Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I need a new exhaust manifold gasket and the studs/bolts for the RB25DET.

Does anyone know where to get one from ? are they the same as the RB30 ?

Also, what about the studs/bolts ?

If anyone could point me in the right direction ie. Part numbers etc (can i get these at my local repco?)

Thanks guys ;)

In Sydney i got the gasket and all new studs from Nissan (there are 3 Nissan dealers to the best of my knowledge in Sydney flogging new Nissan import parts)

The Nissan studs are mild steel jobbies. If you can get an R33 stud go to someone like Hobson Fasteners and gets some nice High Tensile Studs (i will be if the manifold ever comes off again)

joel i can assure u the break very easy cause people overtighten them ( u must use a torque rench ) and they get brittle cause they get very hot then cool down and again and again , its very common with the skyline ( broken exhaut manifold studs )

Roy:

The Nissan studs are mild steel jobbies. If you can get an R33 stud go to someone like Hobson Fasteners and gets some nice High Tensile Studs (i will be if the manifold ever comes off again)

I understand the standard studs break rather easily however if you seek aftermarket hight tensile studs these shouldn't break.

hi, i had some exhaust studs break too.

They were number 5 & 6 cylinders. They are a real bugger to drill out whilst the motor is in place. I was quoted about $600 to do it, so I bought the studs and washers and gasket from nissan for about$150 and hired a 90 degree drill($20) and replaced the studs with the help of my dad- took the best part of a Saturday - dismantling, drilling, fitting studs and reinstalling everything.

I used some really unusual screw extractors (looks like a rod with about 8 ridges running down the length of the extractor - some german brand), 'just drill ahole in the centre of stud' and bang them in and twist - was quite easy to extract them BUT not easy to drill!, tip... leave exhaust manifold on if you can to help guide the drill, save slipping off and drilling the soft aluminium.

I'm glad bolts were mild steel, very easy to slip off centre with drill. I agree with the person who said the high tensile ones go brittle and can break too, there is alot of weight hanging off them (turbo and front of exhaust system).My mild steel bolts lasted about 12 years.

Stephen

stephen , the tools u use to extract the studs are called easyout. u must drill the right size hole it tells u on the easyout bit put the easyout in the hole turn anticlockwise and out she comes .

u 'll find if u dont touch these studs they wont break but when people take manifold off they usualy do them to tight so they break soon after . dont forget that they get very hot and then cold so they become brittle too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How's your first born doing? 😛 As for now what? Time to forget about it for 12 to 18 months while your go down a totally unrelated rabbit hole... 😛
    • Fuse taps are perfectly fine to use, especially when you're adding stuff for your own car, and so long as you're being smart about it. IE, don't throw a 30amp circuit, onto a circuit that is only a small circuit. It's best to add a small circuit, to one that is already quite large. Oh, and make sure you're not going to blow the fuses that are further upstream too! I dislike their use in other applications, such as alarms, telematics/tracking devices etc, as it's far too easy for someone to unplug them and render a system useless. Those sorts of devices I go for wiring in quite secretively.
    • Fob is all cleaned up and it’s working well!! The amount of Vegemite looking sh*t that was in there is mind blowing 
    • Given it is temporary, I bought a  cheapy gauge mount (which has become enflattened) which I will screw into the existing phone mount Also a first for me; given this is a temporary install I could not think of any reason not to use one of those "add a fuse" thingies to source the battery and IGN power. I had always figured they were pretty dodgy but having a good look at them I think they are a valid option for sourcing power from an existing source without cutting 
    • Finally for now, a bit more work on the transmission temp gauge. I was wondering how Raceworks do a gauge for $100 that autometer want $500 for. No idea about the accuracy of course, but they have cut a few corners that made things hard.  First one I mentioned above, the sender is physically difficult to fit and doesn't work with their own adapters (the extra fittings I used to get the sender into a hose cost more than the whole gauge, lucky I had stuff in the shed) Second, the temp sender wires are way too short. They are shown as 2.7m on the box and I know my routing was long from navigator headlight to driver's firewall back to centre console, but I had to lengthen them by about 2m total - 2 joins in each wire. Also, same with the supplied power loom, they needed about an extra 1m to get the fuse box where I sourced power. Another join in each wire since one end wasn't supplied terminated. I know they could argue that the wires might be long enough depending on situation, but when you consider parts and particularly labour, it would be a very expensive cheap gauge if you can't do the work yourself. And, only a small issue....but it would have been nice if they remembered to tap a tread onto *both* spacers they supplied for the bracket....I haven't had to use the M4 tap often!
×
×
  • Create New...