R32 Gtr Stuttering

[BeEnAr]

Hey guys, I think I have the answer to my question before posting this but I want to make sure of a few things first.

Okay problem...

Got car serviced 3 weeks ago and changed oil to Castrol Edge Sport 5w30, plus all the other usual things. Car was running fine until about the last couple of days has been spluttering and stuttering intermittently. It does it at idle sometimes, other times it is under light or heavy load, cold, hot, basically at random times.

I put it down to 3 major things that it could be (in no particular order of importance)

1. Coils Packs

2. AFM

3. Spark plugs <-- almost a swear word round here lol

Checked the coils today at my mates workshop (3 point Mercedes) with their gear and they are fine. AFM is also fine and I gave it a good clean too. Only thing left was spark plugs.

I pulled them out too and they are pretty bad, #1 cylinder had next to no electrode left, all others were pretty low too, they are NGK 7 iridium or platinum.

Anyways, I went to mates local Repco, super cheap and auto barn and no one could tell me the right plugs for the car! Well no one I spoke to at first. One guy had the OEM NGK iridiums but only 3 in stock, same guy also told me NGK don't make non iridium or platinum plugs for RB26! What Ever!!

Anyways I gave up and stopped on the way home at my local supercheap and he was a HUGE help. I told him I wanted coppers he says "sure no probs" he had to do a cross reference of some numbers I gave him and he came up with NGK BKR6E-11.

I am going to put them in in the morning but what I wanted to know was...

Are the BKR6E-11 okay for the RB26? I have the same plugs in my Mazda Familia GTR so am a little hessitant as all the threads here say to use BCR not BKR.

Could you guys PLEASE HELP. If they are the wrong thing I will just take them back and get the right ones.

Thanks

[BeEnAr]

So does anyone know if the plugs are okay? Also could it be something else? O2 sensor is next on the list

[__PhaseShiftDown]

I think the copper ones most ppl use are BCPR6E, gapped to .8 if running above stock boost and .11 if stock boost.

[BeEnAr]

So the difference I can see between them is:

BCPR6E - 14mm thread diameter, Projecting Insulator Type, Resistor, 6 heat range, 19mm thread depth.

BKR6E-11 - 14mm thread diameter (Length from plug gasket circuit to terminal contact is 2.5mm shorter than BCP), Resistor, 6 heat range, 19mm thread depth, 1.1mm gap.

I suppose I will know for sure when I take teh oldies out and see if they match up in length.

Thanks for the help

[jantolis]

I have BKR7E's in my car and they are at 0.8mm gap but i had the same plugs gapped at 1.1mm with 1bar boost and they were fine.

[BeEnAr]

Thanks Jantolis. I pulled the plugs out today and checked the length with the NGK 7's i took out and they were the same size. They are gapped at 1.1 and are V grooved. They seemed to fix the problem for now but as it was an intermittent problem I will wait and see. Interestingly the car blows less smoke when boosting now and it has also stopped some of the backfiring.

I just wonder why the Jap owner had 7's in there as opposed to 6's, ah well until I put the car on a dyno to see how much power it is making I will not know if it is standard or not. I know it has a full Kakimoto exhaust off the turbo's, and it has a twin plate Nismo clutch, apart from that I don't know what has been changed and I have nothing to compare it too as it is the first GTR I have driven apart from the other one at the dealer which drove like shit!

[BeEnAr]

Ok, problem seems to be better but not gone. It is still hunting but not as bad, also when I hit around 6000rpm or higher it seems to run out of go, like it dies it the ass for a few miliseconds, could it be leaning out?

I pulled the kickpanel off the passenger side to check what ECU I have and it is a re-mapped Mines unit.

Also it seems I have aftermarket turbos too, I can't see the properly but I was told the stockies on a BNR32 are IHI stamped or may have Nissan on them, my ones are Garrett (can't see which ones though).

So from japan my car has the following;

- Garrett turbos (not much help without knowing which ones sorry);

- Mines ECU;

- Kakimoto Exhaust (I assume off the turbos as it has aftermarket front pipe as well as rear)

I don't know if it has Z32 AFM or not they have red stickers on them?? How can you tell?

- 1.1mm Gap BKR6's

- K&N Panel.

So I know Mies tune to what mods the car has, and they tune to 100 octane, so I can assume it was tuned to the mods the car has on it as they were all on the car at import, it does run rich as it pops and flames every now and then and I get the lovely fuel smoke out of the exhaust, I still get aroung 480km to the tank (freeway driving for me hehehe). It says on the mines website that if you give them the numbers abd letters on the sides of the ECU with pics in an email, they will tell you the rev limit, boost cut etc of the tune.

What could be causing my problems?? Should I dyno the car? Can they be re-tuned to Aus fuel? I would buy a PFC but the wife won't let me get one.

