Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

in regards to the top question my car before i had it rebuit was set to 20psi running everyday pump fuel it let go a month later because the head gasket blew.

a few other things contributed too but anyway dont run over 20psi unless you got race fuel

pump fuel sucks dude you will blow your 20 pretty quick if youve just bolted up everything to a stocker

im making 241rwkw now after my expensive rebuild the engine pumped out a 260kw run but we detuned just in case somethin let go

i reckon my car is capable of 280 - 300 kw if i stick some boost in it and tuned it to race fuel for a couple of passes

my other question to adam was that ive got a gt30 in mine now but its bloody laggy 5000rpm starts to com on hard

did cams make a big difference in your car?

im gonna change my turbo to the 3071r same power less lag? what you reckon?

i only ever ran bp98 in mine and from day one it was tuned on 20psi, then 24, then we went as high as 28 but from 26-28 it made no extra power so we backed it down. its all in the tune just keep it conservative and safe, dont try and push for every last hp

i dont think your headgasket let go because of the fuel, you would have had detonation and obvious signs of it on the pistons/head if it was a fuel issue

is your gt30 a 3082? i ran the .63 rear on mine and i can honestly say it wasnt THAT laggy haha for the power it could have potentialy made it was fine. 346@22psi on a tired motor is fairly respectable as far as a 20 goes.

asuming yours is the .82 rear id go about changing the rear housing befor doing cams.

yeah na pretty sure it is a .63 not sure on exact size but it is big

full boost at 5500 - 6000

my mechanic told me not to wind it up past 20psi on pump fuel. i am runnin v power

he did say ultimate is way better

i just wouldnt push a stocker that hard ay i dont even push mine to limit i got forgies and the lot in mine now

but i am gonna do a seperate tune on race fuel i reckon ill be pushing a fair bit more on that but only for like track days and sprints

im happy with a conservative 240 250 kw but still wanna bring it in lower i want full boost at 4500rpm

3071r or td06 here we come

how will a tdo6 bolt up to my car? i dont wanna buy a full kit.....

i got a gt30 on mine now but i dont even know what size the flange is

can you buy just a tdo6 turbo by itself?? what are they worth? not so easy to find ay

Between AD4M's trips to bizillion pounds of boost and trips to the drag strip, the drift guys belting of rev limiters and the abuse my car sees, i think you can say that if you keep an eye on the tune and water/oil temps then you can make a reliable 250rwkws from an RB20 with the right turbo.

Remember, RB20 has lower compression then other RBs from the factory so personally dont think a head gasket is a smart investment.

Good work on the feature AD4M, i binned my car at Sandown a few weeks before the planned shoot on my car last year. Still havent got the guard fixed so havent bothered to re-schedule.

In a sense i am envious of your TD06 setup as the larger exhaust housing allowed you to run some funny levels of boost. Thankfully i had a quick chat with the tuner of my car before i did some damage, as i was getting close to maxing out my GTR injectors when i wound the boost up 22-23psi...so thought it was fuelling at the top end that was the problem when it pinged.... it seems its the fact that my back pressure through the tiny 8cm housing was what was causing the detonation at 8k in 4th gear . Seems about 19-20psi is the sweet spot for my car and the 8cm housing :)

My mate and i both run hks 2835 pro s turbo's (3071's in essence) on stock rb25's with the same mods... Only difference is cams. I have 265 rwkw without cams and see full boost by around 3500 his car has 275 rwkw and sees full boost around 4000

just some food for thought

  • 2 weeks later...

Guys just found out the serial number on my turbo i am still unsure of housing size think its .63 and a/r .70

serial number 700177 - 5014

ive tried to google search it and find it on the garret website but i cant get hard evidence on what it actually is??

can anyone help

i wanna compare it too a 3071r

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey, yeah I really like the color. Only paint I'd rather have is KN6, but those are expensive. Right now I'm trying to get the car to the point where I can get it tuned to 370hp so the whole setup can be driven legally, and pass the next inspection that is already due anyway. Beyond that lots of rust fixing I'm afraid, winter project is most likely going to be a front end teardown and fixing the strut tower rust. I know these can be driven daily but I don't think I will do so anytime soon. Will post a build thread soon with a list of issues and futute plans.   Cheers
    • Wanted to reply to this topic. I'm in the somewhat same boat with our Stagea. I'm trying to install a different rear diff. The Stagea/Skyline uses mounts on top of the rear diff for the ATTESA pump. Any way you can relocate the pump? I did find this kit https://theskylineshed.com/products/nissan-oem-attesa-mounting-kit-to-suit-r32-r33-r34
    • So here's the deal, my wife picked up an S2 AWD Stagea. Super cool, clean car. Looks like the owner in Japan went track spec as it's got some heavy modifications including Exedy twin disk, tension rods, coilovers, GTR brakes, oil cooler & a Nismo 2 way rear diff. Now, cool mods for sure. But, she is just using this as a casual daily driver. The 2 way rear is AGGRESSIVE. It also has solid subframe bushings & poly diff bushings. So that doesn't help either. So far I've tried changing the diff fluid to the correct fluid. Even tried a little friction modifier. No help. This thing clunks, skips the tires & has some slight whine/NVH when driving. Might sound like I'm being picky, but just trying to find a better solution. Here in the states, it's impossible to find a Stagea rear diff. No luck. I do have a 300zx non-turbo diff. Same ratio, 5 bolt axles. On the Stagea, you need both front & rear diff ratios to match. This car is a 4.083. I'd like to just swap a normal rear diff into this thing. Nothing fancy. Even open diff is fine. She's not tracking the car LOL The difference is that the ATTESA pump mounts to the top of the rear diff. There are 3 total mounting points for the pump on top of the diff. With all this being said, what would be the best way to go about this? I could remove the Stagea diff & see if I could get somebody to possibly weld the 3 tabs/mounting points onto the 300zx diff so we could mount the pump on the 300zx diff. I could swap the internals from the 300zx into the Stagea diff but this is not in my comfort zone. Is it possible to mount the ATTESA pump to the underside of the car? Sorry for the paragraph. Just trying to figure out how to go about this. Any help is much appreciated! Stagea Differential - Note two top tabs, one bolt hole for ATTESA pump mounting   300zx Diff - No mounting tabs Also found this mounting kit ?? https://theskylineshed.com/products/nissan-oem-attesa-mounting-kit-to-suit-r32-r33-r34  
    • Not ready yet, but maybe later in the year?
×
×
  • Create New...