Jump to content
SAU Community

Endless or Bendex Ultimate Pads??

NA_R33
 Share

Recommended Posts

Clint32 Mentor

Clint32

Posted
Posted

Thats a bit like saying r34 GTR or non turbo 32 gts whats better, the GTR is better but it costs about 10 times the price.

Ulitmate pads are ok for the street but are very dusty, race brakes rb74 are much better with little dust and are about $150 set, endless are a very good pad with different grades but would be $300+ a set, what do you require from the pads?

jlnewton Grand Master

jlnewton

Posted
Posted

I went for the Bendix Ultimate as I was running out of money at the time. They went well at the last track day at Queensland raceway, but yeah a set of RD74s would be nice, alot of the guys out there use them. And yeah, the ultimates are the dustiest pads I have ever used!

51jay Mentor

51jay

Posted
Posted

I have Endless NA-R and despite the fact that they are described as a "specialist circuit pad" heat range 300 -800 C they have been on the car since last December and are excellent on the track ,dragstrip and circuit. They feel just like a normal pad ,are not especially dusty and just stop the car whether it's the end of the dragstrip, the main straight at W'bank for the 7th time or the first traffic light on your way to Maccas.

Considering the cost of my car, the cost of all the extras on it , the fact that one of my favourite sons drives it on the racetrack and Mary's favourite husband (me ) drives it on road and track I consider it to be $456 well spent even though the price curled my toes up at the time.

JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted
www.racebrakes.com.au for phone numbers. Fronts should be $150 or less (tell them you're from SAU and you get the club discount), not sure about rears. Apparently Comp 9's on the rear are a better match for RB74's on the front, but speak to the guys at the shop.
siksII Grand Master

siksII

Posted
Posted

My pads are 60,000kms old, (ive used them for about 7k since ive had the car) and they still have more than 50% left. I have endless NA-M pads....after seeing that they have lasted this long, i would definetly see them as worthwhile replacements.

They may be overkill for street use, the rb74's might be much better value for money, but i havnt used them so couldnt say.

But yes the endless pads are excellent, not much dust, and they bite hard when hot or cold, plus i have never felt any fade.

Only downside being they apparently eat through the rotor faster than other pads.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Alpha omega racing bracket

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Dissimilar metal corrosion. Aluminium is less noble than steel/iron, and will corrode preferentially when in contact with it and a conductive solution (ie, wet road salt). Tends to suggest that those brackets should be made in steel for a shitty climate like the UK.
    • drifter17a
      Alpha omega racing bracket

      By drifter17a · Posted

      Here is picture of the rear brackets again seeming to have eating itself or corrode or whatever. Can’t describe it , hope someone could explain this    
    • drifter17a
      Alpha omega racing bracket

      By drifter17a · Posted

      No i am in the uk so maybe road salt etc but checked rear and same story where handbrake cable seems to have eaten part of the bracket. Have emailed alpha omega waiting for reply
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I've not looked at a GTR without the booster there. Is the hole and mount on the firewall not just the same as GTSt? I would have expected it to be. Nissan don't change panel stampings if they don't have to, and you'd think they'd just order/design the booster to mount to the same place.
    • GTSBoy
      Skyline R34 Suspension Drama

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      They have all sorts of "failure" modes. When they are brand new, the can either be very very tight, or reasonably mobile. If they are reasonably mobile, you'll probably have a good start. If they are very tight, then they can catch/grab at every little motion, and they mark the ball or the outer race, tearing off whatever teflon lining is in the outer race, then they can rapidly degenerate from there. If they get wet, they can just rust. They are just steel and will turn red pretty quickly. Water can get in behind them and sit and cause them to become crunchy and then proceed to tear themselves up, as above. Same with grit and dirt. Manufacturers and OEMs of the arms that use them will tell you that because they are teflon lined (well, the good ones, anyway), you shouldn't grease them. If you do grease them, then the grease will catch any passing grit and dirt and hold it in place where it can cause damage. Race teams that have them will lubricate them thoroughly. They will also inspect them every 5 minutes and replace them every 10 minutes, if need be. Some manufacturers of arms will provide dust boots. These can help, but they are seldom perfect, and sometime just make the situation worse, being a place where crap can collect. I have made nappies for some of mine with PVC sheet and race tape, to try to minimise the access of crap. When they wear, you can get a tiny tiny amount of movement between the ball and the outer race. This will make clicking noises. It will also make the arm have "slop" in that the tiny amount of movement available at the inner end of an arm can cause a lot of movement out at the outer end. 0.05mm at 5mm from the pivot becomes 4mm 400mm away from the pivot. If they are too tight and binding, they impede the proper motion of the suspension arm and put loads into it and the rest of the suspension that are not supposed to be there, and can cause failure. Think broken welds, broken threaded sections on the adjustable parts, mounts ripped off the chassis, etc. All of these are possible, which is the main reason why they are essentially illegal on the road in Australia.
×
×
  • Create New...