Track Preparation

[400HP]

Hi All,

I've heard of too many cars having blown engines, dead clutches, cracked discs, stuffed pads and the list goes on from track...

I have a few questions:

1) Are there any major things that need to be done to prepare the car for the track? eg. oil cooler and its effectiveness

2) Is it a requirement that a fire extinguisher be installed for the track?

3) What kind or license do you need?

Thanks

[Silver-Arrowz]

If you have a GTR, oil cooler is highly recommended. Oil temp passing 120 is not very good and GTR's oil temps go up very quick on the track.

Drop tyre pressure. You'll have to play around with this yourself to suit yourself.

[blind_elk]

2) Yes, but not BCF. 900g minimum weight, AS1841 - dry powder is the usual type. Must be mounted firmly in the car, ie not tied to the passenger seat with an occy strap. And within easy reach of the driver.

3) What kind of motorsport do you want to do? If you are doing CAMS stuff, 2S is the minimum requirement, entitles you to do normal club supersprint stuff. If you want to do races, then you need a 3C licence.

Also, you need a secondary bonnet restraint system ie in addition to the manufacturer's lock. Bonnet pins are best, but if you don't want to drill holes in your bonnet, then some sort of belt through the bonnet frame and around the bumper / radiator support will suffice. Again, not an occy strap, it must be non-extensible.

[Silver-Arrowz]

Oh, and another thing. Drive the car like a road car. Driving like Schuey or Senna will cause your car to overheat quickly and likely to blow something or go "rally" driving.

Driving smoothly will get quicker times than driving like a maniac.

[XrSiSt]

Originally posted by Silver-Arrowz

Driving smoothly will get quicker times than driving like a maniac.

I second that!

[400HP]

Cool.... thanks guys...

This is jsut for EC Lap Runs... dunno what their requirements are.

Do you guys know where in Sydney I can get the bonnet thing done cheap but done properly?

Cheers

[Silver-Arrowz]

What bonnet thing?

[400HP]

this thing

Also, you need a secondary bonnet restraint system ie in addition to the manufacturer's lock. Bonnet pins are best, but if you don't want to drill holes in your bonnet, then some sort of belt through the bonnet frame and around the bumper / radiator support will suffice. Again, not an occy strap, it must be non-extensible.

[Scott d]

Originally posted by Silver-Arrowz

Drop tyre pressure. You'll have to play around with this yourself to suit yourself.

Do not drop tyre pressure if u are running street tyres. Street tyres do not have the stiff side walls like race tyres. If anything, INCREASE tyre pressure to give a stiffer sidewall.

[Silver-Arrowz]

If you don't drop the tyre pressure, it will overheat the tyres after a few laps. Drop the pressure so when heated it will come up to normal road tyre pressures, thus holding the tyre walls up.

[51jay]

might need a restraint loop for the tailshaft

regarding tyre pressures for drag strip lots of people lower the REAR only to around 15 to 18psi if running street tyres for track work it is more usual to raise pressures all round to around 45 to 50psi...........I would advise you to ring the state headquarters of whichever tyre you want to use and ask their tech department for advice...... not the local tyre fitters or the people (including me) on this forum.

Remember.... the idiot who advises you to run lower pressures in anticipation of overheating raising them again will NOT be sitting beside you when one of them blows out

[Duncan]

The extinguisher and secondary bonnet tie downs (and C2 license) are only for club supersprint events.

For regular track days, just take your car down as is. You'll need long clothes and a full face helmet. Your car just needs to be roadworthy (tyres OK for tread, nothing loose etc).

For tyre pressures, only ever measure hot, ppl recommend different levels, but I would suggest 38-42 psi (HOT). You'll need lower on hot days, and check that its still OK after each session. As long as your suspension is not too hard you'll get great results with higher pressures. In any case, most road tyres won't last too may track days.....

[Munro]

Yeah,

Mine is Blue.:uh-huh:

[franks]

i believe bonnet pins are not road legal. they look extremely ricey too

if your only doing once a month private trackdays, there isn't much point for an extinguisher or a CAMS license. bare street trim with perhaps an oil cooler, oil sump baffle, surge tank and maybe a bigger front mount will be fine imho. (this is of course on a stock GTR)

what i also suggest is a dedicated set of brake pads and track wheels and tyres. r specs would be nice, perhaps a set of Falken Azenis (cheaper) or Dunlop DJ01's?

most importantly, don't over do it. keep it simple, 1 warm up lap, 3 or 4 hot laps depending on your pads, tyres and other equipment and then 1 or 2 warm down laps for each session.

ps. dont pull your handbrake up in the garage area after a session

[red900ss]

Originally posted by 400HP

Cool.... thanks guys...

This is jsut for EC Lap Runs... dunno what their requirements are.

Do you guys know where in Sydney I can get the bonnet thing done cheap but done properly?

Cheers

You can use a simple webbing type strap available from car accessorie places, Kmart etc. The 1" ones work well.

It's just to stop the bonnet flying up and getting intimate with the windscreen if the latch fails so it doesn't have to hold the bonnet fully closed.