[GTRzilla32]

garret turbos on bnr32 from factory youd have to see the tag on one of the turbo cartidges and check numbers to see if there factory or not

[BeEnAr]

ok cool, I also read on here that the turbos in a 32 VSpec II are steel as opposed to ceramic. Is this confirmed or not? as I have only seen it mentioned on these forums and I don't know anyone else with a VSpec II that I can ask or compare to.

Could my problem also be as simple as K&N oil on the AFM's? When it got serviced the mechanic cleaned and re oiled the filter for me as he has all the stuff there for his mustangs.

Another thing to add, it starts from cold first time every time with no problems, however, when it's warm and I start it the revs are real low and slowly build up, I am running Castrol Edge 5w30 oil in it as I get it on the cheap seeing as I work for BP/Castrol head office

[BeEnAr]

Does anyone have any input that might help?

[Godzilla32]

Yes the oiled filters have been known to cause issues with the 'hot wire' AFM's. Id be changing that for a dry element. You can always buy a RAF17 (repco) or A360 (Ryco) filter which will drop straight in and see how you go. Wont be anymore than 20 bucks. Things to look at for the idle are Idle control valve, located under the plenum. If your getting cold start idle up then its pretty safe to say the Air regulator is operating properly. You could check that the TPS is adjusted correctly.

Theres a few things to keep you going anyway,

Deren

[BeEnAr]

Thanks dude,

I heard that the wire can break on the AFM too but I don't think that is the issue here as I can get cold idle no worries. Is the TPS easy to adjust? I am a backyard mechanic so don't really know what I'm looking for unless I go to my mates house as he is a mech. Also the idol control valve, how do I adjust it, I thought it was ECU controlled. What is the air regulator?

Oh and how is the rebuild going?? can't wait to see the finished product! Spewing you moved to QLD, I would have come to see it if you were in VIC still

[BeEnAr]

Spoke to my mechanic today, he didn't touch the TPS or the idle, so that narrows it down to just the Air filter oil on the AFM wires. I will clean them in Saturday with some contact cleaner and see how she goes. He said if it is still playing up aftr that then call him and he will see what else it could be. He's a pretty good dude, only charged me $250 for 100k service which was pretty sweet. He gets Nissan parts on the cheap as he does all the Nissan Patrol cop cars, CFA and SES and the dealer chops him out, plus for me!!

[BeEnAr]

OKay, update. I pulled out my airbox and AFM's today and cleaned the AFM's with the new CRC MAF sensor cleaner (not cheap either at $17 a can from Bursons) They were FILTHY!! I mean these were dirtier than the broad minded females down at st.kilda or the cross!! When I first got the car let's just say it had a questionable compliance done on it, things that were supposed to be changed weren't and I know for a fact that they should have been, anyway back on topic, the air filter element in the airbox was a HKS foam jobby and when I pulled it out it was completely disintegrated and was being sucked through my engine and spat out as glowing embers out of my exhaust! I cleaned all the crap outta the box as best I could but left the AFM's as it was running fine.

Today when I pulled them out for a clean there were bits of melted foam all over them, the botton AFM not too bad but the top seemed to cop the grunt of it all. I used 3/4 of the can cleaning them till the liquid ran clear. You should see the top intake pipe!! OMFG that is the next thing to pull off and clean. What I did see in there though was big metal spring type thing which I guess is there to stop the rubber hose from sucking closed, cool!

I also ripped out the black pad that sits in the bottom half of the airbox, must be there to deaden sound a bit, don't need that

Put it all back together and took it for a 20km drive, running perfectly!! And it pulls all the way to redline, where it used to go flat past 6k as the engine was probably leaning out!

I am happy as a coke head in columbia!!

Thanks for all the suggestions and help guys!

[jantolis]

I also ripped out the black pad that sits in the bottom half of the airbox, must be there to deaden sound a bit, don't need that

I was wondering what that foam is there for as well. If it's just for sound i might pull it out as well.

Good to hear everything is working good with your car.

[_K1NGTR_]

had the same problem man i used cable ties and tied them around my spark plug leads really tight. Doing this did solve my problem but if you notice oil coming out of your bov or it continues take it to someone because i just left it and i ended up destroying my bottom end .

[BeEnAr]

Next question hahaha you thought it was over!!

I am unsure if I have Z32 AFM's or not. I have spent the last 3 hours searching and getting info etc. but I have something a bit strange...

Both my AFM's have orange stickers, so you would assume they are Z32 items, however, the part numbers are different to what is stated on these forums.

It should read 22680-30P00 A36-000 N62 for Z32.

Mine is 22680-05U00 A36-000-J70

Standard is 22680-02U00

Now I'm confused as to what I have

Ideas??

[BeEnAr]

All fixed Finally!!!!! After running diagnostics again, and lots of other things I pulled the tops off the AFMs and re-soldered the points. PROBLEM IS NOW KAPUT, GONE, FINITO!!

Now I am waiting for my NIStune to come