 worht of machining some slots in them. It may be viable. The more i see of DBA and RDA rotors they are a cheap replacement rotor, not really great replacement rotors. The DBA 4000 series arent too bad for sporting driving but thats about the limit of them. RDA, well you get what you pay for and if you start to throw lots of heat through them i dont think they do as good a job as std or DBA rotors. Just an opinion....not a fact :P

Just ensure you run a good performance pad and good brake fluid. Pad feel is veyr much a case of driver preference so you may have to try a few until you find some you like.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
×
×
  • Create New...