Loop it around a strong part of the car (a bracket etc) and through a strong part of the underside of the bonnet, adjust it down so you can just fit your hands under to loosen it later. MAKE SURE THE LOOSE END OR ANY OTHER PART CANNOT GET CAUGHT UP IN THE FAN, BELTS ETC

If in doubt get someone who knows what they're doing to do it.

Check all the fluids and have the brakes bled.

Inflate your tyres to around 40 psi (check with your tyre place for correct inflation).

A fire extinguisher is a good idea. Just make sure it is securely attached so you don't end up with it flying around the cabin in an accident.

I push it hard for a few laps and always give the car at least 1 lap to cool down. If you punish it, things will break. My stock brakes and pads don't show much wear after a track day. It's all about how you treat them.

It may sound like a bit of stuffing around to get the car ready but it's well worth it. Everyone who drives should get on a race track.

What do you drive?

[Guest SadisticRage]

Originally posted by 400HP

Hi All,

I've heard of too many cars having blown engines, dead clutches, cracked discs, stuffed pads and the list goes on from track...

I have a few questions:

1) Are there any major things that need to be done to prepare the car for the track? eg. oil cooler and its effectiveness

Thanks

A few good ideas.

1. Oil cooler is good but equally important is good, clean, high quality oil.

2. Brakes: if not already done bleed fluid to a good quality fluid with high dry boiling point. Use good quality pads, I find DS3000 Ferodo or Mintex M1166 good for basic track work.

3. Tyres: Usually you should be looking for a 4-6psi rate of expansion as the tyre heats so dropping the pressure by a similar amount when the tyres are cold should avoid it becoming skittish and ensure an even contact patch as the tyre warms.

4. GTRs also have a bad record of oil surge so sump baffles (although not cheap) are a worthwhile investment.

5. Fire extinguisher. If not compulsory get one anyway. Small ones can be bolted to the two bolts at the front of the passengers seat.

Other than that give the thing a good check over and although it sounds obvious, get rid of anything in the car or boot that isnt tied down.

Make good use of cool down laps to get rid of heat in the brakes and engine and make a habit of moving the car back and forwards a few inches every 30 seconds or so for a few minutes once you do stop. This avoids warping brake rotors.

[red900ss]

Originally posted by SadisticRage

3. Tyres: Usually you should be looking for a 4-6psi rate of expansion as the tyre heats so dropping the pressure by a similar amount when the tyres are cold should avoid it becoming skittish and ensure an even contact patch as the tyre warms.

I disagree.

Tyres should be inflated 2-4 psi more than normal road pressure. The reason you are getting a "4-6 psi rate of expansion" is the tyre flexing excessively and heating up. This in turn heats the air which then expands and the pressure increases.

Running too low pressure reduces tyre life and increases the chance of damage to the tyre/wheels if you hit a ripple strip.

just my $0.02

[Duncan]

Originally posted by red900ss

I disagree.

Tyres should be inflated 2-4 psi more than normal road pressure. The reason you are getting a "4-6 psi rate of expansion" is the tyre flexing excessively and heating up. This in turn heats the air which then expands and the pressure increases.

Running too low pressure reduces tyre life and increases the chance of damage to the tyre/wheels if you hit a ripple strip.

just my $0.02

I think you guys mean the same thing - 4-6psi is common difference from cold to warm temps (on a cool day, can be higher when its a hot day). Always measure hot temps.

Slightly higher than normal round pressure - ie towards 38-40psi will give much better handling.

BTW, what do you mean "if you hit a ripple strip". Aren't they the colourful things you are meant to aim for???

(another 2c in the thread...)

[NISMO]

Hey Guys,

As far as tyre pressure is concerned it's also a safety issue. By increasing the trye pressure your less likely to have the tyre jump off the rim should you have an off onto the dirt or grass. If you have lower pressure yes the car will perform better ( street tyres ) but if your not experienced, the last thing you want is going off sideways at 140 + km/h and the tyre coming off the rim. This equals rim digs into the dirt and then it's rolly polly time.

I'd also recommend paying attention to your brakes. Use a decent set of pads, bleed the brakes before the day, and preferrably replace the fluid with one that has a high boiling point. I use Motul race fluid, which mixes with the remains of your standard fluid and has a high boiling point. Finally never put your handbrake on straigh after coming off the track, as the heat can warp your discs.

My 2c

[red900ss]

Originally posted by Duncan

I think you guys mean the same thing - 4-6psi is common difference from cold to warm temps (on a cool day, can be higher when its a hot day).  Always measure hot temps.

Nope, start with a higher pressure.

Slightly higher than normal round pressure - ie towards 38-40psi will give much better handling.

I agree.

BTW, what do you mean "if you hit a ripple strip".  Aren't they the colourful things you are meant to aim for???

(another 2c in the thread...)

heh, "aim for" and "hit" are two entirely different things :lol:

btw Duncan, I'm the guy with the gunmetal R33. We shared the garage at E/Creek in june (I think??).