Advice Needed..

[br3ndan]

Hey Guys,

So ive finally gotten around after been sidetracked with other modifications to my car, to finally start to increase the power.

Ive just gotten my hands on a SAFC 2 and was now wondering what type of boost controller to use?

Ive been thinking either pro spec 2, AVC R, E-O1 or EVC 5... ? What do you guys think?

Also in regards to tuning, i know their is a conslidated workshop, but any personal experience when it comes to getting a r33 tuned? Im SOR, i dont mind travelling NOR to get it tuned.. How long does this normally take?

And one more thing, atm i am only running a HKS Hi power Silent cat back system.. is it reccomended that i change this to a full turbo back before i tune it? If so, what parts do i need? Hi flow cat, dump pipe? Front pipe? What brands are good for this (Was going to go xforce, but heard it was no good)? I want to keep it quiet as i like to b a low profile.

I am also going to change my clutch in the near future (Holidays coming up, so bulk working to get cash!! ) Should this also be done before tune?? Or does it not affect it?

Cheers for your help guys.

Edited October 4, 2008 by br3ndan

[lunjiaow]

I would modify as much as i can before i take my car for a tune.

Maybe you could try ovaboost for tuning. i havnt been to them in ages for tuning. but i know they are good.

[br3ndan]

I would modify as much as i can before i take my car for a tune.

haha, if i did that, it would never get tuned! haha..

THats why i need to work out when i should tune it, im pretty sure i should at least get the full exhaust done? Since safc is "super air flow controller" ?

[ZXY]

ive had experience with the safc 2 and the avcr 2 and i would say they work pretty well together. If you have piggy backs, it shouldnt cost too much to retune after the first tune. I would definitely do the cheap stuff first like zorst and filter and small things like that before i have my first tune.

[lunjiaow]

Atleast get a full exhaust done to make it free flowing. maybe you could put a fuel pump and get an AVCR

When i got my car tuned by ovaboost with 3inch turbo back, SAFC, pod filter, 10psi i got around 220hp.

Then with front mount, fuel pump, and EBC at 12psi i got 270hp

[jarrod83]

Yeh i agree with lunjiaow, most of the tuning places told me to get spark plugs/ fuel pump before a tune otherwise its a waste of time tuning it.. i already has alot of the basic mods..

As for exhaust i already had bought a full exhaust before my car landed on the boat

When you go from full 2.5inch to full 3 inch in one hit.. man what a difference until this day its been the biggest increase in power ive had, but thats partly because on stock boost you get a few more psi out of the car

I was always told not to go those apexi avcr's by a few places.. they use the same boost control bit as the boost control kit on the apexi power fc's and theres a reason no one uses them, thats going on xspeed info anyway.. they also told me my car couldnt have a gtr diff, but yeh id recommend a blitz or or a greddy boost controller. the hks ones are good aswell but expensive, some of those turbosmart ones are good aswell

i got my car tuned by top racing n with a power fc i made 285rwhp on 12psi go the power fc lol

[br3ndan]

thanks for the advice so far guys

I already got hks pod and FMIC (installed couple of months ago in pepretation for boost increase) and 3 inch cat back, spark plugs were also change about 3 weeks ago to irridium ones, so looks like ill finsh up the exhaust so its 3 inch all the way first before the tune can anyone let me know exactly what i need/brand is best?.. As for the boost controller i am more leaning towards E01 .. anyone got any experience with it?

As for fuel pump, which one is best ? i am probably looking at 200kwish after the full exhaust and tune right? So any advice on fuel pump?

[inthisglass]

i have a Greddy profec boost contoller

i wouldnt recommend it, its too hard to change boost settings on it

just jap sells a split front/dump that bolts straight up and is about $250 from memory

[jarrod83]

id recommend one of those front/dump pipes in one with the open bellmouth, just with the amount of problems ive seen people have with the split ones not being able to control boost

the cat you can either go a cheap cheap crappy one like those 3inch x forces.. with a crappy core.. they are alrite for the 175 you pay for them.. i been using one for a while started off alright but i think its a little blocked up now.. or you could spend a little extra a get a metal core one for 400ish, lots of companies sell them.. catco, x force, metalcat, magic.. take your pick

they all flow pretty well and all claim to outflow the others, in the end i bought a 3.5inch xforce coz it was the only one i could find in stock for that size with flanges

fuel pump those walbro ones are the bottom of the barrel but do the job alrite, i think they are 170ish from slide, but i would probably lean towards a bosch one either the 040 or 044, if your confident with some simple wiring they are pretty easy to install.. they are around the 230mark or if you want a direct replacement ( comes with new cradle, wiring and filter ) go for the tomei/nismo ( same pump) i think slide sells them for 430 but theres some places like nengun that sell them in the high 300s.. maybe try greenline

[rev210]

just jap sells a split front/dump that bolts straight up and is about $250 from memory

They are certainly cheap. But they aren't well made at all.

[rev210]

Hey Guys,

So ive finally gotten around after been sidetracked with other modifications to my car, to finally start to increase the power.

Ive just gotten my hands on a SAFC 2 and was now wondering what type of boost controller to use?

Ive been thinking either pro spec 2, AVC R, E-O1 or EVC 5... ? What do you guys think?

Also in regards to tuning, i know their is a conslidated workshop, but any personal experience when it comes to getting a r33 tuned? Im SOR, i dont mind travelling NOR to get it tuned.. How long does this normally take?

And one more thing, atm i am only running a HKS Hi power Silent cat back system.. is it reccomended that i change this to a full turbo back before i tune it? If so, what parts do i need? Hi flow cat, dump pipe? Front pipe? What brands are good for this (Was going to go xforce, but heard it was no good)? I want to keep it quiet as i like to b a low profile.

