Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I was going to buy a Bee*r rev limiter for my 33 GTR just to keep it to 7000 revs or less just to be safe.

But someone said the power fc i have comes with an in built rev limiter that you can set. Is this true?

I tried the manual but dont speak japanese! lol

Does anyone have a step bystep to changing it?

And is it safe to realy on the power fc rev limiter?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238257-power-fc/
Share on other sites

Yep, i have mine set to 6900 rpm. I believe its in the setting menu and then rev/idle or something. All you do is keep pressing up or down on how many revs you want it to limit to, very easy.

Some people set it to 3000 rpm when they give they're cars to a mechanic for a service so they don't go thrash it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238257-power-fc/#findComment-4165377
Share on other sites

i have a similar question to finchies.

is it true that the pfc limiter cuts fuel, and not ignition????

this would explain the no bang bang and just dying like hitting a wall

Edited by r33cruiser
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238257-power-fc/#findComment-4165961
Share on other sites

pfc cuts fuel..... im not 100% sure but im pretty sure its a fuel cut.... even tho mine went bang bang nicely aswell. but in saying that my mates stock 33 with a lil bit of boost increase does almost the same just not as loudly. im pretty sure if the pfc cuts igniton and not fuel there would be many ppl complaining of blocked catalytic converters due to the extra fuel....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238257-power-fc/#findComment-4166281
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How to wreak havoc at a bogans party... Swap out the goon bag hanging from the clothes line with oil bag... Watch chaos ensue during Goon of Fortune....
    • Hey everyone,   I’m looking for some advice on replacing the timing belt on my RB25DET Neo-powered 1998 Skyline. The engine was fully built about five years ago, including a fresh timing belt, water pump, and other essentials. However, since then, the car has only covered around 2,000–3,000 miles. It’s currently making around 650hp.   Even though the mileage is low, I know timing belts have a time-based lifespan too, and most recommendations suggest changing them every five to six years or 50,000 miles. Since I’m at that time mark, I’d rather not take any risks and plan to swap it out soon.   A few things I’d like to hear opinions on: 1. What’s the best belt for this setup? Should I go with an OEM Nissan belt, or is the HKS fine-tune a better choice given the power level? 2. Would you bother replacing the idler pulley and tensioner at the same time, or only if they show wear? 3. When swapping the belt, is it necessary to lock the cam and crank gears in place, or is lining up the timing marks enough? I’ve seen different approaches, and I want to make sure I do it right.   The water pump was changed with the rebuild and isn’t run off the timing belt, so I don’t see a need to replace it again. I just want to make sure I approach this the right way.   Any insight would be much appreciated. Thanks!
    • How does this compare to the internally gated g25-550 in terms of power production at same psi and spool
    • Did you find that your voltage of the battery wasn't where it's normally supposed to be? for example on my r34, it's at 14.5v when running after a few seconds, but I noticed when I had a rough start and it initially wasn't idling correctly, the voltage on my triple gauge cluster was showing lower than usual. Seems like the alternator is starting to crap itself
×
×
  • Create New...