Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am in a bad situation with my car at the moment and I am hoping someone can offer any advice.

I was rear ended but thankfully I have full insurance where I am going through a no-fault claim.

My car is valued at $48,000 but that value increased to $52,000 due to an audio system.

The original quote for the damage was $12,000

The assessor said it will likely go up to $20,000.

The workshop ordered in parts which are now at Nissan, such as panels a new rear strut and a crossmember.

Today I had my mechanic look it at from under a hoist which revealed more damage, no-one had used a hoist on it yet, the workshop and assessor just looked underneath it while the car was on the ground.

Well my mechanic said its easily $30,000 in damage and he has no doubt its a write off.

I am very fussy with my car and at this point I have big doubts it will be fixed properly atleast economically.

Now my worry is that because the parts have been ordered does this mean I wont be able to have it written off, or is $30,000 damage of $50,000 value not enough?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238916-accident-problems/
Share on other sites

Sorry to hear your story mate, that really sux u know what!!

The value of your car, Is that $52k the "AGREED" value or did you come up with that yourself?

Sorry I can't be more help but I know that info will be relevant.. Good luck with the outcome.

What was the extra $30k damage that your mechanic has said about?

I believe if the cost of the repair is more than 60% of the value of the car, then the insurance company consider it a write off.

You should call your insurance company and tell them what your mechanic has told you.

You need to get the assessor back out and have the mechanic point out the damage they haven't seen. Parts ordered or not they have to return your car to it's original condition or pay you out. That is their issue for not assessing the damage correctly in the first place.

The magic word to use with insurance assessors is "safe". As in "are you sure that crack there will be safe after the repairs and over the following years?" etc. They are in the business of managing risk and if it has been pointed out to them their liability is very clear if they don't repair it and something breaks, they won't take that chance.

actually I was just reading your post again. Is your mechanic the panel beater who is repairing it? If so that gets a bit trickier.

The panel beater checks the car, gets prices on parts adds labour and provides the quote to the assessor.

The assessor reviews the quote and approves it (well, mostly they knock back 20-50% of the quote as not needing to be done). Shonky but thats how it works. Even worse some of them get paid direct comissions for how much they take off the quote.

Panel beater starts the repair, and if they have missed something they can apply to the insurance company to add it. Not exactly sure how this process works.

Now this process is all transparent to you....you just get your car back after all that. But if the mechanic is the panel beater and a mate of yours, the insurance company might screw him.

BTW you have every right to be fussy. They get away with poor quality repair 80% of the time because the owner doesnt know any better, and assumes that everything is right. NOT TRUE! Get it checked by a third party after the repair and force them to fix anything that comes up in that report.

$52k is the agreed value on my policy which I negotiated.

Don't know where my mechanic got the extra amount from but he was looking in the suspension saying it seems as though I got hit at 80km/h. Although the impact was about 30-40km/h. There is also undercarriage damage from my car bottoming out on a speed hump when I got hit but to me it looks relatively minor compared to the boot.

The mechanic isn't the panel beater.

It was impossible to do a proper quote without taking apart the car because of all the possible structural damage under the panels.

I had asked the assessor about how a write off would work but I didnt quiet understand it, he said something about the current value of the car and he says at the moment its not even worth $20k, so I am guessing for it to be a write off the damage bill would have to be $35-40k.

Edited by MaFi0s02

Are you officially on an "Agreed Value" policy? It seems you are!

Knowing what you've said now and Duncan is correct too with his feedback, I can only assume that you'll get the whole lot back and not have to pay excess either, since you are 'not-at-fault' - so long as you are on "Agreed Value"

To elaborate on Duncan's Q, quite a few panelbeaters are mechanics c.f. not many mechanics are panelbeaters. They interact.

So if your panelbeater is informed of the extra damage underneath, he can annex an extra cost component, which looks like taking your car into a 'write-off' situation.

If so, BTW, would you want to buy the car back from the insurance company at auction?

I know it's 1st things 1st...