I am also going to change my clutch in the near future (Holidays coming up, so bulk working to get cash!! ) Should this also be done before tune?? Or does it not affect it?

Cheers for your help guys.

What do you want to do with the car (daily/track/drag etc) and what sort of driver experience are you looking for?

What aspects (accelleration/braking/handling) are you looking to improve and whats most important?

Answering these can help get the money spent where it's going to give you the biggest buzz.

[br3ndan]

What do you want to do with the car (daily/track/drag etc) and what sort of driver experience are you looking for?

What aspects (accelleration/braking/handling) are you looking to improve and whats most important?

Answering these can help get the money spent where it's going to give you the biggest buzz.

My handling is good at the moment. I got sturt braces and HKS coilovers installed, that coupled with nice quality wide tyres has got my skyline to an acceptable handling mark for the moment.

Braking wise is still pretty stock, running some good quality bendix pads tho. So far thats the only upgrade their.

Power wise, im looking for a bit more "umph" on take off. when i first got the skyline it pushed me back into the chair, now after about 8 months driving, ive seem to have gotten use to it. And after spending big bucks on handling and just general maintaince (ive changed all fluids and i mean all! since i got the car and have changed radiator etc etc and im reguarly generally maintaining it (new sparkies o2 sensors etc)), its time to put a bit of money aside for power.

Hope this helps in giving me some more advice...

[R32 Driver]

I second the bellmouth design > split dump

as many of them said FMIC, boost controller, turbo back exhaust, fuel pump should see 260-280rwhp

All star Garage tunes SAFC2 for $200

[monga]

PROFEC B, simple to install and easy to operate. 2 settings high and low and hold boost well.

[Slowpoke]

PROFEC B, simple to install and easy to operate. 2 settings high and low and hold boost well.

I vouch for Profec B as well.. I had it on my car last time and whenever it hits boost, it just holds there really well

[rev210]

First cab off the rank is to get the clutch and flywheel lined up. The stock clutch friction plate will die.

If you want a good clutch setup for anything up to 400rwhp, Ross from Autoclutch in Osborne park can sort you out for one of his versions of a 9 puck ceramic 'sprung' clutch plate and I would consider going to a chrome molly flywheel ( more response and accelleration) while you are at it. Stick to the factory pressure plate pressure. You do not need more until really you are ready to bite the bullet for a twin plate. It's a mistake to get more pressure than you need and takes away from the driving experience.

The exhaust (front & dump pipe) can be done by a local exhaust place. My pick is Mettams Morley (ask for Pat) 21 Rudloc Rd, Morley, WA 6062 - (08) 9275 7034‎. The guy does amazing work and the prices are very low considering how good the quality is. Along with lots of other performance nuts I have utilised Pat's skill for many years on lots of cars.

[2LV8ETR]

I am also going to change my clutch in the near future (Holidays coming up, so bulk working to get cash!! ) Should this also be done before tune?? Or does it not affect it?

Definately go the clutch man. As soon as you put some real boost into your baby you'll fry it within a month. Go the ceramic/copper as the organic will wear quicker, and the ceramic/copper has more bite. 9 puck if you can.

As for exhaust, go the 3 inch all the way through. Whether you use a split dump and downpipe or dump/downpipie with divorced wastegate is up to you, but it's a must. Personally the divorced downpipe is better as it introduces the gases further down the system and produces less cavitation. Also a hi-flow cat is a must as the stockie is a restrictor.

I'm using a Walbro which is good for 450hp. Nothing wrong with that! Make sure it's genuine and not a cheap-ass asian knockoff and you'll be fine. Bosch's are the sweetest but for the power you'll be chasing the Walbro will do the trick.

[jarrod83]

the clutch go a 5puk exedy good for 300rwkw... little difficult to drive at first but is light and loves getting dropped hard mid 400s from slide and easy to install yourself, if you run into any troubles give us a message.. just make sure you have the clutch centred... i used some dowel(i think its 16mm) with some tape.. and jack the engine up abit makes it alot easier to get the gearbox back in... not that hard saves yourself a easy 500 dollars for an install you really do need 4 jack stands tho..

i disagree tho full 3 inch exhaust first.. up the boost abit and see how it goes.. a mate of mine's stock clutch lasted him a year like that.. mine lasted me 2 months but i do alot of burnouts n drop it alot.. but once it starts slippin abit you can just baby it until you have the money for the 5 puk =D

[br3ndan]

Thanks for you concern 2ltrv8

But i only plan to boost it to 0.7 bar... not much at all i know. But i think that way the clutch wont die so fast on me until i can replace it with some more heavier. Then after that i will turn up the boost a bit more.

Im just very confused with the dump/front pipe.. there are so many styles to choose from i really dont know what to pick.

I guess more research for me..~

[rev210]

The bell mouth is less problematic. To do a 'good' split involves a relatively long sepparation in order to caputre the turbulence benifit.

5 puck non-sprung clutches are rubbish to drive by comparison to the 9 puck sprung units availible.

Why budget for the clutch first?

*if you are making good power the factory clutch will die fast.

*banking on old parts not designed for the power increase, lasting is the dumber way of doing things with performance cars. The 'my mate had one that went for 10yrs' advice is sometimes dispensed by people with the disease of false hope. Get rid of that when you understand you have an addiction to cars, it saves you pain.

*when it dies you have the massive hassle of it potentially letting go somewhere you would rather not be stranded.

* If you have upgraded the clutch the odds of this hassle are pretty much nill.

Edited October 5, 2008 by rev210