Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Quick one on how I did it;

Cut out a peice of thick plywood to size, prepped it, painted it matte black and then glued the shithouse out of it on the back, but the gauges can still pop out if need be. (the whole unit will be resprayed next week). Cut the holes to size, popped in the gauges and off I went.

The reason you need the ply is because the gauges are too small for the hole in the stock gauge pod..in fact the stock gauge pod is not circular, slightly oval shaped. But you cannot see any gap at all around the gauges, but I painted the ply black just in case.

To install the turbo timer, all i did was pop out the two existing switches which were located there. (fog lights and a blank), and cut out the middle between the two with a knife then sanded the edges smooth, the greddy full auto timer is a direct fit in there, i didnt need to brace it in the back or anything as its a really tight fit.

man i wish i thought of that, i might have to move mine now :) , gauges look the goods too mate, i think that's next on my list, but i think i'll change the volt meter for an air/fuel mixture gauge. top job :P

Next gauge im getting is a volt gauge, but im cutting out the cigarette lighter and placing it flush there.

hey nice job on the turbotimer mate, I was looking at doing the same thing with my boost controller which is pretty much the same size to the turbo timer. Was there much room behind your timer when you put it in? And did you just stick the fog light switch on the blank switch panel on the left of the steering wheel?

hey nice job on the turbotimer mate, I was looking at doing the same thing with my boost controller which is pretty much the same size to the turbo timer. Was there much room behind your timer when you put it in? And did you just stick the fog light switch on the blank switch panel on the left of the steering wheel?

Hey,

Sooo much room behind the timer, and i just ditched the fog light switch as i removed the fog lights all together too.

  • 2 weeks later...
Hi Guys,

Today I've been hard at work, this time, centre three gauges redone and the turbo timer installed.

The results speak for themselves, here are the pictures. Comments welcome.

wow that looks sooo clean and professinal

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...