Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

umm peter also asked me this Q, the only place around are area is carmate right?? LOL ill probably buy it from there and paint/fit it at Xtreme Bodykits in Warwick Farm. You know of any other places??

Also was looking through PowerPlayImports site with their Eastbear conversion kit.. they had nice looking side skirts and rear bar hehe might be anothe option, no idea about cost though

Yeap only carmate that i know of lol

i found a supplier in china who does the full kit for $300 USD + del but unsure of quality and dont want to risk it.

Hi People's. You probably seen my car here but its changed and finally completed. I posted pictures from when i bought it, to what it looks like right now.

25759757.jpg

Sprayed my Rims Gloss Black:

36157114.jpg

Took Off my Spoiler:

38326880.jpg

Trialed Fitted my new front bumper:

70863402.jpg

Modded the front grill part:

52024528.jpg

Fibreglassed the gaps in the grill and used body filler:

45446382.jpg

Added Rear pods:

76594243.jpg

Finished Painted Front Bar:

32259404.jpg

Garland you can try to get a hold of Josh by going down to Taren Point.. that's what i had to do. However, there's no certainty he will be there lol

thanks Shenan. lol but by the looks of things of what ppl had wrote here i think theres def no chance for me to ever own a ztune style front bar :blush:

Aznbongsta is that the frontbar from that Ebay dude (mybodykits or something like that) ? How's the quality of the front ..did it need a lot of modifying? easy to paint or did you get that typical fibreglass ripple look after painting?

my front is bugging me too as its higher than the sideskirts and rearbar ... stock frontbar. But I don't want a superlow frontbar thats impractical for a daily or something that cracks easily... There's really not that much choice out there for R34s is there :)

Theres always that nissan optional factory lip but I'm not into the whole snowplough look and plus they're so rare it's not worth even looking for one.

Aznbongsta is that the frontbar from that Ebay dude (mybodykits or something like that) ? How's the quality of the front ..did it need a lot of modifying? easy to paint or did you get that typical fibreglass ripple look after painting?

Hi Delta Force. Yes that bar is from him.

The quality? i would have no idea, its my first fibreglass item so i got nothing to compare it to.

Nothing to mod at all unless your talking about my own personal mod i did, ALso my first time.

Painting? no idea either, just went to get quotes and my panel beater did the rest.

Ripples? no idea as well, looks good to me, like a normal panel to me.

Thanks mate sounds like it's probably of decent quality then. How do you find it for daily duties? Too impractical for everyday driving or ok ?

Parking is a bugger, driving is a bugger, its sits alot alower than the stock bumper probably around 5-7cm lower.

So pretty impratical but for the looks its worth it. Haha

could you do me a favour and measure height of the bar from just under the parker light downwards to the end of the lip ? When I asked the seller he said it's only 23mm lower than the stock bar which doesn't sound too low at all (unless your front suspension is lowered a lot)

edit: also from bonnet down to the end of the bottom lip too please if you can

Edited by Delta Force

Aznbongsta,

I was thinking about doing the exact same mods to that bar from ebay, looks great now that i see the mods done. did you have to open up the blinker holes to get them to sit in there also? it doesnt look like they would fit unless you open up the hole... any more pics of it from the front?

also, is it two piece or one piece? i looks like you have some string holding the lip together with the bar?

Edited by BATMBL
  • 4 weeks later...

For looks i give it 2 thumbs up but it hurts the hip pocket a bit.

$5 HUNDRED AND 7 Tee 3 DOLLARS....a little bit rich considering most full kits available are copies and it would be kinda silly to go genuine on a lip.

also i think aznbongsta just painted the lower section black, anyhow it looks awesome as it is...well done

Edited by humsup34

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...