Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am in a bad situation with my car at the moment and I am hoping someone can offer any advice.

I was rear ended but thankfully I have full insurance where I am going through a no-fault claim.

My car is valued at $48,000 but that value increased to $52,000 due to an audio system.

The original quote for the damage was $12,000

The assessor said it will likely go up to $20,000.

The workshop ordered in parts which are now at Nissan, such as panels a new rear strut and a crossmember.

Today I had my mechanic look it at from under a hoist which revealed more damage, no-one had used a hoist on it yet, the workshop and assessor just looked underneath it while the car was on the ground.

Well my mechanic said its easily $30,000 in damage and he has no doubt its a write off.

I am very fussy with my car and at this point I have big doubts it will be fixed properly atleast economically.

Now my worry is that because the parts have been ordered does this mean I wont be able to have it written off, or is $30,000 damage of $50,000 value not enough?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238916-accident-problems/
Share on other sites

Sorry to hear your story mate, that really sux u know what!!

The value of your car, Is that $52k the "AGREED" value or did you come up with that yourself?

Sorry I can't be more help but I know that info will be relevant.. Good luck with the outcome.

What was the extra $30k damage that your mechanic has said about?

I believe if the cost of the repair is more than 60% of the value of the car, then the insurance company consider it a write off.

You should call your insurance company and tell them what your mechanic has told you.

You need to get the assessor back out and have the mechanic point out the damage they haven't seen. Parts ordered or not they have to return your car to it's original condition or pay you out. That is their issue for not assessing the damage correctly in the first place.

The magic word to use with insurance assessors is "safe". As in "are you sure that crack there will be safe after the repairs and over the following years?" etc. They are in the business of managing risk and if it has been pointed out to them their liability is very clear if they don't repair it and something breaks, they won't take that chance.

actually I was just reading your post again. Is your mechanic the panel beater who is repairing it? If so that gets a bit trickier.

The panel beater checks the car, gets prices on parts adds labour and provides the quote to the assessor.

The assessor reviews the quote and approves it (well, mostly they knock back 20-50% of the quote as not needing to be done). Shonky but thats how it works. Even worse some of them get paid direct comissions for how much they take off the quote.

Panel beater starts the repair, and if they have missed something they can apply to the insurance company to add it. Not exactly sure how this process works.

Now this process is all transparent to you....you just get your car back after all that. But if the mechanic is the panel beater and a mate of yours, the insurance company might screw him.

BTW you have every right to be fussy. They get away with poor quality repair 80% of the time because the owner doesnt know any better, and assumes that everything is right. NOT TRUE! Get it checked by a third party after the repair and force them to fix anything that comes up in that report.

$52k is the agreed value on my policy which I negotiated.

Don't know where my mechanic got the extra amount from but he was looking in the suspension saying it seems as though I got hit at 80km/h. Although the impact was about 30-40km/h. There is also undercarriage damage from my car bottoming out on a speed hump when I got hit but to me it looks relatively minor compared to the boot.

The mechanic isn't the panel beater.

It was impossible to do a proper quote without taking apart the car because of all the possible structural damage under the panels.

I had asked the assessor about how a write off would work but I didnt quiet understand it, he said something about the current value of the car and he says at the moment its not even worth $20k, so I am guessing for it to be a write off the damage bill would have to be $35-40k.

Edited by MaFi0s02

Are you officially on an "Agreed Value" policy? It seems you are!

Knowing what you've said now and Duncan is correct too with his feedback, I can only assume that you'll get the whole lot back and not have to pay excess either, since you are 'not-at-fault' - so long as you are on "Agreed Value"

To elaborate on Duncan's Q, quite a few panelbeaters are mechanics c.f. not many mechanics are panelbeaters. They interact.

So if your panelbeater is informed of the extra damage underneath, he can annex an extra cost component, which looks like taking your car into a 'write-off' situation.

If so, BTW, would you want to buy the car back from the insurance company at auction?

I know it's 1st things 1st...

Tez

  Terry_GT-R34 said:
Are you officially on an "Agreed Value" policy? It seems you are!

Knowing what you've said now and Duncan is correct too with his feedback, I can only assume that you'll get the whole lot back and not have to pay excess either, since you are 'not-at-fault' - so long as you are on "Agreed Value"

To elaborate on Duncan's Q, quite a few panelbeaters are mechanics c.f. not many mechanics are panelbeaters. They interact.

So if your panelbeater is informed of the extra damage underneath, he can annex an extra cost component, which looks like taking your car into a 'write-off' situation.

If so, BTW, would you want to buy the car back from the insurance company at auction?

I know it's 1st things 1st...

Tez

I am on agreed value officially.

They made it clear to me early on that I dont have any excess to pay.