Tez

Are you officially on an "Agreed Value" policy? It seems you are!

Knowing what you've said now and Duncan is correct too with his feedback, I can only assume that you'll get the whole lot back and not have to pay excess either, since you are 'not-at-fault' - so long as you are on "Agreed Value"

To elaborate on Duncan's Q, quite a few panelbeaters are mechanics c.f. not many mechanics are panelbeaters. They interact.

So if your panelbeater is informed of the extra damage underneath, he can annex an extra cost component, which looks like taking your car into a 'write-off' situation.

If so, BTW, would you want to buy the car back from the insurance company at auction?

I know it's 1st things 1st...

Tez

I am on agreed value officially.

They made it clear to me early on that I dont have any excess to pay.

The panel beater at the workshop is a mechanic aswell. I dont think my mechanic is a panel beater.

I wouldnt want to buy my car back but I would like to salvage the audio install components such as dynamat etc

Edited by MaFi0s02
I am on agreed value officially.

They made it clear to me early on that I dont have any excess to pay.

The panel beater at the workshop is a mechanic aswell. I dont think my mechanic is a panel beater.

I wouldnt want to buy my car back but I would like to salvage the audio install components such as dynamat etc

Are you dreaming (and only dreaming) of what you'd like to buy next?

Tez

Are you dreaming (and only dreaming) of what you'd like to buy next?

Tez

Nope, I am still stressing about worst case scenario and how much money I have lost(2-5grand depending on outcome). I didn't even have the car for a month, and I was only taking it out on weekends and I have never made a claim with insurance ever.

Nope, I am still stressing about worst case scenario and how much money I have lost(2-5grand depending on outcome). I didn't even have the car for a month, and I was only taking it out on weekends and I have never made a claim with insurance ever.

Sorry to hear that! You'd still be in the 'thrilled to get it' stage. One month jeez.

You've suffered no neck/spine/head injury?

Can I ask what kind of car it is (-not was) & what hit you? No need to answer if you don't want to... I underrstand eh?

Get another quote from somewhere totally different and ask them to be very thorougher and to get all replacement parts costs genuine nissan rrp. I say this because if it is repaired it will never be the same, it's far better to be a write off and get paid out.

Probably do justice to ask people in the know who's the most expensive around your area so it can be classified as a write off. damage 80% and above of agreed value is a write off.

It is out of my hands, I have tried getting it done at the most expensive place(not to have it written off but just to get a top job done on it), very long story short I couldn't, too much politics(my car isnt a BMW, Merc or Bentley).

All parts are being replaced with new genuine Nissan parts, such quarter panel, part of the chassis rail etc etc.

I know they arnt paying RRP though.

I doubt it will total 80% of the agreed value.

I dont think I have a choice but to keep the car.

All I can do now is make sure everything is done correctly, I wanna get it checked independently once its all done, is there a place that can check the chassis alignment with lasers?

Edited by MaFi0s02

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
    • It's about time I start work on my sun tan. So I knocked up a few parts that will all combine together to become my new power steering reservoir. Now just to produce an abundance of UV and IR rays while melting a heap of bits of alu to become one... Well, that's after I put one more hole in it for the return line to plumb to. It likely won't be this weekend, as Sunday I'm meant to be in doing some last minute stuff to the AMG race car, and the weekend after will be filled with non my Skyline stuff, followed by Bathurst 6 hour. So I don't expect to get to melt metal for at least 3 weeks.   I also managed to stuff up and start cutting the hole for the res to pump pipe on the wrong side of the line... It means instead of the lines being nice and tight against the inner guard, they'll be out off the guard.    The size of it means I should end up with about 1.8L of power steering fluid, and still have space for another half a litre before it reaches the overflow/breather. This is wayyyyyyy more capacity than factory, which should help keep Powersteer oil temps lower, and the design hopefully allows it to prevent any aerated oil being able to makes its way down to the bottom as it'll have a couple of baffles and some hopeful trickery to force air bubbles away from the bottom.
×
×
  • Create New...