The panel beater at the workshop is a mechanic aswell. I dont think my mechanic is a panel beater.

I wouldnt want to buy my car back but I would like to salvage the audio install components such as dynamat etc

Edited by MaFi0s02
  MaFi0s02 said:
I am on agreed value officially.

They made it clear to me early on that I dont have any excess to pay.

The panel beater at the workshop is a mechanic aswell. I dont think my mechanic is a panel beater.

I wouldnt want to buy my car back but I would like to salvage the audio install components such as dynamat etc

Are you dreaming (and only dreaming) of what you'd like to buy next?

Tez

  Terry_GT-R34 said:
Are you dreaming (and only dreaming) of what you'd like to buy next?

Tez

Nope, I am still stressing about worst case scenario and how much money I have lost(2-5grand depending on outcome). I didn't even have the car for a month, and I was only taking it out on weekends and I have never made a claim with insurance ever.

  MaFi0s02 said:
Nope, I am still stressing about worst case scenario and how much money I have lost(2-5grand depending on outcome). I didn't even have the car for a month, and I was only taking it out on weekends and I have never made a claim with insurance ever.

Sorry to hear that! You'd still be in the 'thrilled to get it' stage. One month jeez.

You've suffered no neck/spine/head injury?

Can I ask what kind of car it is (-not was) & what hit you? No need to answer if you don't want to... I underrstand eh?

Get another quote from somewhere totally different and ask them to be very thorougher and to get all replacement parts costs genuine nissan rrp. I say this because if it is repaired it will never be the same, it's far better to be a write off and get paid out.

Probably do justice to ask people in the know who's the most expensive around your area so it can be classified as a write off. damage 80% and above of agreed value is a write off.

It is out of my hands, I have tried getting it done at the most expensive place(not to have it written off but just to get a top job done on it), very long story short I couldn't, too much politics(my car isnt a BMW, Merc or Bentley).

All parts are being replaced with new genuine Nissan parts, such quarter panel, part of the chassis rail etc etc.

I know they arnt paying RRP though.

I doubt it will total 80% of the agreed value.

I dont think I have a choice but to keep the car.

All I can do now is make sure everything is done correctly, I wanna get it checked independently once its all done, is there a place that can check the chassis alignment with lasers?

Edited by MaFi0s02

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome Jan, It's very likely that you are in over your head. You'll just have to learn to swim hard and fast! These old rust buckets have more ways to bankrupt us than almost any other car. But hopefully there's nothing wrong that ruins the whole show! We can help a fair bit. There's plenty here who've been fixing these things for >25 years. cheers
    • Hi all. First off, thanks for reading my post. So end of last season I put the car away knowing I was leaking at least two fluids. One of them being rear turbo's oil. I went to my car recently that is waiting in a garage to take a peek with my boroscope to try and see if I can narrow down the souce of oil before taking it out of storage. What I found is not so great I think. The rear turbo is (probably) leaking from the oil drain. The hose and it's clamps are probably the original ones, so most likely just worn out or loose. However I spotted a line of rust going straight down from the turbo oil feed, as if water leaked out of there at some point. Also explains the red liquid that was dripping from my front subframe, which I initially thought was power steering. I can even see coolant drops hanging off the side of the oil pan as well. After a quick hit on the web I found a select few discussions about porous engine blocks. My question is if the pics of the turbo oil feed and the left hand side of the block (imgur link below) looks like it could be exactly that to you. Maybe someone in the community has seen it before and knows what it looks like. If it actually is a porously leaking block, has anyone attempted at fixing it with simple methods like putting a sealer in the cooling system and using something like jb weld on the block surface, or will it just leak in 2 weeks again? I could not find any detailed info or pictures on this topic. If I need a new engine, tell me softly. https://imgur.com/a/knVvmZ8
    • Hey all. I'm 23 and from Germany, September last year I bought a mildly modded 1995 GTR Vspec. Looks great and was fun so far, but I already have a list of issues of various severity that I need to take care of, potentially growing longer the closer I look. I just hope I'm not in over my head, I really want to keep the car and work towards it becoming great. I hope y'all will help me out in getting there, I am positive I will need help sooner rather than later to figure out how to proceed. greetings, some pics of the car I posted to imgur. https://imgur.com/a/StKkabz
    • Would be interesting what the price would be without the barracuda wheels. Looks like he dropped it down to 40k. Maybe his mate wasn't correct about the 50k evaluation. Has always been a dream of mine to own an auto 33. Looks like I'll have to keep saving my pocket money or ask mum for more pocket money.
    • Thinking about importing a stagea as a family car since i’m getting married this year, thoughts? Me and my fiance both like stageas, but don’t have any experience with them
×
×
  • Create New...